Ascensioni in Oceania da Dave Scarlett

Ridiculously hard start for the grade.

Very thin crimps, squeezed temptingly close to the easier trad lines. Getting to the first bolt isn't too bad, but moving to the second bolt is hard. Awkward anchor position if you're short.

Thought provoking through the middle, then tough cranking through the roof to finish. Mostly small cams and nuts, but a BD #2 was handy through the roof.

Difficult to know where the route is supposed to go. The bolts go through a very blank section where the bulges are, so climbing the weakness left of the bolts made the most sense.

Started as for Crimp da buttock, since that was a cleaner and more direct line than the description's suggestion of starting in the vegetated crack. Very nice and consistent climbing once you hit the corner.

Low crux, then almost pointlessly easy rambling above that.

Too much friction to pull the rope we rappelled in on, so had to rope-solo up to fix it! Easy bridging.

Amazing position at the grade and better protected than the guidebook claims, as long as you save a big (BD #3 or #4) cam for the big pocket around the arete.

A little run out on the middle.

The vertical, wide crack thrutch at the top seems like an unreasonable ask at the alleged grade.

Thin and cruxy through the middle, before the juggy roof finish brings relief. Took one rest at the crux.

If the starting moves were half way up the route, this would probably be graded 20. Very nice climbing once you're through there bouldery start, but definitely not recommended for those only just leading 14!

Amazing! Full value and very thought provoking at the grade. A little reachy in parts, and often gives you good hands or feet, but not both. Gear wasn't bad, and I managed to sew it up with 9 very solid placements, mostly small nuts and micro to loose fingers sized cams. Double ropes helped a lot by allowing wandering placements without rope drag, and the gear in the first half was all there, but certainly trickier than the top half. Didn't use any RPs, but it looked like they could awkwardly be placed in the middle of the sickle crack crux. Much easier to just place a good cam at the start and end of the crack. The chimney and traverse start is easy, and I didn't bother protecting it. Just consider it part of the walk in instead if you don't like it.

Very thin at the start, but gets a lot easier after the second bolt. Stick-clip highly advisable!

Jugs. Definitely a lot softer than the claimed grade.

Tree to the left of the boulder seems to have gotten a lot bigger and is seriously encroaching on this route. Still looks possible at maybe V1-V2 with a sit-start.

Very nice, and a little reminiscent of Spiegal's Overhang at Cathedral Range. Shame it's a bit harder to descend from!

As with Spiegal's, pitch 3 is the money pitch.

Partial shade at the 2nd and 3rd belays. Final pitch finishes at a ledge with options to walk left to join Syrinx, or walk right to presumably reach the wheelchair lookout. You can also continue straight up through the short overhang, extending the pitch length to about 40m, to get to the very top, then walk left and scramble down to the Missing Link/Bluffs area.

Insanely close bolt spacing, but maybe good for new leaders. Hard moves through the big horizontal break at 3-4m height. Start the climb a few meters to the left if you're short.

Easy slab climbing, with plenty of good rest stances. Bolt spacing may be a little intimidating for those only just leading at the grade, but there were also a few placements for mid-range sized cams.

Hand moves coming out of the cave, then pumpy until the finish. One rest two bolts from the anchor.

Mildly stiff start then lots of rest stances.

Crimpy start, then eases with rest opportunities.

Difficult moves approaching (reachy) and after (crimpy) the big horizontal break.

Good to get some extra length, but the final, easy push through the roof is a bit contrived.

Nice face climbing, but with a hard starting move that's probably more like grade 15. Found the gear to be fine, getting in 8-9 good, evenly-spaced pieces. Big gear unnecessary as you can alternatively just sling a bollard at the front of the big horizontal break.

Lovely arete climbing, possibly a bit soft at the grade, though made serious by very fiddly protection. Shame about the manufactured foothold at the start and the awkwardly set-back anchors at the top.

Lovely climbing, with a difficult (though avoidable) start and another tricky section through the roof. Beware, it is completely unprotected from the start of the ramp until after after the roof unless you have a #5 cam, with the exception of an old carrot bolt that the guidebook tells you not to trust.

Very inconsistent, with one grade 18-19 move through the scoop, and everything else being much easier.

Nice bridging and pulling on jugs through the overhang.

Pumpy, then an exciting, reachy finish with an ok rest preceding it.

P1 nice slabbing but poorly protected, maybe up to 5m runouts, and is probably the crux pitch. P2 more slabbing around a bush-filled crack. P3 is the money pitch, beautiful climbing up a corner crack and two overhangs (at grade 10!), with jamming being strictly optional. P4 easy climbing up a trench and slabs to the top.

All belays except for the end of P3 are narrow stances, so wouldn't recommend climbing this as a three. Rappel anchors (2 x 55m rappels) are only 10-15m left of the end of the climb, below a tree, and the path marked is by a couple of cairns.

Gear: Cams from finger size up to loose hands (Camalot #2).

Nice climbing with plenty of good edges to keep it comfortable, and very generously bolted by You Yangs standards.

Steep, finger crack finish adds a bit of value to the route.

Requires a bit of jamming and grovelling. Definitely not one for gym climbers who are new to the outdoors.

Had totally forgotten the sequence to this.

Finish up the arete for maximum value.

Surprisingly tricky start, both in terms of moves and protection.

Good, but beware that there's very little protection in the (easier) first half.

A tricky start and some painful hand jams.

Quite good, despite its short length, with some nice bridging and laybacking.

An awkward thrutch getting into the bulging hand crack, and once you're there you might have hand jams, but still no feet!

An early crux pulling through the bulge on sparse holds, then cruisy to the top. Mostly small nut pro, big cams unnecessary. Looked like a decent belay ledge at 30-35m.

Committing moves through the mantle, with decent protection but the potential to swing into a side-wall if you come off.