Vie in Nuevo León del grado selezionato

Esta ruta está directamente a la derecha de la grieta/diedro de Mundo Perfecto y tiene plaquetas oxidadas muy viejas

Ruta que se encuentra a la derecha de la pared principal de cazuelas, del lado derecho del techo donde muchas personas realizan prácticas de rapel. Empieza con un bolt bastante alto (sugiero colocar con un clipstick), sube hacia una tufa obvia, pasando por una pared casi plana. Un clásico huastequero.

Established by visiting British climber Gareth "Gaz" Leah during his initiative Project Wall-E and NGO, Escalando Fronteras. The route takes teh super direct line from the valley floor to the summit through a plethora of rock formations and styles. The route is very well equipped and the harder sections can be aided through by "french free" climbing. For those looking to climb the route over 2 days, It is possible to Bivi under the roof at the 7th pitch but a hammock is recommended.

El Lobo del desierto 470mts, 5.12d

Multilargo de escalada deportiva, roca de varios largos establecida por Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia y Luca Giupponi a principios de enero de 2016 Este ruta se ubica por las cara este y norte del Pico Pirineos en Monterrey en México. 12 largos en total hasta 5.12d, un gran muro impresionante, escalado, limpiado y liberado.

La ruta tiene 12 largos (470 mts) y está calificada como (5.12d). El gran muro se trepó desde cero sin utilizar ayudas entre un perno y otro.

Largos: 1- 12a 50mts / 2- 12b 40mts / 3- 12a 35mts / 4- 12c 40mts / 5-11b 40mts / 6- 5.9 30mts / 7- 12a 40mts / 8- 12b 35 / 9- 11c 40 mts / 10-12d 40mts / 11- 11a 30mts / 12- 11d 50mts.

Este multilargo esta armado con estilo deportiva, pero los armadores sugieren llevar equipo adicional de apoyo. VER INFORMACIÓN EN TOPO DIBUJO

Puedes hacer medio multilargo (7 largos) , si sales por la cueva trasera de la virgen e inicias por la canaleta de lado derecho. (ver fotografia de parte trasera de la cueva)

PARA BAJAR, UTILIZA LOS MISMOS RAPELES DE REINAS Y REYES POR ATRAS DEL PICO PIRINEOS.

un poco mas arriba de hansel y gretel, ruta de grieta delgada y desplomada enmedio del cañon

Es la primera ruta de esta pared de lado izquierdo de la arista quebradiza (los agarres están bastante sólidos).

Pasa por la pared amarilla, sigue por un techo y termina en una grieta.

P1 20 mts. P2 25 mts.

Pasa por un techo

Inicia sobre el pilar

5.11d obligatory, 70m rope is sufficient to rap down the route, long pitches have intermediate rappell anchors.

Climbs first few bolts of "Scavenger" then continues up arete.

Starts just left of the grey tufa, next to Camino del Diablo and Blade Runner. Go up and right after the 5th bolt, pull the small roof up on the grey rock.

Start together with Mexican Guarantee but branches out right after the second bolt.

Needs a 70m rope. Over bolted, it can be easily aid climbed using the bolt ladder at the crux.

A new challenging multipitch route in Las Estrellas Canyon.

Grounded up by Alvaro Peiro during the season 22-23. FA by Alvaro Peiro and Matthew Moss in nov 22

• Gear: 20 quickdraws (some slings are useful), 70m rope

• Approach: hike up Las Estrellas Canyon trail. The first pitch is located between the routes “Ulack” and “Curse of the Furry Beast”, just before getting in to Club Mex Wall.

• Descent: the fastest and easiest way to get down is using the same rappels than the popular multipitch “Estrellita”. In case you need to rappel down the route you can do it with a 70m rope. Using quickdraws for guiding the rappels are helpful. Make sure to make knots.

• Climb: the route goes by the middle of Las Estrellas main wall. Sustained and technical climbing through dihedrals, traverses, cracks, steep walls and slabs. The rock is pretty solid but it is still sandy and chossy in some parts, but cleaned of rocks and blocks. Linking pitches is not recommended. A challenging route for strong climbers that wanna try hard multipitches!

L1: 30m/12- L2: 25m/12b/c L3: 20m/12- L4: 35m/10d L5: 30m/12d L6: 35m/12b L7: 20m/11b L8: 25m/12b/c

After R8, climb 3 meters of 4th class to get to Estrellita’s summit.

Start "Sandra" then move right at the first palm tree to top-rope the smooth concave face.

variant: Climb "Golden Cage" until after the roof, then cross to "Repo Man".

70m rope.

Starts at the far left of the ledge. You will see an aluminum plaque at the base in memory of Janosh Seidl. The first pitch trends out left into the crack.

70m rope is required to rap down.

Steep crack climbing and technical face climbing mulitpitch, following a natural line on the left side of the Mileski wall. The only route that goes to the top of the cliff above the entire Upper Sense of Religion, known as El Torero.

70m rope is mandatory. Can link at least pitches 3+4, and 13+14.

Please try it, and leave feedback! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.

P1 5.11 Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.

P2 5.12/+ Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.

P3 5.11 Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun, more sparsely bolted climbing. 34m, 13 bolts.

P4 5.7 Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.

P5 5.10 Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts

P6 5.11+ Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts

P7 5.11 Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.

P8 5.10+ Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.

P9 5.10 Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.

P10 5.10+ Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.

P11 5.10 Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.

P12 5.10+ Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.

P13 5.11 Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.

P14 5.10 To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.

Perma draws.

The first pitch (5.11a/11c) gets you to Bronco Bowls

Bolted tufa left of the Bronco Bowls fixed rope. Get here by climbing Steel Pulse and the traversing all the way to the left anchors.

Shares 1st bolt and anchor with Freedom Fries.

Climbs the cleanest, blankest, rock up the center of the central pillar. A climb made famous after Alex Honnold's free solo ascent.

Rapell down, a 70m rope is enough down to the top of pitch 5, then you need 2 50m ropes.

First pitch has 13 bolts and 45m, a 80m rope brings you down to bolt one and you can downclimb.

Overview:

• 'Approach' pitches, 1-6: 5.11-, 11-, 9, 8, 8, 8
• 'Bivy' Ledge (complete with fire pit, stashed sleeping bag, pads, blankets, dice, backgammon and Yahtzee =)
• 'Middle' pitches, 7-15: 5.4, 12-/10+A0, 9, 10, 11, 11, 10+, 11, 12/10A0
• 'Lunch Ledge'
• 'Upper' pitches, 16-27: 5.10, 9, 9+,10, 11, 9, 10, 9+, 9, 8, 10, 7
• Descent: WALK OFF

Descent Beta... from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridge-line (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col, cross the col, and hike back up to the ridge-line to join the Toro trail at the cross.

NOTES: - this is not just a long 'sport' route, like "Timewave". It is a different beast, altogether, very alpine, adventure climbing. Major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... - you can bail reasonably well up through pitch 17. Rappelling from above that point will be complicated, at best, due to traverses. If you do pitch 18, you are pretty committed to going to the top.

• during the FA, it was decided that pitch 20 needs another bolt at the crux. Its a little runout and exposed. I will fix this next season, but didn´t want to hold back opening the route to the public. fair warning, however... we fashioned a stick-clip on the spot.
• I have done a LOT of cleaning, but until the route sees traffic, there will always be some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy (but easy).
• pitches 5 and 6 are not current rappelable, due to the traverse and lack of rings (you could of course leave biners or quicklinks). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing.
• there are still fixed lines on most of the harder sections, pitches 1-2, 8, 10-15. pitch 20 does NOT have a fixed line
• Linking... most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked. 14,15, and 18 you definitely want to pitch out. 19, 20, 21, use your judgement (we chose to pitch them out, but i think you could 20-21). 24-25 i linked, but drag was pretty rough at the top.
• the photo below was done early on. slight changes in the route were made, and the upper pitch numbers (which were estimated) turned out incorrect. i dont have an original photo to reproduce the image (feel free to send me one, Rancho Sendero is a good vantage point). its not perfect, but its close. it should give you an idea of the route, at least.

Feel free to contact can contact Eric Werfel at eric.werfel@gmail.com with questions.

This route is located at the end of the Tarahumara Pass on the great wall on the left side. The beginning of the route is identified by a small pillar of stones as a reference. The base was cleaned by removing loose rock and thorny plants.

Esta ruta se ubica al final del paso Tarahumara, en la gran pared de lado izquierdo. El inicio de la ruta la identificas por pequeño pilar de piedras como referencia. Se hizo limpieza de la base quitando roca suelta y plantas espinosas.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ (9 bolts + anchors)

Pitch 2: 5.12- (14 bolts + anchors)

This route does not see a lot of traffic, please provide info as you can.

Technical facd climbing up to super steep tufas.

DO NOT CLIMB as it is DANGEROUS.

Starts behind the small tree / bush into the open dihedral. Start on Malavisco and go straight up to a broken hold. Worth doing.CURTIS LOVE 2004

Start on the left side of the left boulder detached form the wall, first bolt is high up the wall, a few moves off the boulder.

Bajar a la primera reunión para poder descender al piso (aun con cuerda de 80m). Climb culo de la negra and continue for another 20m , lower to the first anchor to get to the ground (even with an 80m).

Starts just left of the big tree and crosses right above it. Belayer be careful at the 4th crux moves.

Goes up left along the big grey tufa ;-). Steep start and tough finish once you loose the tufa to your right.

6 plaquetas adicionales ala via original, de resistencia y moviemientos duros.

Nice sustained pump up the main steepneess.Co mitting moves to transition and large throws,kneebars ,tufas and great pockets make this a classic not to miss it.

Short and hard of very good quality. Only one ascent so far at the time, july2019. Grade might be harder than reality.

3rd route from right to left.follow the overhanging crack diedral into roof and gigantic tufas.

First anchor goes up to 28 meter, extension goes another 12 meters.

First anchor name: un mundo feliz. Extension name: fuera de la realidad.

80 m rope.

Open Project.

Long and well bolted route.

Climb the grey slap to bouldery cruxes.

Start on "Que hay de mi?" and before the chains continue on to el "Arte de Volar".

Starts left of the tree and leads through the roof to a high anchor. Grade not confirmed, please add your contribution.

Start just right of Easyrider and follow the featured growth and chosy looking blocks up and right. Lean into the dihedral and get ready for the crux, and follow more tufas up towards the looming block overhead. Its bomber. Another easy 10 meters to the anchors.

Hard face and dihedral to an even harder roof. Pulling the roof is the crux.

Climb the slab left of the looming block. follow laybacks and underclings to the bulge below the tufa roof. Pull the roof and hit the easy slab to the anchors.

The left multi-pitch. After pitch 2 you reach a ledge with 3 routes on ornage rock. The left one is listed here as pitch 3, the center and the right one are listed as separate routes.

The middle one of the 3 3rd pitches. Grade not confirmed.

The right one of the 3 3rd pitches. Grade not confirmed.

Right of the three, is the route that goes left to the lower anchors.

Placa, desplome, descanso, luego placa desplomada para llegar a las cadenas

Continue with some nice long moves in pockets to smaller holds for a pumpy extension.

Starts on “La Cumpleañera” and then climb left into “Las Perlas de la Virgen”

ITS A CONECTION 3 BOLTS ONE , BOLTED BY : JOE GUADARRAMA.

SUPER FUN TECHY BOULDERY MOVES, KEEP UR HEEPS NEAR THE WALL.

very steep climbing through cobbles and choss looking holds but its solid, very fun .

bolted by GOOFY from Saltillo and Vale de La Cruz.

climb pass the tiny roof , some rail sloppy crimps is what u get ,high feet , very explosive, bouldery and shorty, enjoint , mussys in the anchor!

BOLTED BY MARK GRUNDON.

Left route in the little cave. Roof climbing to bouldery crux to a gently overhanging finish. Chain draws for first bolts only.

Empiezas en un techo horizontal, los últimos movimientos antes de salir del techo es el crux, el final esta tranqui. The right route in the little cave. Fun roof climbing. Chain draws first bolts only

Left most route in the big cave. Pull out the roof on big holds, and finish with some powerful moves to the anchor

Almost all big holds to the anchor.

Climbs the route side of the giant stalactite. A classic route named after a classic artist. First draws are Climbtech perma draws perma draws all the way.

Climbs up to some huge stalactites with wild stemming.

Starts in the black rock.

Climbs the first four bolts of Abuelo Malandro then cuts left up to a wild roof finish

Es la extensión de Cinturón

Third route as you arrive at the arch. Characterized by a slab start into overhanging tufa/stalactite climbing. A long dance between knee bars, sit downs, stand ups, jugs. So good!

This is the right-most route on the Dong Wall. Climb up under and alongside the big black stalactite. Lower-off anchors. Start on the white flake on the right side of the Dong Wall. Aim for the big black stalactite.

The rightmost route on the huge Archangel Wall. Start up a slab and work to a zigzag crack. Then follow pockets and horizontals to the anchors. Pumpy and physical. Wear long pants to maximize rests. A huge 30m rope swing can be rigged from the anchors of Arch Enemigo.

The second route off the lower ledge. Start a bit left of the bolts and climb out very steep rock. Long moves on big jugs. Exposed. Throw the climber a rope to avoid lowering all the way to the river.