Tutti 79 ascensioni visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lun 5 Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
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20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 5 | Media | |||
A bit squeezed at the top.
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17 Dura | ★★ Iboga - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 30m, 1 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
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Mer 27 Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
22 | ★★ Predator - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 12m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
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Sab 21 Ott 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 |
★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2
- con
Gareth
2
20
arrampicata in lead da
John Pitcairn
Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG. | 20m, 14 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
18 | ★★ Guardians of the Galaxy P1-2 - con Gareth | 35m, 28 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.
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19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
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17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz - con Gareth | 15m | Media | |||
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
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Ven 20 Ott 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Gareth | 20m, 5 | Media | |||
I think it's 19.
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - con Gareth | 20m, 8 | Media | |||
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
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Dom 9 Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
22 |
★★ Mr Mojo
- con
Gareth
1
22
30m
arrampicata in lead da
John Pitcairn
Great pitch. Pumpy through the crimps, needed a sit. A number of attempts at finding the crux sequence with several chunky falls. Core shot the rope but didn't notice, shiiittt. Belayed at the new lower anchor, removed a loose rock and lowered it.
2
18
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Gareth
Loose rock, lichen, confusing bolting at top, scrabbly topout over loose gravel to overcrowded caveman anchor. Not 19. Removes a star, don't bother, just do P1. | 60m, 13 | ★ Buona | |||
16 ~15 | Sweet 16s Not M16s - con Gareth | 20m, 9 | Pessima | |||
Warmup. Meh.
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Sab 8 Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
Adventure climbing in failing light. Spiderwebs, bushes, lichen, runout, tree anchor, wouldn't have it any other way. Needed a wee swim after, brrr.
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20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Gareth | 20m, 5 | Media | |||
A bit confusing at the crux where routes are just too close together.
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19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.
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Sab 16 Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - con Greg, Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Shortly before dark, among the AURAC hordes. Sure keeps you honest, held a foot slip at the expense of some finger skin. Then time for Gareth's grindr assault on Respect My Authoritah.
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Sab 5 Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
22 | ★★ Predator - con Gareth | 12m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.
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18 | ★ Respect My Authoritah - con Gareth | 20m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Went easily now the gritty feet have cleaned up. Going right to the sloper-undercling thing is a bit harder, but still no more than 18 and not stiff.
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Lun 31 Gen 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Vague sense of slacking, walked up to do something before dark.
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Dom 30 Gen 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth | 25m | ★ Buona | |||
It's not 2 stars but it's definitely worth doing. There is sufficient gear in the "runout" cave section if you use your eyes and brain.
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Lun 3 Gen 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Secret Squirrel - con Gareth | 20m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Warmdown 2. Use the right arete at the low crux and it's on the soft side of 17.
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16 | ★ Sugar Rush - con Gareth | 15m, 5 | Media | |||
Warmdown 1. Would probably be a decent slab, but pretty dirty. Anyone want to scrub it properly?
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22 | ★★ Predator - con Gareth | 12m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.
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22 | ★★ Predator - con Gareth | 12m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Thought we'd top rope after James led, but no sign of him so got on it with a chalk bag on feeling very sporty. A bit nervy getting first draw on and clipped, then sat on it. Went bolt-to-bolt from there, working out a good sequence among many many chalked-up sucker holds. Managed to get through bolt 5 clean. After bolt 1 it all works best as big moves between jugs.
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Ven 31 Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Now with 20% less sharp and much better for it. Just stay on and keep going. One of the best in the vicinity.
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - con Gareth | 20m, 8 | Media | |||
Some NYE shade. Gareth leading after 3 days of shoulder whinge.
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17 |
★★ Reggae Shark (Reggae Shark P1-3)
- con
Gareth, Grant Johnston, Chris
| 65m | ★ Buona | |||
First outdoor visit for Chris, so why not make it a multipitch? Did P1-2 on gear with one bolt at crux. Shoes still not as sensitive as I'd like for that. Loose rock at top of P2 is a bit worrying. Had thought we might be able to get across to top pitch of DHMK to finish, but that looked sketchy and hard. Hot hot hot, rapped off.
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Gio 30 Dic 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 |
★★ Jugzilla
- con
Gareth, Greg
| 42m, 13 | ★ Buona | |||
In theory just providing a P1 top rope, but had never done pitch 2, which turns out to be quite balancy with a couple of committing moves until it eases after bolt 3. Nice top out, a smidge higher than Captain Caveman. A hurried rap off and walk back to camp in low light and spots of rain.
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19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Gareth, Greg | 15m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
The low end of 19. Always a slight sense of disappointment when the monkey jugs disappear for the crux.
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Mer 30 Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
18 |
★★ Guardians of the Galaxy
- con
Grant Johnston, Gareth
| 60m, 28 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Started up at 6pm, back down just after 9 in a party of 3. Nice to lead pitch 4, veered a bit left for extra overhang stardom in front of an audience of 26 boats parked up in the bay. Would give 3 stars if not for the hand line in the middle.
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Lun 26 Ott 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | Purple Haze - con Gareth | 18m | Pessima | |||
Just walk on by. You'll be very paranoid about the rock by the time you get to the top. Treat everything with suspicion, and consider gear placements carefully, the rock is very crusty in places. Gareth chucked a few smaller bits off. Climbed in Gareth's slightly oversize pinks, but found mine at Secret Garden after this. Ran out of time, back to camp for lunch and pack-up.
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16 | Marshmellow - con Gareth | 20m, 6 | Media | |||
Couldn't find my rock shoes, climbed in chunky approach shoes, certainly upped the pucker factor on the moss. Gear a bit sparse at top. I never need to do this again.
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Lun 24 Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
18 | ★ Respect My Authoritah - con Gareth Hall | 20m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
WTF Donovan? Fell, sat, had steam coming out my ears trying to figure out the crux. Gritty feet didn't help, but I can't see this being 18.
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19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - con Gareth Hall | 20m, 7 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Unfinished business. Was expecting a fight, but cruised it. Really good.
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16 | Marshmellow - con Gareth Hall | 20m, 6 | Media | |||
Grubby start. There's more gear than bolts, and that will make it more fun. Must return for a greenpoint.
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Sab 22 Feb 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
15 | ★ Naked And Afraid - con Gareth Hall | 18m | ★ Buona | |||
We thought it was a FA to add to Flogg's haul, then Rafael informed us he'd done it a few years ago, and it was clean then, so guess not. Cleaned it a bit. Decent gear, 12/13 ish most of the way, definitely go up the wide crack at top before traversing to get full value.
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17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth Hall | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Waited out the rain, shagged around, better climb something. A little gardening. Gareth could have placed more gear before the runout, cavers eh?
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Mar 28 Gen 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
13 | ★ Peach Teats | 12m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Cleaning the TR anchor. Cams in pockets.
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15 | Dirt Free | 12m | Media | |||
Setting up a top rope on Peach Teats for Rosie. Grass, dirt, climbs OK but needs a trowel.
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Dom 26 Gen 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 |
★★ Reggae Shark P1-2
| 40m | ★ Buona | |||
Went up in the evening to see if there would be a link pitch on gear into The Sufferer And The Witness, allowing a full gear route to the very top of the bluff. There would be, but it would be short chossy and pretty average, probably need a hand rope, and cleaning it would rain crap on everything below. Effort best spent elsewhere. Linked P1-2, forgot Gareth's rope is now 56m and had to get down in 2 abseils.
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Mer 22 Gen 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
13 | ★ Peach Teats - con Rosie | 12m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Setting up top rope. Actually this is pretty good for a NZ 13. There's a crux and everything.
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13 | ★ Peach Teats - con Rosie | 12m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Cleaning the anchor after Rosie's success.
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10 | My Little Pony | 6m | Pessima | |||
And removing it.
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10 | My Little Pony - con Rosie | 6m | Pessima | |||
Meh. Setting up short top rope for Rosie.
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Gio 25 Apr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 |
★★ Reggae Shark
- con
Grant Johnston
| 50m | ★ Buona | |||
Another go at the P1/2 linkup on gear, still not entirely happy, need to spend more time looking at those pockets, but doing those on gear makes it a lot more interesting. P3 is the money if you don't climb 23. Hot rock at the top of that. You can rap down from the top of P2 on a single 60m rope if you don't mind downclimbing the bottom 3m of Dirt Free.
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Ven 22 Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz - con Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Buona | |||
Not bad. Don't know why I found the start so hard last attempt.
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16 | Fuzzy Duck - con Gareth Hall | 18m, 9 | Media | |||
It's definitely not 15 Martyn. Spent a fair bit of time with a nut tool and stick levering off the big loose death flake near the bottom.
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Mer 20 Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Gareth Hall | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Has a lot of character. The kowhai tree has grown a lot in just a few weeks.
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17 |
★★ Reggae Shark
- con
Gareth Hall
1
17
25m
arrampicata in lead da
Gareth Hall
2
14
10m
arrampicata in lead da
Gareth Hall
| 50m | ★ Buona | |||
Gareth ran P1-2 together, P3 is probably the winner here. Looked speculatively at P4 but getting too hot.
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction | 20m, 8 | ★ Buona | |||
Goes on gear, with a couple of runouts. Probably could have hunted around and found more.
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Lun 28 Gen 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
18 |
★★ Guardians of the Galaxy
- con
Gareth
2
18
15m
arrampicata in lead da
Gareth
4
18
13m
arrampicata in lead da
Gareth
| 60m, 28 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Really very good, nicely clean, consistent difficulty and the sloping features keep you thinking all the way. Good footwork needed. Ran out of draws and had to belay 8m short of the top of P2 (duh). It's let down only by the awkward hand line traverse and the loose belay ledge that leads to, otherwise I'd almost say 3 stars. Gareth took a plummet at the start pf P4, just kept him off the ledge, but this is why you don't want to link 3-4.
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Dom 27 Gen 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs - con Angela Hewlett | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
Attempting to keep it very pure, straight up, no drifting or reaching for jugs left or right. Took a long fall, then a couple of shorter ones. The top crux is maybe just barely 22 done this way. A bit off my best game.
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Mar 8 Gen 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - con Tim Swain | 20m, 7 | ★ Buona | |||
Pumpy! A hard start (unless you traverse in left?) and it doesn't let up. Had a sit and shake out before the crux, knew I wouldn't make it. Fought through it from there successfully, holds are sharpish. Will return for another go.
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17 | ★ Pimple - con Tim Swain | 15m | Media | |||
Better than average but perhaps not worth a star.
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Lun 7 Gen 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 |
★★ Psychedelic Freeway (Psychedelic Freeway linkup Captain Caveman)
- con
Tim Swain
| 60m, 11 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Pitch 2 feels outrageous, steep and exposed with good gear and mentally a lot harder than Caveman P3. Worth the effort.
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Sab 5 Gen 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Tim Swain | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
The good start protects well on fist sized gear, the good end on finger-sized, nothing for 10m in the middle but that's an easy ramble. A lot of bad helicopter action going on below.
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16 | ★ Sugar Rush - con Tim Swain | 15m, 5 | Media | |||
Fairly dull. You can jam the start.
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Dom 30 Dic 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs - con Grant Johnston | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
A quick repeat after some discussion whether the grade is soft. If you stick to the line of bolts and don't divert left into Sundowning or reach out to the jugs 1m right of the crux higher up, there may be one or two moves at 21-22 there. That really makes it an eliminate...
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17 |
★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai Linkup Iboga
- con
Grant Johnston
| 55m, 14 | ★ Buona | |||
An adventure, AKA "Awesome Mixed Route Vol 1" or "Honey, Ibogaed My Kowhai". The start of DHMK is dirty to the point where the crack is almost hidden. Standing on lichen while digging out a crack ain't awesome. The second pitch (Iboga) looks great and is a terrific intimidating lead, you'll want at least doubles of #2 and #3 cams (which I was well short of), but is let down by some suspect sandy rock at the initial traverse and has a dirty loose top-out. We accidentally sent a couple of sizeable missiles down toward the base of Predator. Awesome yes, but a little dangerous to others. The hand line back to DHMK is a 10m pitch in itself (stay on belay) with dirt underfoot at start and finish, which further detracts (and it's shared with Guardians of the Galaxy). The top pitch of DHMK is much easier, well protected, airy and very fun for 5m at the top while sneaking out the roof.
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Dom 4 Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
14 | ★ Dancing on Rainbows - con Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Wind down part 2: two pink tricams, red and yellow totem basics, thread, bomber #1 C4.
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13 | ★ Peach Teats - con Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | Media | |||
Wind down part 1: all five tricams and a red totem basic. Much more fun on gear. Then dropped the rope and had to scramble off the back in shame.
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Sab 3 Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz (Unknown) | 15m | ||||
We were looking for Sweet 16s. This isn't one. Couldn't get past the first bolt.
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24 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle | 12m, 5 | ||||
An attempt at Predator but immediately got suckered off route, clipped the first bolt of this, tried to go up, fell off and lowered. Should have read the guide...
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19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Angela Hewlett | 15m, 6 | ★ Buona | |||
Fun monkey dancing on good pockets out to the arete, crux getting onto the slab above.
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16 | Sweet 16s Not M16s - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 9 | Pessima | |||
Just what the world needs, more dull easy sport routes.
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17 |
★★ Jugzilla (Jugzilla P1)
- con
Angela Hewlett
| 30m, 13 | ★ Buona | |||
A 2m sling might help manage the rope drag induced by the shared bolting at the top.
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Ven 2 Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs | 20m | ★ Buona | |||
First 22 onsight, maybe it's a little soft? Fun climbing, just enough features to keep it all together.
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20 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 5 | ★ Buona | |||
Enjoyable, but bolting seems a tad runout. Not sure how it is supposed to finish, left to top bolt of Jug Addiction, or right into top of Hugs not Drugs? Straight up over the bulge would be harder than 20 for sure.
|
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17 | ★ Secret Squirrel - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Flows very well. Not sure about the L/R variants, we started left then drifted right to the arete after first bolt, that still seemed 17 ish.
|
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15 | Dirt Free - con Angela Hewlett | 12m | Media | |||
One move possibly at the grade, but is mostly easier.
|
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - con Angela Hewlett | 20m, 8 | Media | |||
Straightforward jug haul, the routes to the right and left are better.
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Dom 7 Gen 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 |
★★ Reggae Shark (Reggae Shark P1-3)
3
17
arrampicata in lead da
Stephen
| 80m | ★ Buona | |||
Well, we went looking for Don't Hurt My Kowhai. Obviously we failed to find it. But pitches 1-2 of this go well on gear with a little digging. Clipped the bolt at the P1 crux but otherwise all gear. Pitch 3 is pretty cool. We bailed after pitch 3 because we weren't sure whether the leftward-exit line of bolts through the overhang is DHMK (it isn't, good call).
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Lun 1 Feb 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Captain Caveman - con Angela Hewlett | 60m, 24 | ★★★ Classica | |||
Great finish for the trip. Would say mega-classic if not so heavily retrobolted. 1st pitch a bit average but cave and top pitch are terrific. Led under time pressure mostly on gear with trad anchor below the chimney, used 2 bolts on P1 (still damp down low), 1st 2 on P2 (maybe some pro available), one before 1st overlap on P3 (probably pro but keen to move on). Top pitch more like fun 17-18 most of the way, engage your brain at the top overhang, sling the obvious thread then find the jugs. Wow.
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Dom 31 Gen 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | Little Miss Naughty - con Angela Hewlett | 12m | ★ Buona | |||
Quite interesting placements, OK climbing.
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14 | ★ Dancing on Rainbows - con Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | ★ Buona | |||
Checking out Angela's gear and extension (pretty good). We wonder if Peach Teats was around here but has been renamed and/or retrobolted?
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17 | ★ Pimple - con Angela Hewlett | 15m | Media | |||
Grant took the dinghy out, we went looking for Peach Teats for Angela, who started up this until it quickly became obviously more difficult than 13. Also still fairly dirty. A bit crimpy here and there, not a lot to recommend it. Feeling pretty tired after yesterday.
|
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Sab 30 Gen 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Nice adventure. A good bridge and jam fight up the start (#5 BD cam would have been useful, a #4 is a bit tipped out), then a big but easy runout to gear and a sitting rest. Finish is well protected and not difficult. A great way to approach Sex Panther.
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Sab 7 Feb 2015 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
14 |
★★ Thunder God (ThunderGod P2)
- con
shichang, Angela Hewlett
| 52m | ★ Buona | |||
Abseiled into pitch 2 from the Jugzilla anchors. It's OK, though the crack is likely to be quite dirty. Would be a good beginner lead.
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17 |
★★ Jugzilla (Jugzilla P1)
- con
shichang, Angela Hewlett
| 42m, 13 | ★ Buona | |||
A pleasant jug haul, join the queue. Just did the first pitch then abseiled into the second pitch of ThunderGod.
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Tutti 79 ascensioni visualizzati.