Munții Bistriței Tutte Arrampicata su ghiaccio 1 via in area

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Boar encounters

General: Icefall near Zugreni cabin, on the right bank of the Bistrita River valley. 2km hike from the first bridge downstream (at first, easy, mellow terrain through coniferous forest, on animal paths, then increasingly difficult terrain, with a high risk of falling in the river, finishing with a short rappel near the waterfall), or, in very cold winters, 5 minutes approach by crossing the frozen river.

Access: Cross the Bistrita River at the first bridge downstream and follow the visible forestry road back towards the icefall for about 500m, go past some houses, then leave it and ascend in the coniferous forest on the left side, and follow one of the animal paths that maintains the same elevation. Follow the desired path until you reach the last cliff before the icefall and abseil for around 15m to get to the left side of the base of the waterfall. Take extra care when nearing the end of the path, as there is a high risk of falling and the terrain is very exposed.

Cautions: Although only 30m in height, due to the often brittle nature of the crystalline schist bedrock, as well as the fact that its ledges create a big overhang, the ice can be quite thin and brittle, chandeliered, with very few opportunities for placing screws (although past years have seen the formation of much more compact and thick ice).

Additional information: Conversely, top rope can also be set, on some of the trees above the icefall, but this requires a tremendous detour and descent into the stream way upstream, as the terrain is quite steep and it might involve either a solo on grade 4 terrain, or as stated above, a very big detour and a series of rappels.