Vie in Northern Norway del grado selezionato

Up the groove left of P, then step airily right and up to ledge. Here the climbing deteriorates- after clipping bolt over roof it seems like one should climb almost to anchors to left then hand traverse back right to anchors

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here

A serious and sandbagged line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards. Not recommended. Topo here

Images here:

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1. Up the corner on jugs then slabs to a grassy crack. Belay at a good stance below grassy ledges. A long pitch with some short runouts at the beginning.

2. Out left from the grassy ledge & into the base of a left to right corner system. 5/10m of easy stuff then head out onto the arête where there´s a short sequence of hard moves. Continue until reaching a band of darker rock. Step right here to a small stance at the base of a dihedral.

3. Steep finger jamming up the diherdral. Belay at good stance in a corner. An excellent pitch

4. Straight up (loose) then out right where a short steep section gains the terrace.

5. Ignore the guidebook and go straight up the clean crack to a good ledge.

6. Rock quality deteriorates from here. There´s a comfy belay ledge 20m past the roof.

7. More of the same to another big ledge on the corner.

8. Og igjen..

> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on NBT

Some images-

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The direct finish to Första approximationen

Topo here

Climb the inside corner, tricky move just before the end.

Slab climbing then a jug fest to the chains

The first route put up. Flowing movement up the scoop leads to crux just belay the chains

An easy starts lures you into the darkness. A unique route in this style for Lofoten

The extenstion to Is this all, Sophie?

The left route.

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof.

2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge.

3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge.

4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay.

5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance.

Some images here-

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This finger crack in the LF corner is attractive but somewhat difficult

The roof crack. Big cam needed.

Reputation for some nice, but heavily sandbagged climbing (N8-) 2 x 60m ropes needed for the rapp.

Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde..

A mixed route characterised by safe but runout slab climbing

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This route can easily be done in 3 pitches to storhylla by stretching the first belay to a stance close to the roof (55m) and pitch 2 until one of the good ledges above the roof (45/50m). This avoids rope drag and bad communication for the roof pitch (P2).

Protection is good (heart in the book dates back to before micro cams/totems)