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Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
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Lukenya Main Face | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror
Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff. FA: Arthur Firmin & Evelyn Baring, 1936 | 60m | |||
Lukenya Eagle's Nest | |||||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Plunge
Start on tree to right of Hangover. Ascend wall and up to obvious cracked overhang. Climb this directly and exit on left. Up easily to belay on top of slab. FA: M. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1967 | 16m | |||
Lukenya The Cemetery | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★ Cemetery Corner
Start at base of crack at right-hand corner of slab where there is a prominent fault. Move left-handed under edge of overlapping slab. At left-hand point of overlap climb onto wall and move back right-handed to smooth wall and chimney. Back up over chockstone boulders to platform (root belay). Delicate move onto left-hand wall and traverse until wall can be climbed directly or a swing up can be made on small block. Move left- handed to finish. | 23m | |||
Lukenya Fig Tree | |||||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Le Pelley's Variation
Start at left end of overhang.
FA: R. Le Pelley, 1949 | 30m | |||
Hell's Gate Fischer's Tower | |||||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ East Rib
Start to the left of The Drudge, there is an obvious vertical staircase. (Arrow marks start). Climb up this for a bit until ledge is reached. Now traverse 10ft. and climb up flake to foot of steep wall. Belay here. Climb wall above (hard), and traverse 20 ft. to the left to foot of cracks. Climb crack over protruding rocks to ledge below summit. Up crack above to top. FA: Iain Allan & Peter Sutcliffe, 1966 | 37m | |||
Hell's Gate Springs Wall | |||||
{SA} 22 A2 | Infidel
First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs. FA: Alex Fiksman & Julian Wright, 2011 | 77m | |||
Frog Bookhouse Cliffs | |||||
12 | The Past
Unprotected for first 25'. Climb the centre of the large recessed grey slab to the horizontal break. Continue up slab above to top. Historic route number: 9 FA: Bill Budenberg & Nico Mmhaeiides, 1992 | ||||
Frog Forgotten Face | |||||
12 | Amnesia
This route climbs the first crack in the wall right of 'Frog Buttress'. Climb up to a wide bay where a crack runs diagonally left. G0 up and over the left end of the overhang. Historic route number: 24 FA: Barry & Nlall MacHugh, 1986 | ||||
Frog Target Buttress | |||||
12 | Desperate Dan
This route climbs the wide chimney to the right of 'Human Racing'. Historic route number: 58 FA: Geoff Broome & Niall MacHugh, 1986 |
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