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Landslide Cliffs

  • Contesto grado: US
  • Ascensioni: 5

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

Trad cliff surprisingly close to town, though it's a steep walk. Wild exposure with the river directly below.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Sethan

Be mindful of the locals, don't disturb grazing flocks and check before camping.

Avvicinamento

From the village, head down the hill keeping the landslide on your right. After about half an hour you'll reach the top of the cliff, hopefully identifiable from the photos. You can head to the right (facing out) to spot the cliff and check abseil line positioning.

Fix your abseil line to the larger of the pair of trees and abseil in, being wary of the loose soil on top. Best to place gear and brush holds on the way in, and consider hanging a sling over the edge to avoid having to wade through dirt.

25m to start of upper climbs (substantial ledge with a corner on the left), 60m to start of lower lines. For upper climbs, build an anchor with #4 cam, #0.75 cam and medium wire.

Vie

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Grado Via

From the ledge, start as for "Second Wife" but after gaining the next ledge follow crack up to the left. When this all starts to look a bit vegetated, sidle around to the right into an alcove. Take the crack line up until you can pull onto the bulge on the left, bridge off the tree, collapse in relief.

FFA: Anthony Cuskelly & Tommathy swift, 20 Mag 2023

Named for a friend's adventures. From the halfway ledge, take the corner on the left then roughly straight up. Follow the big layback crack and mount the block on the left. Hopefully you left a sling over the edge so you don't have to wade through dirt to top out.

Rack: Take 2x #4 (one for the anchor), 2x #3, singles down to #0.3, a set of wires and plenty of draws. FA done on preplaced gear.

FFA: Anthony Cuskelly, Arjun Reddy & Amrit Appaden, 17 Mag 2023

From the belay ledge, either head directly right (with difficulty) into the crack, or straight up for a couple of metres (with difficulty) then make a tricky transition into the right crack).

Open project. Worst of the loose rock has been cleaned.

Abseil all the way to the ledge below the old vulture nest (60m from top).

Flake, corner, off width, don't disturb the flying Squirrel, weird slabby chimney, collapse on belay ledge. Climb one of the other pitches to get out.

Take some big gear (possibly multiple #5 cams). Open project, grade is best estimate.

A right option also looks possible by traversing right before the crux, but has not been attempted.

FA: Arjun Reddy, 17 Mag 2023

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Lun 22 Mag
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