Aiuto

Céim

  • Contesto grado: UK
  • Ascensioni: 2

Stagionalità

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Sommario

A small but worthwhile crag on the east side of the valley in an attractive wooded setting. Plenty of interest for the HVS climber.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

Avvicinamento

About a mile up the road from Kates, there is a path to the left which leads to the river Loe (this is the river flowing out of the Black Lake). Cross the stepping stones and follow the path up to the old house. Go straight past the house and down into a small valley where the crag is situated (100 metres from the house). Céim is very sheltered from the wind and the rain and due to the fact that it is overhanging in places some routes remain dry on wet days.

Etica ereditato da Gap of Dunloe

A good relationship between climbers and locals is essential. Please do not litter in the Gap. Bring home whatever you bring with you, including fruit peels, climbing tape and cigarette butts.

Vie

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Grado Via

The true line that cuffs crap starts up. Instead of escaping right into the corner system with the tree stump, continue leftwards to climb the intimidating overhanging v-groove which is easier than it looks. Excellent protection. (Direct: Climb the white wall and overhang direct on positive side pulls. Bold start. E1 5b B. Hall, J. Hale)

FA: B. Hall & D. Dowling, 2012

Start under the overhanging corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the steps up to the corner (above the tree), finishing up the corner.

FA: M Shea & P. Cuff, 1985

The obvious line to the right of Cuff's Crap. Climb on good holds to a small overhang, surmount this and move slightly right, then climb over a bulge on the corner to the top

FA: R. Stack & I. Counihan, 1990

Start 1m right of The Black Stuff under a small white-stained overhang. Climb straight to the ledge, then up and step onto a small ledge. Move up and right to the top. VARIATION: Instead of moving right continue up the left-facing corner (VS 4c).

FA: D. Tagney & A. Forde, 1994

Start under a square block (about 3m up). Climb over this and continue straight up to the ledge. Finish as for Miss Piggy. Poor protection.

FA: M Shea & C. Corrigan, 1990

Start 1m left of the arete left of Miss Piggy. Climb to the overhang (good wire around corner on right) and straight to the top.

FA: R. Stack & G.Stack, 1990

Climb the obvious corner (left of Titanic) to the ledge, then traverse left for 1.5m and climb the obvious crack to the top.

FA: R. Stack & Rob Stack, 1989

Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.

FA: B. McSweeney, E. Kennedy & O. O’Regan, 2003

Boulder start off the horizontal crack of A7. Reach diagonally up left to a horizontal hold, then straight to top via good crimps. Protection is small aliens and red HB offset brassie, all good.

FA: D. O’Toole, 2001

Short but steep. Climb the hand crack on the right hand side of the crag.

FA: P. Cuff., M Shea & P. Cuff, 1985

Climb the thin line 2-3m to the right of Titanic.

FA: R. Stack & P. Costelloe, 1991

Questa falesia non è localizzata

Se sai dove si trova questa falesia dedica un minuto a localizzarla per la comunità. contattaci se incontri qualsiasi problema.

Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: David Flanagan

Data: 2014

ISBN: 9780956787422

A selective guidebook describing the very best traditional rock climbing to be found in Ireland, covering over 400 classic routes in some of Ireland’s wildest, most beautiful coastal and mountain areas.

Autore/i: David Flanagan

Data: 2013

ISBN: 9780956787439

A comprehensive guidebook describing every major and minor bouldering area found in Ireland, covering over 1,700 boulder problems from Font 3 to Font 8b+.

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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