Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.
Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.
Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.
Route
Traverse the ledge and scramble up
After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).
f5- wide crack about 50m.
50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney
40m f4 climb the ramp
traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.
Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.
Descent.
Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.
Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.
For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html
Topo: Howard guidebook #57.
1984 | Prima ascensione: |
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5a, 5a, 5a, 4, 3, 5 | Grado comunitario registrato |
4+ | ★★★Ali Hasan |
5- | ★★Ashley Moore |
5a | ★★★thomas puddy |
Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.
Overall quality 80 from 5 ratings.
Autore/i: Thierry Souchard
Data: 2017
ISBN: 9782952638876
A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.
Autore/i: Thierry Souchard
Data: 2017
This digital guidebook presents a selection of 26 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Almost all of the routes presented are trad. Of course, this style of climbing on trad gear requires us to be modest about route choices, but do not fear, the rock lends itself well to gear placements, especially along its beautiful, long crack systems. Other equally interesting routes, more in a mountaineering style, focus on route-finding rather than pure difficulty. These follow more or less along the lines of the famous Bedouin routes. These ‘extreme adventure treks’ discovered by the locals are the most aesthetic way, and undoubtedly the only true way, to explore the area. Some climbing routes included in this selection use Bedouin routes as descents, and two Bedouin routes that ascend to the summit of Jebel Rum are described in detail. Trad 6a/6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.
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