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Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Main Dome - Right-Side Wall
5.9 X Chute De Sexo

Runs close to the right of Simple Monkey Day.

Per the older topos, Chute the Sexo runs slightly to the right and closer to ‘Dodda Gully’, which is the massive gash you see on the right-side wall of the south facing dome. And the Small Gully or ‘Sunna Gully’ ) is the dark gash that you see to further right.

What is agreed however is that KV Mohana has a hand or leg or both in both these ascents.

Trad 400m, 6
Banyan Tree Pillar, Hotanagudda, Savandurga South Face, Banyan Tree Pillar
5.9 Louvre
1 5.9
2 5.7

A local classic, and a fine intermediate crack line. The continuous fist to finger crack runs for about 180 feet, with a large ficus tree growing out of the rock, exactly at the middle of the route.

Gear: A set of nuts, cams up to #3 (doubles of #0.3 through #1), 70-meter rope, and a dozen alpine draws, and anchor gear.

To get to the Base: If you are hiking up the goat trail towards the BT Pillar, veer left, just as you get about 10 feet to the base, as the trail forks. The trail goes through overgrown undergrowth, over a pile of rocks and finally requires an eight- foot jump from a boulder to a platform. The ground gives away on either sides of the boulder and the platform for about 20-30 feet, so could be a bit hairy for some folks.

P1: 5.9+. 30-35 meters.

Hand crack that narrows down to finger crack, and eventually to a seam. Considering that the left side of the rock overlaps the right side, requires either awkward jamming or laybacking for considerable distance. The first 10-15 meters is the crux, a bit of pump-fest, but well protected.

The crux for us locals is the finger crack section, about 20 meters from the base. If your finger crack technique is solid, no sweat. Note: The cheat here for the new leaders is using a root growing out of the crack. Here’s a bit of a tradition; if you are following, avoid using the root! Leave it for new leaders on this route, if they need it in desperation. The finger lock works just fine. The root seems become fragile after a couple of people have used it on a single day.

The first pitch of Louvre can consume eight-11 placements for most intermediate climbers.

P2: 5.7. 30-35 meters.

Fist crack mostly, and extremely enjoyable and very airy finish to a classic climb. Two sections of 5.7 cruces. •D

The route was initially explored by Philip Coquard, Dominic Danard and Dini (1989), but eventual full route FA was by Mohit Oberoi (1990).

Sconosciuto 2, 70
Banyan Tree Pillar, Hotanagudda, Savandurga West Face, Banyan Tree Pillar
5.9 Idli Grinder

Located exactly below the rap off station, the nasty looking off width with a name that is self-explanatory.

FA: Mohit Oberoi, Kanhai Dutta, Gani & Dinesh Kaigonhalli

Sconosciuto 20m
5.9 Unnamed

About 30 feet to the left of the base of the rap station, you would find this route, going up amidst large pockets. Seasonally the pockets have bird nests. Avoid climbing, if you find birds nesting.

Four bolts and no top anchor station. At some point, a top anchor station needs to be established.

Sconosciuto 15m, 4
5.9 Lines & Curves

Around the corner from Unnamed. Starts on a short boulder. The first bolt can be a bit runout.

*No top anchors.

Sconosciuto 15m, 3

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