Vie come alpinistica in Te Waipounamu / The South Island

2+

Quality alpine scramble doable in a day from Mt Cook Villiage. NZ mountaineering grade 3, approximately Ewbanks Grade 8. Competent parties may be able to solo but a rope and some trad gear should probably be carried. Start either:

• Scrambling up the scrub to the right of the buttress until gaining the ridge.
• Direct up the buttress (approx 18/19)
• following a stream on lookers left of the Buttress until it joins the route higher up.

See here for where the climb starts.

Up the easy snow slopes trending slightly left of the black thumbnail and the corniced ridge above. Steep climbing and technical crux (Wi4) lessening to 70 degree ice leads left up a snicy couloir to a ridgeline. Traverse left and straight up a headwall for 80m of 60 degree ice.

A thirteen pitch route starting just right and below where the major icecliffs begin to develop. The route follows a right ascending traverse after four pitches and then heads straight up steep ice onto the ridge 200m from the summit of Mt Walter.

Ascend an obvious gully for eight pitches, which broadens out to join the snowfields left of the summit.

Climbed during a lean snow season on mainly since with a little bit of rock/water ice. An engaging climb from start to finish. 250m of technical climbing + 100m of steep snow. The crux second pitch goes directly up a smear of steep ice that disects the lower rock band - an amazing pitch of alpine ice. Approached via Divers Col route. Descent down this via Green's east face.

P1- easy gully to belay at base of steep flow. 30m. P2- straight up steep smear of ice to belay at start of next gully. Crux. 60m P3- gully climbing with bulges. 30m. P4- angle up and right to short steep grove that takes you back left through mixed terrain.50m P5- easy mixed terrain up and right towards flow dissecting final rock band. 50m. P6 - short steep ice flow for 20m + 100m of steep snow to summit.

The eye catching southwest buttress gained from upper valley in Freds Stream, on the south west outlier of Mt Lloyd. Climb centre of delightful face for six pitches of about grade 12. Then complete a series of pinnacles and short walls. The upper part of the route provides a crux grade 16 pitch on a 40m wall. About 350 m, 14 pitches in total.

From Plateau Hut cross the Grand Plateau Glacier and follow the Linda Glacier past Zurbriggens and Bowie Ridges. Turn left at Teichelmans Corner and continue to the right of the Linda Shelf. Gain the shelf and traverse to climbers left quickly underneath the menacing ice-cliffs above (called the Gunbarrels). Join Zurbriggens Ridge at the Summit Rocks and continue up onto summit ice-cap.

Easy climb from Barron Saddle Hut

Up via Welchman Glacier

Arthur’s Pass NP’s answer to the Grand Traverse of the Remarkables. Similar in character to its southern cousin, but with poorer rock quality and slightly less dramatic views.

From the Temple Basin ski field, ascend the slabs on the east face of Mt Phipps. Many variations are possible, and it is sometimes better to choose the harder line to avoid loose rock and scree. After gaining the ridge, follow it northeast to the summit of Mt Temple. Travel along the ridge is relatively straightforward, but it is sometimes necessary to drop down on one side or another to avoid gendarmes. The descent from Temple involves scree skiing down the central fully back to the ski field.

This route follows the only marked track to a summit in APNP. From behind the visitors centre in Arthur’s Pass Village, ascend steeply through native beech forest, passing several waterfalls, to eventually arrive above treeline. Join with Scott’s Track about 200m below the summit and continue up. Descend via Scott’s Track or continue on to Lyell Peak and Mt Bealy.

Starting left of the NE Coulior and main buttress follow this up until you reach the flat ridge above the rib. Continue up the ridge crest on good rock o the summit. Mt Cook Grade +

Ascend the prominent coulior to the right of the NE Spur.

Ascend the rib to the right of the NE Spur following it up to the top of Sun Circle. Continue along the ridge climbing to the summit.

Climb prominent corner to the right of Eurostar for 3 pitches on good rock then 7 more pitches on deteriorating rock to reach the gendarme. Abseil the face climber's right of Sun circle.

Ascends the ice fall from Haast Corner to Marcel Col. If crevasses prove problematic, the route may be navigated closer to Lendenfeld than to Haast. Beware of cornices forming on the edge of the col. NZ Grade III, 2.

A straightforward route on moderate snow slopes, however conditions can alternate between hard ice in winter and a large gap with exposed rock developing in late summer. The common access and descent route for Tasman via Engineer Col. NZ Grade III, 2.

200m scrambling up good rock (grade 12) then following the snow slopes to the exit gullies to the summit. Descent via the South Ridge is normal. NZ Grade III, 4.

Best to follow the main weakness on the right of the buttress (grade 12) though a line up the centre has been climbed at grade 15. Follow the snow slope through the exit gullies to the summit. NZ Grade III, 4.

Climb the snow rib to the right of the rock butresses then traverse out onto the main face and up the exit gullies to the summit. NZ Grade II, 3+.

The most popular way up Haidinger, as well as the most common descent route. NZ Grade II, 3.

s

An easier access and descent route for the North West Ridge. Has been the scene of several fatalities, care is required in the afternoon with softening snow. NZ Grade III, 2

NZ Grade III, 3

The route of first ascent of Mt Aspiring in 1909. NZ Grade III, 3

A mega-classic of the Southern Alps. NZ Grade III, 3+.

NZ Grade IV, 5

The line of first ascent of the South Face which sounds like it was a bit of an epic! Parallels the South West Ridge via a series of snow ramps and rock steps. After crossing the prominent snow arete, the line traverses right until a number of exit gullies are reached, all at a similar grade. NZ Grade IV, 4.

A direct finish to the Original Line which avoids traversing and takes a line straight to the summit via a short section of steep ice. NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade IV, 4

NZ Grade IV, 5+

NZ Grade IV, 5+

NZ Grade IV, 5+

Start as for Perspiring. Climb through the lower rock band, follow gully and then gradually traverse left until under obvious notch. Head up through some ice/mixed pitches and exit at the obvious notch at the coxcomb. 12 x 60m pitches plus four pitches along the Coxcomb ridge. Cruxes pitch 1 WI3 & M3, Pitch 3 WI3+ & M4, Pitch 10 WI3+ & M3, Pitch 12 M4 8-12 ice screws, single set of cams 0 - 2, single set of wires 1 - 7, 8-12 draws. NZ Grade IV, 5+

A deep-winter linkup from the Whiston-Hyslop start to a new finish between Shooting Star and Thule. FA involved descent down the NW/Ramp via the Coxcomb. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition) other than the beautiful 60m crux pitch - a WI3 hose, with three vertical mixed steps at WI4+ / M5. Route is defined by the large chockstone visible in the middle of the flow, which breaks the second rock band - the start of the crux pitch moves around this to the right - belaying underneath is recommended for overhead on the crux. FA gear: Nuts (8 - 13), Cams & Tricams (x6 to #2), Screws (x12), 2-3 Blades. 15 - 18hrs on FA. NZ Grade IV, 5+

NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade IV, 5

A short 6th pitch can be avoided if you begin belaying above the schrund. Pick your way up and along a right leaning shallow groove with mixed moves on the first pitch, until you can move up and left to gain a consistent ice flow in the second. Near vertical sections through the rest of the climb easing on the final pitch and trending right to gain the ridge. Gear: 10 x ice screws. Bring mainly shorter screws as this route is likely to have thinner ice than its neighbours. NZ Grade IV, 5

Five pitches of ice which form an alternate start to the Coxcomb Ridge. NZ Grade III, 4.

Grade V, 3+

Access is made by abseiling off the Coxcomb from the Bonar which is a wee bit committing. NZ Grade IV, 6

NZ Grade V, 5

NZ Grade V, 6

NZ Grade IV, 3

Follows a rock rib up the centre of the face before a section of mixed terrain leading to the Coxcomb Ridge. NZ Grade IV, 3

NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade III, 3

The trade route for Mt Aspiring. NZ Grade III, 2

A long approach via Long Flat Creek leads up to the Main Divide. Sidle along the ridge turning problems on both left and right to reach a summit tower. Climb a chimney and loose blocks to gain the crest and the summit.

Bush bash up Warden Spur and over Topheavy Peak then follow the broad ridge to the summit. The top section can be tricky when plastered with sastrugi. Alternatively, walk in via Brewster hut and traverse to glacier across rough ground. Traverse in between 1750-1800m alt to avoid dangerous gully. 5.5 hrs. Route across glacier and over triple pointed summit ridge 6 hrs return.

From the col between Grey Peak and Humdinger, climb the arete. NZ Grade II, 3

Exact route unknown. NZ Grade II, 2+.

Nice climbing on decent red greywacke. NZ Grade II, 3.

Takes a direct line through the red pillar that leads through the roofs on the left side. P1 (19) - Climb past the vertical crack out of the alcove and move onto textured orange rock. Traverse right directly under pink, blank rock and up to a belay in a crack. P2 (20) - Traverse left and up the slab. Move to the left hand crack, passing through the steepest ground on the right crack before moving left into a crack/corner belay. P3 (20) - Step right onto the pillar and climb through technical ground heading first left, then right and up to belay in cracks. P4 (18) - Climb up the dark groove to the base of a clean left facing corner and big belay ledge. P5 (16) - Climb the corner and belay above the top of the tower. P6 (14) - Trend left and belay just beyond a cave. P7 (14) - Climb up to the ledge.

Scramble to Kahu to find the rap line which takes you back to the glacier.

6 pitches through the right side of the face and passes through the roof on the right side of the prominent rectangular block. P1 (18) - Climb crack and belay under left facing corner. P2 (21) - Climb the triple cracks and the left facing corner.From top of the tower step left and climb through buldge. P3 (17) - Climb up then right to gain left trending ramp. Follow before climbing a chimney then break left past the orange block. P4 (17) - Follow the brek left, then head right and up onto clean orange rock. Belay on a flat spot. P5 (14) - Climb up on easy ground heading right of the big hole/cave above. P6 (14) - Follow right trending break to the top of the light coloured headwall, where you will find the first bolted rap anchor.

A seperate rap line takes you back to the glacier.

Follows the abseil anchors up. First pitch is the crux and climbing progressively eases from there to easy scrambling. An easy solo on scree gets you to the top of Humdinger. Bring some rap tat as some of the anchors have only one bolt.

Up the coolie not described in guide book for one (maybe two) pitches of mixed. (M3/4) followed by 45-50 degree Snow/Ice for 75 m to true summit. Rapped into and down main coolie (Very loose rock on descent). Not sure if this has been climbed before. If this is a FA, we propose the name "Blitzing everywhere"

The traverse has commitment , exposure and dramatic views. It takes a full day. In full summer conditions, the route is a mostly long rock scramble with steep sections, however snow and ice increase the difficulty. For pitching, bring a 60m rope with a small rack and plenty of long slings. An ice axe is necessary in winter conditions. Take plenty of water, there is none en route.

Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays.

There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult.

Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope.

The left most snow gully.

Starting at Shadow Basin top station, ascend ridgeline lookers left of the saddle. Gains about 200m vertical - either hug the blocky ridge or adjacent snow slopes can provide easy solutions.

access the mountain from what is now the standard approach route through Kea Basin, ascending the Birley Glacier and through Wright Col

ascending the north-west ridge of West peak is one of the classic climbs of New Zealand.

south face of the East Peak, the route goes through the upper section of the bluffs by the top of the couloir. comprises a bottom third of rock buttresses, a middle third of glacier, and a top third of steep snow slopes. Ben Dare finally soloed this route on his 6th visit to the mountain.

http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=070910_earnslaw.php&direct=nz

the obvious South East Coluoir visible from the Rees Valley. runs all the way to the summit!

Blue moon 160m, grade 22, mixed sport / trad

Pitch 1 - 25m, grade 20, 7 bolts & trad Start at cairn, a few metres left of first bolt. Traverse up and right with stemming feet on small holds to first bolt. After 4th bolt move right into crack, good cam placement. Pull through 2 cruxy lips then easy ground to DBA

Pitch 2 - 35m, grade 17, 4 bolts & trad Diagonally up and right from anchor past 2 bolts to corner with small gear. Up onto the top of pillar, past another bolt. Move up and left from bolt, crux through lip with good cam. Pass one more bolt then scramble up through easy ground, trending right to ledge and DBA

Pitch 3 - 35m grade 22, 8 bolts & trad Bolt straight above the anchor then follow the crack. Follow 2 bolts on face above, making balancy delicate moves on small holds. Clip a long sling to the bolt on your left then head up through the groove and large detached block on the right to the ledge. Step right to the bolt on next headwall. 2 ropes essential to avoid drag. Tricky moves up through more bolts and through left side of small roof. Easy to anchor

Pitch 4 - 25m grade 20, 8 bolts & trad Gear in the crack up and left of the anchor, then traverse right to the first bolt. Crimpy face climbing up to the anchor. At the last bolt don’t be tempted by the easy ledge out right - go straight up past the bolt for full value

Pitch 5 - 25m, grade 21, 6 bolts & trad The money pitch. Up past 1st bolt, then follow crack up and right. Good cam then traverse left on ledge to bolt on arete. Take a breather and take in the exposure, then power up the arete past and mantle onto ledge. Head right and up to next ledge up large crack / block. DBA on your right on next ledge

Pitch 6 - 15m, grade 16, 1 bolt & trad Short pitch up final headwall with good gear in horizontal cracks. Top out with trad anchor. Easy walk off, follow cairns through tussocks back to camp. Optional swim in the lake on the way down. Good bivvy spot 100m from base of route with water source.

If rappelling the route, take care when pulling the ropes from the 2nd anchor, easy to get ropes stuck. Better to rap the line of anchors to the left (route under development) or walk off