Nodi in Thrace

This are some of the first sport routes in Avantas.There were opend because the rock is the closer to Alexandroupoli,15 min by car and i was sick of traveling 40 kilomiters to Strimi...

This route is the last of the six...and the name means hollow y. The first two bolts are common with the route 33kilos and the route goes to the left.

33 rock fell until the route was clean...1 kilogram each one at least.The first two bolts are common with the route (koufi) and the route goes to the right.

A very narrow crack route (Στενη).The first 3 bolts are the same with the route Bella gav, after that the route goes up not to the left.

In the memory of my dog. The first route on this rock made easy for the new climbers...

Really the ants route.

Beautiful crack climb. The route is named after a good girl frends dog (Αχιλλεας) thats why there is a (woof) in the name.

Santosha : 5c

At the Main Wall there are 13 clean trad routes. The Trad routes are 100 to 160m. high and the belays are on trees or on pitons, also threre are some pitons on routes.

Difficult to protect route with many vegatation at the first pitch (1 golo + 1 piton). Traversing right after the 2nd pitch. At the 3rd pitch and after some balancies moves take the right groove.

Bad, loose, full of vegetation at the 1st pitch. Then follow the route "Περιφερειάρχης".

The first ascenders as well as at the first free ascent, the climbers start in the small cave climbing the fig tree. Later a variant was opened on the left, directly on the wall which is the normal start now. The second pitch scramble downard right until the big tree. Then there are 3 variations with the middle (fist crack V) which is the most beautiful. Many ascents and some pitons in place.

Start from the route "Περιφερειάρχης" until the ledge, then follow the route "Ρασταφαρι" for some meters and then go left.

Very beautiful route. Difficulty route but with good protection at the hard moves. The first and the 3rd pitches are the crux. From the upper ledge follow what you want. Free at VII+ / VIII-. some pitons in place and a bolt at the 2nd belay. You can connect the route with the tower in front and descent it by small rappel (VI few pitons).

Follow the left characteristic dihedral at the left middle ledge. Many pitons. At the crux of the 1st pitch there is a golo but don't trash it. There is another one crux after the belay at the 2nd pitch.

There are 3 small variations at the 3rd pitch. The right is the hardest at VI-. At the exit pitch goes direct up at VI+

To the left of the route "Οβελίας".

Nice route with the normal loose rocks. When the dihedral goes harder turn right.

Characteristic route at the east side of the Great Wall. Nice hard moves with good protection at the 3rd pitch. The crux is at the exit of the overhanging chimney. There is a right variation at the 3rd pitch which avoid the chimney.

Mostly scrambling with some steep steps.

As the previus route. Not really climb

This secton of the rock is the best for hot summer days because it is almost always shady.

The names meaning is: healthy mind. A name my mother chose.

It is the extension of the route Nous Igiis.

The names meaning is :loos rock y. When you climbe it you will unerstand.

It is the first sport route here 30m high. In memory of my father.

The names meaning is 7 twentys. Seven friends gave 20 euros each for bolts to make this routes.

The names translation is :small bat. One is living in one of the hold holes... good luck.

That route was opened during quarantine of covid-19.

When opening this route strong winds were blowing in the area.I named the route by the name of the God of Wind in exchange for him to stop blowing.

The characteristic groove facing the sector.

Follow the natural traversing right line to avoid the loose rocks.

The direct variation of the route "Traversing - Τραβερσάρωντας" .The name is in latin meaning (mine and yours).

She was the Muse of hymns or chants sung in honor of gods and heroes and that is the name of my niece.

The left route facing the sector.

The right route facing the Sector. Same belay with the route "Tou Mikroutsikou 1 / Του Μικρουτσικου 1" on two bolts with rings.

Small sweat cave with 6 hard routes

Nice steep climb on jugs.

The beautifull Tower behing the church. There are 2 routes but many possibilities for some other new one.

Some old pitons in place and some hand drilled bolt at the second pitch. At the north side of the Tower.

Sport route , the only you need is 14 quickdraws. There are bolts and some pitons in place. It's better to join the first 2 pithes and the 4th with the 5th.

The route (Alexander the Great) has tree pitches : First has 12 bolts 25m at 6b. Second has 12 bolts 25m at 6b and the third pitche has 8 bolts 20m at 6a. There is a path down from the top and you can also rappel down with two 70 meters long ropes BUT BE CAREFULL TO RAPPEL EXACTLY THE SAME WAY YOU CLIMBED because of LOOSE ROCKS.

The route (Bad Russian) has the same anchor and the same three top bolts with the route (ΝΕΣΤΟΣ) on the right of it.

Nestos is a river in Greece and the nickname of my grandfather in the army.

RAFFLES : 6a. TOWER RIGHT SECTOR

TOWER RIGHT SECTOR . Δευκαλιωνας 6a. Αφου επεζησε του καταλυσμου με την γυναικα του Πυρρα ζητησε παρεα... ο Διας του ειπε να πεταξει πετρες πισω του χωρις να κοιταει και αυτες εγιναν αντρες. Ο γιος τους Ελληνας ειναι ο πρωτος του Ελληνικου γενους. Μοιραζετε το ιδιο ρελε με την Πυρρα. Devkalionas is the name of the one that survived the great flood with his wife Pirra. Wanting company Zeus told him to throw stones behind his back which became men. There son was the first Greek. The route has the same anchor with the route Pirra.

TOWER RIGHT SECTOR. Αφου επεζησε του καταλυσμου με τον αντρα της τον Δευκαλιωνα η Πυρρα ζητησε παρεα... ο Διας της ειπε να πεταξει πετρες πισω της χωρις να κοιταει και αυτες εγιναν γυναικες. Ο γιος τους Ελληνας ειναι ο πρωτος του Ελληνικου γενους. Μοιραζετε το ιδιο ρελε με την διαδρομη Δευκαλιωνας. Pirra is the name of the woman of Devkalionas how survived the great flood. Wanting company Zeus told her to throw stones behind her back which became women. There son was the first Greek. The route has the same anchor with the route Devkalionas .

TOWER OF THE SUN (ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΗΛΙΟΥ) Climbing routes for the cold winter days. For more photos visit as at https://www.facebook.com/alex.polis.climbing.heroes

Tony Tripokaridos (a)5a and (b)6a (in the memory of gone frend). Both routes have the same bolts and anchor, (a) is on the left of the bolts in the crack and climbing (b) you dont enter the crack.

The Olive tree (Της Ελιας).

The nickname of my cousin.

This route was given to the Sun God ΑPOLLO for maiking the rock warm.

The nickname of a friend.

Many blocks in a river bed that has dried up during drought.

Maronia is a boulder area in the north-east of Greece, close to the border with Turkey. The first boulders here were opened by local climbers. In spring 2005 we visited the area with our Greek friends Stelios and Marina and explored a part of the area. The boulders are spread at some big hills. There is a big potential for first ascents but the granite is covered with lichen and not everywhere of good quality. Opening new problems requires extensive cleaning. The boulder are lying in a wonderful quit landscape close to the sea. At the end of the gravel-road at Marmaritsa you can walk down to small beaches where you find also possibilities to camp. The boulders are on an archaeological site, so it's officially forbidden to camp there. Also digging for old remains can be very expensive. -Karsten Oelze

There is a lot of potential in this area.

Guidebook by GEBRO publishing. Excerpt. Unfortunately sold out. If you need more information about this guide contact Herr Jaro

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