A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Philip C Lars Asp Miles Mason Winther Knut Bjoernebye Thomas Weber Solveig Korherr Michael Cartwright Michael Cartwright Hermann Hegg Stretch Flo Hansen
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Presten 20 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Presten 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: 68.181132, 14.220695
avvicinamento
It´s a small pullout that´s often full in high season. The descent will leave you at the Festvåg carpark so either get dropped off/hitch hike to the base or hitch hike back to your car from the descent trail.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
The descent
Follow path (East) with some exposed scrambling off back of Presten, and down to saddle (68.1800305, 14.2286126). Continue straight up the other side of the saddle, following the ridegline roughly South before joining main hiking track near Festvåg summit (allow 1-2 hours). | |||||||
2 | Himmel og Helvete | 7 | ||||||
3 | To krigere | 7 AID:A3 | ||||||
4 |
★★★ Korstoget
Some excellent crack, slab and face climbing. The physical crux is bolted (and can easily be French freed). Images here: View this post on Instagram FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1992 | 7 PROT:R | 390m, 11, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Ypperstepresten
This route can easily be done in 3 pitches to storhylla by stretching the first belay to a stance close to the roof (55m) and pitch 2 until one of the good ledges above the roof (45/50m). This avoids rope drag and bad communication for the roof pitch (P2). Protection is good (heart in the book dates back to before micro cams/totems) FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Aart Verhage, 1992 | 6 | 220m, 5 | |||||
6 | Biskopen | 6- AID:A0 | ||||||
7 | Søndagskole turen | 7 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ The Codfather
Some images here- View this post on Instagram FA: Mark Garthwaite & Mick Fowler, 1999 | 7 PROT:R | 500m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Reisen
FA: Tom Cosgriff & Sjur Nesheim, 1993 | 7+ | 440m, 11 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Klokkeren
Excellent climbing from Storhylla up the corner system left of Vestpillaren (rejoins at the slanting corner stance). FA: Tommy Nilsson, 1984 | 7- | 150m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Variasjon til en variasjon
Take the crack to the left from the pitch 2 Vestpillaren anchor. It´s nice, well protected climbing that´s handy for passing slower parties. FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Niels Poulsen, 1992 | 6+ | 45m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Joika Ekspressen
A direct route straight up the middle of Presten linking together some excellent pitches from 4 classic routes. Scenic & well protected, it´s a particularly great outing for busy days on the Priest.
FA: Rune Harjo Jensen & Philip C, 2019 | 7 | 400m, 11 | |||||
13 | Vestpillaren Variation Start | 6- | 50m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.
FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1980 | 6 | 480m, 12 | |||||
15 |
★★ Vestpillaren original starten
The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay FA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978 | 5+ | 140m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning
The original finish goes left from the slanting corner ledge.
FA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978 | 7 | 160m, 4 | |||||
17 |
Thunder in Paradise
A variation to the start of Vestpillaren taking thin grooves in the blunt arete to the left. FA: Martin Fransson, Frej Wichmann & Oskar Alexandersson, 2014 | 8- | 120m, 3 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Himmelen kan vente | 6+ | 310m, 9 | |||||
19 | The Altar Boys | AID:A3 | ||||||
20 |
Holy Diver
Best attempted after a dry spell. Reports suggest the black streaked slabs after the 7+ climbing are not so nice when the wall is wet. Some images here- View this post on Instagram | 7+ | 380m, 10 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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5+ | ★★ | Vestpillaren original starten | 140m, 4 | ||
6- | Vestpillaren Variation Start | 50m | |||
6- A0 | Biskopen | ||||
6 | ★★★ | Vestpillaren | 480m, 12 | ||
★★★ | Ypperstepresten | 220m, 5 | |||
6+ | ★★★ | Himmelen kan vente | 310m, 9 | ||
★★ | Variasjon til en variasjon | 45m | |||
7- | ★★★ | Klokkeren | 150m, 4 | ||
7 | Himmel og Helvete | ||||
★★★ | Joika Ekspressen | 400m, 11 | |||
Søndagskole turen | |||||
★★★ | Vestpillaren original avslutning | 160m, 4 | |||
7 A3 | To krigere | ||||
7 R | ★★★ | Korstoget | 390m, 11, 3 | ||
★★★ | The Codfather | 500m, 11 | |||
7+ | Holy Diver | 380m, 10 | |||
★★★ | Reisen | 440m, 11 | |||
8- | Thunder in Paradise | 120m, 3 | |||
? | The descent | ||||
A3 | The Altar Boys |