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Borland Valley

Stagionalità

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Sommario

Granite climbing in an alpine setting.

Descrizione

Routes and approaches vary for all. From large cliffs that host spectacular trad and multipitch routes, to roofs that will push you to your limits. Borland is a fantastic climbing area that easily rivals cragging in the Cleddau Valley.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

From early May to mid October, the road to the Borland crags is closed. Though winter here is not suitable for cragging due to seepage. But for those determined enough, a bike can be ridden up the road.

Avvicinamento

Approach and approach time varies for each crag.

Dove stare

There are many places to stay near Borland. Borland Lodge is located at the edge of the Park and offers basic bunks and chalets with good cooking and shower facilities. Monowai Edge Cabins in Monowai Village offers similar accommodation options. There are many places to camp. Just near the Den and the Watchtower is a pull-off trending right towards the upper Borland Burn which will lead you to a beautiful area that can host numerous vehicles and tents on flat grass next the river. Farther up the road, where the road meets the saddle is another good spot to camp, albeit without water. The DOC Monowai Campsite near Lake Monowai is basic but nice. Reese’s Bivy near the base of the Upper Bluffs is a fantastic bivy rock which sleeps 4 comfortably. All rubbish should be carried out and any human waste buried according to Leave No Trave principles.

Etica

Leave no trace.

Storia

Grafico cronologico delle vie

Paul King and Bill McLeod are the first known climbers to climb in Borland, establishing the first routes on the Borland Roadside crag in 1988. In the 1990’s Andy Macfarlane explored the area with numerous partners including Murry Judge, John McCartney and Paula Macfarlane. Details of those visits is vague, but Murry recalls they established Roaring Forties on the Upper Bluffs. Other routes which were likely climbed in those days include The Bishop, ‘several of the crags visible where the road leaves the bush and climbs up to the saddle’, ‘one across the valley where the north branch comes in’, and ‘one line on the good looking granite crag at the top of the sidestream mentioned above, I (Murray) think the right skyline looking up the stream’ which suggests the Eagle Rock area and The Beak. The area sat in obscurity for years being used predominantly for school climbing and abseiling on the Roadside Crags. Steve Skelton began visiting the area in 2006 and, with Reese Doyle and Keith Brown established several lines on the Upper Bluffs areas over the early 2010’s. Other local climbers, including Peter O’Neill and Jimmy Finlayson opened several new routes. The Watchtower area saw significant development in 2014 and 2015 by Tony Burnell, Owen Davis, Adam Herbstritt and Joe Ward. Visiting canterbury climbers Zac Orme, Troy Mattingley and James Morris visited in 2015, opening The Den and equipping routes on Eagle Rock. As of writing in April 2023, development continues on the lower crags, including The Perch by Skelton and Dusk Wall by Troy Kendall.

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