Ascensioni in Romania che possiede trad-cpr o ascent-date

Layback central

Pitch 2A of the topo. The giga-alveole is really cool

Pitch 2B of the topo, to minimize time spent in the rockfall-exposed next belay

Pitches 3 and 4 of the topo. The chimney was amazing

Pretty cool flake pull here

At this point I was beginning to wilt. Coffeine helped as usual.

Aidered the entire starting crack, climbed the dihedral but rested on the rope a lot.

Almost managed to git'er done without rope drag. Almost.

The crux cracks proved a bit stressful

Didn't remember there being a belay/rap station above Grotei. For the better, rope drag is a bitch

Se urca tot tancul pana la baza unui perete cu o fisura pe dreapta.

Se începe pe diedru/fisura, apoi se merge oblic stângă pe fata. Pasul traseului se regăsește pe la mijloc pe fata, bine asigurat. Se continua in sus puțin sinuos (dreapta, apoi stânga). Se trece un prag pentru a ajunge in regrupare, care e la baza unui diedru.

La început un diedru frumos, apoi se iese pe o brana unde e o regrupare intermediară (35m). Se poate regrupa aici pentru a evita frecarea corzilor, sau continua in sus încă 15m pana la o brana largă cu tufe.

Se continua in sus fără dificultăți pana la ieșirea in platou. Regrupare comoda pe iarba.

Linked with the previous one

Left exit

Friable, dirty crap

Took flight with a rock the size of my head... same hold my 3kg lighter partner had put his whole weight on, on lead above crap pitons. No bueno. Spent some time working the moves in the overhang, felt quite proud to eventually manage it without aid. Couldn't do stuff like that last year. The lovely dihedral people mention is... fine I guess, but also short and bushy. Said fuck it and went home

stepped on a snail right before the layback dihedral. Do not recommend

Stopped a bit in the crux - far less scary than it was the first time though. Far less rope drag on halfropes too

Wet

New belay station right after the old tree. Rapping down the line can be done in 4 raps on 60m halfropes (unite pitches 2 and 3). Next time I'm doing it with my ropes on me tho, they got tangled in all possible bushes

Lungime de transfer.

A bit of chimneying and some water ice . Uncomfortable belay on 2 pitons with cordelette

Mostly low-angle and runout, not very well protectable with screws. Belay on 2 bulldogs and 1 knifeblade on a ledge at the right of the route, using the "official" belay (1 piton) as a Jesus piece

20m of delicate climbing on a verglas-covered dihedral, protected mostly on gear and not a lot of it either, then 1 good rest with a new knifeblade in it (hammered in upside down and only halfway in, but I couldn't remove the thing, and I tried...) before 1 oblique verglassy flaring chimney (crux of the pitch) and easy terrain to the belay (2 pitons, hanging belay if you're short). As a second, it's beautiful, beautiful climbing...

Smooth-walled dihedral, with a line of frozen grass in the middle. As the dihedral gets steeper and almost overhanging at times, the grass line gets narrower and rock feet become necessary. Right before the ridge exit, there's an overhanging boulder. The summer UIAA 6 grade is probably correct (slightly overhanging layback on great handholds and high-adherence feet) but that solution doesn't work in crampons, and if too little ice forms on it the free climbing solution (a traverse to the left on really sketchy holds) is apparently M7/8. Me I just climbed the pitons ;p

Simulled the rest of the ridge

Pulled on one piton since, with another team behind us, I was under the impression we were in a hurry. Was informed that we weren't.

Chimney is fun as hell

Lovely day out on a sunny, snowed up ridge.

Pitons pulled: 1 on the slab above the belay since I'd land on the other team if I slipped, 2 in the crux dihedral

Really, really cool climbing otherwise, Slabs and traverses on fine feet up to the dihedral, then a light but very fun cracked slab - alternating between offwidth moves on the left appendages and finesse slab on the right appendages is really interesting