Ascensioni in Malesia

3 pitch multipitch. Tried to dyno to the tufa on pitch 2. Literally don't see any other way to do it

4 pitches to avoid rope drag. Sketchy moves, polished footholds. Fun first pitch with a scary foot plant move just before the anchor.

Only made 1st two pitches. Anchor plate at the top of pitch two is seriously damaged, recommend bringing trad gear for extra security.

A four person, 8 pitch epic 14hrs bottom to top and down again. Bolted pitches are great climbing, after that it's a mad scramble of low grade trad leading over super sharp rock and scrub.

All day epic climb. Climbed the route as a team of 4. First four pitches: classic sport climbing. Pitch 1 & 2 strung together. The left bolt hanger of the anchor at pitch 3 is damaged, recommend bringing nat pro to reinforce. Pitch 4 the most technical with great moves over an overhanging stalactite. Higher pitches are Jungleneering: low-ish grade trad climbing (< French 5b) with lots of trees and sharp rock.

Longest climb ever, took me more then 10 hours to complete. 2nd pitch was hardest especially the traverse part.

p1 - went to rap station 5o'clock of anchor (shared w rock root). Should go to rock root. Hand jammed on crux!! Feels 6a.

p2 - natural line up glossy holds followed by rather sketchy right traverse. Anchors around the corner. Follow bolt line. Feels 6a+ / 6b. Esp. the traverse.

p3 - starting on stalactites (how to spell? lol) on left of pitch 2 anchors, follow bolt line up. Some bolts have surface rust but should be fine. Felt like short and physical 6a, but aik says it's a lil harder.

p4 - features exactly one bolt! Will need trad gear, around BD size 0.5 - 2 cams. The start has no bolt line, so we took the middle crack up over the overhanging block (might want to look out for loose blocks). Afterwards, there's an obvious (rather pretty) crack line (w 1 bolts) to a ledge, from where you'll spot the anchors. Lots of fun (but lil sharp) hand jams!!

Rap stations were well placed. Slight swinging as usual. We ended at p4 because it looked like ugly jungleneering from there onwards.

Nice route, love it.

1 fall trying to pass the tree at the top

Good for beginner

Fun route

Onsight without trad gear, quite sketchy. Climbed via left side on the crux before the 3rd clip.

Took this on, on our mission to the Bukit Takun summit. We climbed as 2 pitches although could easily do it in one shot.

After the first 10m there is a stance with various bolt hangers for setting up a belay anchor.

While we climbed the route with natural protection, there are various pitons and (homemade looking?) bolt hangers of varying quality which can be used. Both anchors appeared bomber.

Worn out first sling, beware of brittle stalactite handhold. Done it without trad gears.

Easy-ish scramble up to the first anchor (both pitches can actually be climbed and rappelled in one go with a 80m rope). Lovely climbing on pitch 2 with a couple of pretty exposed moves. Clipped old pitons and some bolts on my climb. The rest can be protected with a standard rack and some extended draws to reduce drag.

Did first pitch and traversed off to the left.

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/the-green-line-nipah/

Super fun trad route. Can be done as one pitch if you have a 70m rope and lots of pro. The crack on the second pitch is some classic trad climbing.

Climbed it with very old pre-placed sling. Recommended to bring own trad gear to climb, it is not safe to climb with the worn out sling.

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/