Vie in Gruppo del Catinaccio

Take path no. 542 from Rifugio Re Alberto (some short aided sections). Go to the base of the Towers and go up the gully/couloir that divides the Torre Piaz from Torre Delago. Climb until you reach a small platform at the saddle between the two towers. This is where you start the route (40 m, I/II, 1 piton + cemented ring).

1st pitch: Climb vertically until you reach a mini-cave and pass it on the left (piton), and continue along a vertical stretch of whitish rock (nail). Move to the right for a few meters, then return to the left until you reach the edge of the corner where you stop. (30 m, IV+, 3 pitons)

2nd pitch: The most beautiful point of the route. Belay stance, go around the corner to the left, looking out over the valley below in an impressive way. Climb the vertical arete (piton) on small and somewhat polished holds. After about ten meters, return to the right of the arete. Scramble up some easy blocks you reach a small ledge. Follow a not-so obvious crack above it until you reach a ledge with the belay stance. (30m, IV, 3 pitons)

3rd pitch: Climb the dihedral staying just to the right of the arete (2 close pitons). Then, a leaning ramp leads to a small ledge where the belay is located. (25 m, IV, 2 pitons, lots of fixed slings)

4th pitch: Go diagonally to the right, following bladey bits of rock. Go up a whitish slab, up through a chimney until you reach the easy ridge that leads to the summit. You can divide the pitch by stopping before the white slab. (50m, IV, 1 piton)

Descent: The main abseil descent is on the the north-east face, possible to merge abseils with double ropes.

1. 33m, vertically in the notch between the Delago and Stabeler towers up to a huge boulder wedged between the two towers;

2. 20m, descending into the canal, spectacular double with stretches in the void, ring on Torre Delago;

3. 20m, descending again along the narrow channel there is a ring on the Stabeler Tower;

4. 20m, still in the canal, approaching the base of the Stabeler tower, the ring is located on a comfortable terrace.

5. 30m, down to the ground.

From here, follow the trail back down to Rifugio Re Alberto.

1. Scramble up the grey blocky rocks to the base of the crack. Clip the cemented piton anchor. Follow the crack, interrupted by small overhangs, up to the belay (3 pitons). (35 m, V)

2. Diagonally to the left, then up to the dihedral/gully that you follow until an overhang forces you to move slightly to the right. Follow the short dihedral that ends on a ledge with the belay (2 bolts, chain & ring). (30m, IV-)

3. Reach the dihedral to the left of the belay and follow it. At its end, a gully leads to a ledge with a small cave. Move a little to the right to the belay (2 bolts). (25m, IV+)

4. Climb directly above the cave, following the crack on the left. (2 pitons). (20m, V)

5. Follow the dihedral gully up to the saddle. Along the ridgeline you reach the top of Torre Stabeler with the anchor (cemented piton). (40m, IV)

1. The original route starts further to the left and climbs diagonally to the right (III+). (40m, III+)

2. Diagonally to the left, then up to the dihedral/gully that you follow until an overhang forces you to move slightly to the right. Follow the short dihedral that ends on a ledge with the belay (2 bolts, chain & ring). (30m, IV-)

3. Reach the dihedral to the left of the belay and follow it. At its end, a gully leads to a ledge with a small cave. Move a little to the right to the belay (2 bolts). (25m, IV+)

4. Watch out for rope drag! Go to the right of the overhang formed by the cave, up the easy crack to the wide ledge, then traverse to the left to reach the dihedral, which you follow briefly to the belay (2 pitons). (30m, IV-)

5. Follow the dihedral gully up to the saddle. Along the ridgeline you reach the top of Torre Stabeler with the anchor (cemented piton). (40m, IV)

1. overcome the overhang above the belay, then continue on simpler rocks in a slight oblique to the right up to the belay (glue in bolts x2 and ring). (25m, IV, 1 piton, 1 bolt)

2. Diagonal to the right in the direction of a black corner that you follow for a few meters. Traverse the slab to the left, bypassing a yellow overhang and climb up to the comfortable belay at the base of the overhanging yellow wall (glue in bolts x2 and ring OR old belay on 3 pitons). (25m, IV+)

3. Climb the dihedral above the belay until below the overhang; traverse for about 2 meters to the right and pass it. Above this, follow some easier blocks to the anchor (glue-in bolts x2 + ring). (30m, V+/IV A0, 12 pitons, some dodgy).

4. Climb the slab (unprotected) aiming for the obvious left slanting chimney at the end, which goes to the belay (2 bolts + chain). (35m, V+, 8 pitons, 1 intermediate anchor)

Erforderliche Ausrüstung: NAA und ein ganzer Satz Stopper und Friends Nr. 2,5-3.

1. Often climbed unroped: look for the easiest way to the base of the chimney. A final, steeper ramp comes out at the belay (40 m, I/III).

2. Move to the right of the chimney, climbing a small wall with steps (piton & fixed sling). Then, go back to the left going out on a large ledge. There are two anchors, choose the anchor on the right. The left anchor is for the Via Normale for Torre Stabeler. (30 m, III-, 1 piton)

3. Follow the ledge to the right, which becomes narrower and more exposed (piton). Stop at the base of the obvious Winkler crack, which looks like a slightly bleak dihedral chimney (35m, II-, 1 piton).

4. Tackle the dihedral/chimney (piton), past the small overhang (piton and stuck cam). You reach an easier area, where you can continue in one of the two parallel chimneys (the one on the right is slightly easier). Continue up to a ledge with the anchor (25m, IV+) . NOTE: the crack can be avoided by up the slabs just to the right. Difficulty IV +, various pitons.

5. Climb the large chimney to the left of the belay. Before it becomes overhanging (intermediate anchor, better to ignore), traverse far to the right, fairly exposed, reaching a prow of rock. From here, cross to the left, stopping at the base of an overhang (40 m, III+, 2 pitons & fixed slings).

6. Move left as far as possible to overcome the short overhanging but easy chimney (2 pitons). Exit to the right and easily reach the saddle between the tower and headwall on the right with the anchor (15 m, IV).

7. Follow the stepped ridge to the left, overcoming some jumps thanks to good cracks. You pass anchor (better to ignore), and go up a nice reddish dihedral to the right of the arete. A last chimney leads to a small ledge with anchor. also for abseiling (40 m, IV).

8. Go around the last crest to the right, and reach the summit via an easy ridge, 1x belay bolt (15 m, II).

Cima Catanaccio (Rosengartenspitze), 2918m, VI-

German route description.

l´ultimo tiro é diventato piu semplice a causa del distacco della proboscide

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/TORRE%20EDWARDS_Gracchio_A.htm

Itinerario classico con arrampicata varia e divertenete possibilitá di uscita alla settima lunghezza

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/porteneigre/porteneigre.htm