Ascensioni in Oceania da Ben Vincent

a little less clean than it's little sibling below, but high quality and very unique! Great to get up the pair on a tight timeframe!

Erm nah. Not in this lifetime. Tantalising close but to being all there but it wasn’t.

Rolled in late feeling flat but summoned the courage to get back on this. First attempt went way smoother than last week but I ended up dripping blood on Alec and taking a mini whipper at the crux. Regrouped, retaped and tried again and somehow managed to sort the beta out enroute and get through the crux section by the finest of margins. It was all only just in the end and definitely one of my more memorable sends. Right up there with the best routes in Ebor.

An absolute brute of a battle getting aquainted with this line. I certainly drew some blood.

As hard and as sharp as nails. I thought I’d get back into it pretty quickly but turns out I had to relearn the beta…it was coming back to me by the end. Good to get gear placements sorted.

A very nice, high quality line! After a long hiatus I was fortunate enough to milk the rest and find some endurance.

The top section felt like I was throwing choss at Simon but will clean up further. The bottom 2/3rds is really high quality jamming with options for the top out.

A really clean, stonking good line with great jams and pro. Stonking was the word of the day.

Very pleased to get to the end of the roof clean, and following an attempt and a rest, pull through the crux and place some pro. For whatever silly reason the three of us forgot to pack the large #4 and #5 cams and so I was happy to retreat above a #3 before the flaring off-width using our fixed static. A really good route, may even warrant 25.

An engaging experience. I loved the helix hug deep in the crack around the back of the pillars. Short but special.

I was a bit spent by this point. Got up it okay but was working at the top. Went for the pure crack ascent also which got tricky at the top out. surprised not to completely crumble the chossy finish hold and blow my top out. I was reefing on that thing only to easily remove it from above 😐 nice lead Skippy.

An engaging experience. I loved the helix hug deep in the crack around the back of the pillars. Short but special.

Lowered in with plenty of gear so thought I should use it. Nice features. Surely been done before.

A sweet finish to a great day.

Felt much smoother than my previous session but ended up being the gnarliest of fights. I got super close on my first burn and, leaving nothing in the tank, was pretty fortunate to pull through on my second shot. One of my most favourite/memorable routes at Ebor.

Been wanting to try this gem for a long time. Was dissapointed to see the nearby waterfall blowing horizontally onto and drenching the route. But then Volo got on it anyway and said it was great so I was inspired. Incredible route with the experience made all the more richer by the wet, windy conditions. Full focus and extra grunt required. Trad fix aquired.

Such a great test piece. Always lets me know where my trad head is at. Had to work hard to gain the rest under the roof but calmed down after that and then cruised the lip of the roof which was a pleasant surprise.

quicker and less goaty than the cave...

Gravelly. Mega potential.

FFA. I’ll always remember the first time Skippy and I stood beneath this grand granite roof staring up dumbstruck at the splitter crack that runs through the heart of it. From that moment on it became somewhat of an obsession. Armed with honed beta, extra chinnies and an anticipated cool southerly change, I finally got up it clean on my very last attempt before the rain arrived and a planned leave of absence set in. This one was a team effort. Massive fist pumps to fellow roof crack froth-dogs, Skippy and Benji. May both of you always ‘just gonna send it’.

A really beaut line in a fantastic setting.

Not quite as 'classic' as we were expecting but still good fun. Even got to use the homemade BBB's (Bloody Big Bro's).

A very memorable route. Thought it'd be nice to get on and have a nice easy, airy wander up a grade 16.... not quite. A committing route for the grade with sections of sparse protection, moist or loose rock and some really neat exposure. The two grassy ledges were great for a half-height picnic and it was nice to sort out the mess of a description for the end of the 3rd pitch. Skippy took an exciting tumble/bounce down the waterfall face and was arrested by a #5 BD microwire after a good sized block decided it wanted to relocate itself. Really interesting, engaging climbing and totally up there with FOTP in my books.

What a day out. A late arival to camp had us at the base of FOTP by 10am. In hindsight the route is quite obvious. At the time, however, it was not. Traversed way too far left on P1 and belayed at the big obvious shrub below the corner with two pitons (probably SJ). This meant that we probably didn't even do FOTP P2 but wandered up past said pitons on some other route (probably SJ) and way over and above the P2 belay ledge. I wandered about in circles on the slab 20m above and L of the wing for an age and found a small belay ledge for some other route with an old rusty hex and a sling (likely LD). Down climbed to retrieve my sparse pro before using the corner of SJ do get back onto the ramp and finally located the tat down the R-hand end of the ramp - pretty obvious in hindsight. We probably didn't rap far enough on P3, but found some good med cam placements behind a large hanging block. P4 was great with good exposure. In fading light I took P5 too far up and R and clearly missed the orange rock swinging L. That meant P6 started below some hanging blocks but we spied the nose before sunset and knew where to finish. We got back on route in the dark halfway through this pitch and really enjoyed it and P7. Got back to Balor at 11:30pm and it was all totally worth it - 15.5 hours hut to hut, what a pair of Bungle newbs ;-)

Ermagerd. Deliverance Delivers. This the first route at the breakaway is a stunner. With cold fingers and flash pump I had to work hard for this one. Really great route and good sesh on it with Benj and Skippy.

Wow. Deliverance certainly can't produce two spectacularly good routes right next to each other can it...? Aparently so. Sick find Skippy! Got it clean on TR, then followed up with a clean lead on gear which Skippy reckons took me close to an hour...(surely not?!). A delicate techy start complete with an unsuspecting wild finish.

Stick to the face on lead. Maybe worth getting on once you've done everything else..

a great route

A burly finish, but def all there once you sort the beta.

Recycled gear lead and clean

A good line with interesting moves. Not the pick of the lines available, but not a bad one either and we were so excited that we just had to get started on something and so this was it.

Just enough time to squeeze in this absolute bottler of a route. I expected it to really ramp up but it was fairly consistent. This sort of stuff puts a smile on your face for days.

Watched Skippy froth his way up this and send it in style. I soon joined in on the froth-fest. A special, high quality find.

If you're after trad and jamming practice, this Ebor gem is it. Throw on your BD's size 1-3 and plug your way up 10m of juicy goodness.

Clearly been a while since the last ascent. I dusted off a fair bit of dry lichen and dust with each hand and foot placement which was promptly channeled up the crack and into my face and eyes by the windy westerly. Just added to the experience. Another quality Ebor route.

So good. This route is bit of an Ebor yardstick for me, so was pretty keen to see how it'd go down. Things were all going so well, plugged the rooflet and cruised under teh hanging pillar to get established in the vertical section. Thought I had plenty of juice left but got quickly pumped trying to clip my pro and was happy to have a little breather before finishing it off. Al tried the impressive undercling style variant through the rooflet and was making it look pretty good before getting a little tied up in my slings.