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Beta figured out and then my fingers were bleeding. Real slab! Very important to use bad or non existing footholds and not step to high. Beta for me: At first crux at 4th bolt stay with left hand in undercling until left foot is in the middle good foothold under left hand, then move further into worse underclings. After moving all the way right: right hand up and left foot quite high to stand up. At second crux: both hands to undercling, left foot in the middle. Right foot very high on leftmost high foothold. Then go with left hand already to the ledge. Don't first stand up!
The start is a bit scary as it not protected and trying to get into the heart of the mountain was certainty a unique adventure I got lost in the chimney lol
Next time I'd probably do the corner crack variant
45aDa secondo
54cDa secondo
65cDa secondo
Beautiful and varied climbing
76aTrad
The crux move was hard, the corner crack is really thin and couldn't really get my fingers in there so aid it. There's loads of gear that has been sacrificed to the mountains gods on this pitch. The rope drag got to so bad at the end, make sure you climb on twin ropes and extend.
