Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Falesia | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Via ferrata | |||||||||
C C/D | Traseu Memorial Wild Ferenc | 200m | Bicaz Gorge | Mar 25 Mag 2021 | |||||
C | Via Ferrata Astragalus - Traseul 1 | 450m | Cheile Șugăului | Mar 1 Giu 2021 | |||||
C | Sky Fly - con Bakó Dóra | 350m | Cheile Turzii | Gio 28 Ott 2021 | |||||
C | Sky Fly | 350m | Cheile Turzii | Gio 28 Ott 2021 | |||||
C | Sky Fly | 350m | Cheile Turzii | Sab 8 Mag 2021 | |||||
B | Via Ferrata din Peretele Zânelor | 140m | Vadu Crişului | Dom 9 Mag 2021 | |||||
C | ★★ Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Bakó Ádám | 210m | Vadu Crişului | Sab 16 Apr 2022 | |||||
C | ★★ Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Alexander Jäger | 210m | Vadu Crişului | ★★★ Classica | Dom 1 Mag 2022 | ||||
NOAPTEA
|
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C | ★★ Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Dani B | 210m | Vadu Crişului | ★ Buona | Dom 1 Mag 2022 | ||||
C | Via Ferrata Astragalus - Traseul 1 | 450m | Cheile Șugăului | Dom 22 Mag 2022 | |||||
C | ★★ Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Sylvana | 210m | Vadu Crişului | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 29 Giu 2023 | ||||
C | ★★ Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Erik | 210m | Vadu Crişului | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 29 Giu 2023 | ||||
C | Antivirus | Cheile Galbenului | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | ||||||
D | Amfiteatrul Zmeilor | 250m | Cheile Galbenului | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | |||||
D | Spirala Medie | Cheile Galbenului | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | ||||||
D | Amfiteatrul Zmeilor | 250m | Cheile Galbenului | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | |||||
D | Spirala Medie | Cheile Galbenului | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | ||||||
C | Pantera Roz | 500m | Cheile Galbenului | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | |||||
C | Sky Fly | 350m | Cheile Turzii | Dom 22 Ott 2023 | |||||
C Facile | ★★ Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului | 210m | Vadu Crişului | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 2 Mag 2024 | ||||
B | ★★ Via Ferrata - Montana Land | 170m | Șuncuiuş | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 2 Mag 2024 | ||||
D | ★★ Vânturilor | 250m | Cheile Galbenului | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 9 Mag 2024 | ||||
Trad | |||||||||
8 7a+ A0 | ★★ Umbra Muchiei | 190m, 20 | Bicaz Gorge | ★ Buona | Mer 21 Lug 2021 | ||||
A1 6B |
★★★ Fisura Artei
1
A1 6B
210m
2
3
4
5
| 210m, 20 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 9 Lug 2022 | ||||
7a+ A0 | ★★ Umbra Muchiei | 190m, 20 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 7 Mag 2023 | ||||
7a+ A0 | ★★ Umbra Muchiei | 190m, 20 | Bicaz Gorge | Dom 16 Lug 2023 | |||||
|
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6+ A1 |
★★★ Hermann Buhl
- con
Dana Bazacliu
1
6+ A0
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Split it in two pitches at the intermediate belay since they're not easy pitches anyway. Aided the whole of 1.1, 2 went mostly free.
2
6 A0
25m
Cool exit over the ridge, very bouldery, airy move I couldn't free the first time tho
3
5 A0
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Bushy slog leads to passing a slab blocking the ledge. That'd have been interesting had I not had heatstroke already Took a really annoying pendulum out of the belay
4
6 A1
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
At this point I just wanted everything to be over. Took a pendulum, really flailed passing the crux even on 2 aiders, not my best day. | 150m, 20 | Coștila | Sab 12 Ago 2023 | |||||
Note to self, don't climb this in the heat again. Cool route, very varied, got heatstroke
|
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6+ | Turnul Porumbeilor | 66m, 20 | Cheile Vârghişului | Dom 14 Apr 2024 | |||||
|
|||||||||
★★ Creasta Arpășelului (V-E)
- con
Andrei Badea
1
4
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Badea
2
5
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Badea
3
3
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Badea
4
4
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Badea
| 18 | Făgărașului Massif | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 19 Ago 2022 | |||||
Relatively good pro, with the exception of a slightly spicy diedre on p2.
|
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★★★ Right Ridge - con Ciri, and Radu | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 22 Mag 2015 | |||||
6 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 7 Feb 2021 | ||||
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Dom 5 Nov 2017 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Dom 26 Ago 2018 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Dom 27 Ott 2019 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Ven 22 Mar 2019 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Sab 5 Set 2020 | ||||
★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Dom 29 Apr 2018 | |||||
5- A0 |
★★ Traseul Clasic
1
5- A0
2
| 78m, 15 | Rarău | ★★★ Classica | Lun 30 Apr 2018 | ||||
5- A0 |
★★ Traseul Clasic
1
5- A0
2
| 78m, 15 | Rarău | ★★★ Classica | Ven 21 Ago 2020 | ||||
6 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 25 Mag 2021 | ||||
5- A0 |
★★ Traseul Clasic
1
5- A0
2
| 78m, 15 | Rarău | ★★★ Classica | Gio 24 Giu 2021 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
6
240m
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Dom 27 Giu 2021 | ||||
6 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Sab 15 Mag 2021 | |||||
6 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Sab 11 Lug 2020 | |||||
6 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică (Creasta Estica) | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Ven 4 Dic 2020 | |||||
5- A0 5- A0 | ★★ Traseul Clasic | 78m, 15 | Rarău | Ven 18 Giu 2021 | |||||
6 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 15 Ago 2021 | ||||
6- A1 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
Valentin Chiriac
1
1
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Valentin Chiriac
2
2
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Valentin Chiriac
5
6-
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Valentin Chiriac
6
3
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Valentin Chiriac
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Sab 30 Ott 2021 | |||||
Utterly classic climb, was honored to be able to lead 2 lengths and do the whole route clean with the exception of 1 aider in the crux of p3 (crux is right at the start, then there's a piton 2m up, then 3m of easy dihedral until the next piton. I did the crux free twice, once to see how the holds for placing a quickdraw work and the other to actually place the quickdraw, if not clip, then decided to save some muscle power for the dihedral rather than do the crux again the third time and risk kissing the belay ledge if I fucked things up near the second piton)
|
|||||||||
A0 4A 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 15 Giu 2019 | ||||
A0 4A |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
Bursuc Sergiu
1
A0 4A
240m
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Mer 11 Mag 2022 | ||||
A0 4A 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 16 Ott 2021 | ||||
A0 4B 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Lun 25 Lug 2022 | ||||
5- A0 |
★★ Traseul Clasic
- con
Doru Buzac, Cosmin Axente
1
3+
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
2
5- A0
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
| 85m, 15 | Rarău | ★ Buona | Ven 5 Ago 2022 | ||||
Did it in 2 pitches, on 60m halfropes. P1 is easy slab, 3 UIAA. P2 starts with a traverse and then heads on a friable chimney (pulled a quickdraw there since I needed to manage some twisted up.ropes). Use extendable quickdraws on it, and a bunch of 120cm ones on the traverse, since there's a/lot of drag otherwise and leader can't hear you through most of it. On retreat, we set up 2 rappels (one 10m and one 25m) to the saddle between the rocks - legend has it that a single 60m is enough, but our 60m didn't reach )
|
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A0 4A 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Sab 17 Set 2022 | ||||
Easy route with beautiful views. Good option for first multi-pitch in the area in my opinion. Just be aware that finding the entrance might be a little tricky if nobody from the team knows it, and at the end you have like a weird grass thing with pretty big distances between the quickdraws but is extremely easy (and there aren't really a lot of places to place them)
|
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6- A1 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
RPF
2
2
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Did it in 2 pitches to minimize rope drag and avoid simulclimbing through p3. Lots of wrestling my mammoth of a sport climbing rope
4
5 A1
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Got pumped at the start, got panicked, improvised an aider out of a sling through the first peg.
5
6- A0
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
\m/ I've seen the crux flake less sewn up on all trad runs. 2 friends and 1 nut for 3 meters of 6- between bolts that feels airy and committing in a way the rest of the pitch isn't. Placed a quick friend so I could calm down enough to place a good nut, didn't trust the nut enough to commit to the move either until I rested on it to know it at least holds body weight, found my balls back (what was left of them) after I could at least imagine the gear would hold a fall, did the move easily (2 jugs on the flake right above one's head means you don't need to layback anything unless you're even shorter than I am), placed another friend as a quicksave and balanced out to the right to the next bolt. Smooth sailing from there on.
6
3
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
No real difficulties left. Placed a nut for morale on the chimney, slithered my way out of it and off to the top | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 23 Ott 2022 | ||||
6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 8 Ott 2022 | ||||
6+ A0 Facile |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 4 Giu 2023 | ||||
6+ 6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică (Creasta Estica) | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 30 Mar 2019 | ||||
5- A0 | ★★ Traseul Clasic | 78m, 15 | Rarău | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 21 Ago 2022 | ||||
6+ Dura Dura | ★★ Fisura Răsucită | 140m, 15 | Coștila | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 30 Lug 2022 | ||||
6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Dom 18 Giu 2023 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Fisura Răsucită | 140m, 15 | Coștila | ★★★ Classica | Ven 23 Giu 2023 | ||||
6+ A0 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
Mara Miron, Andrei Verdeanu
1
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
In approach shoes. Soaking wet, after the rain of the previous day.
2
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
In approach shoes. Soaking wet, after the rain of the previous day.
3
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
In approach shoes. Soaking wet, after the rain of the previous day.
4
arrampicata in lead da
Mara Miron
In approach shoes. Seconding on Mara's lead. Onsighted it like it was nothing.
5
arrampicata in lead da
Mara Miron
In approach shoes. Seconding on Mara's lead. Onsighted it with ease.
6
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
In approach shoes. Decided to swap leads, because of mud and the wet chimney. | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Classica | Mar 4 Lug 2023 | ||||
Decided to lead the first three easy pitches, because of the very wet conditions. Left the hard pitches to Mara to lead. Aced it.
|
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6+ A0 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
Andrei Hohlov
1
arrampicata in lead da
Sergiu Negara
For the first belay station there just one old rusty hook and there's a tree that can be used as a point. I used a friend together with the existing hook. You can also set up the station on the other side of the rock.
2
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Hohlov
Second pitch is a climbing start, then scrambling all the way to the next belay station.
3
arrampicata in lead da
Sergiu Negara
Third rope is a short and nasty one. Relatively hard climbing start and easy walk to the next station.
4
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Hohlov
This is the most interesting pitch, all climbing, with a key point.
5
arrampicata in lead da
Sergiu Negara
Scrambling on loose ground, then climbing to the last belay station, just below the peak. I've used elongated quickdraws to avoid rope friction.
6
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Hohlov
Short and easy climbing to the top | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 30 Lug 2023 | ||||
6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică - con Olesea Sevcenco | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 28 Lug 2023 | ||||
First multipitch, pretty good with nice views!
|
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6+ |
★★ Fisura Răsucită
- con
Mara Miron
1
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
2
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
3
arrampicata in lead da
Andrei Verdeanu
| 140m, 15 | Coștila | Media | Sab 12 Ago 2023 | ||||
Did only the first three pitches. Rapped down through Herman Buhl.
|
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6+ A0 |
★★ Fisura Răsucită
- con
Dana Bazacliu
1
6+ A0
40
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Rested on the rope a lot to try and clear a stuck tricam
2
6+
40
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Pulled on gear on the friable portion and on the face exit
3
4
20
4
6
35
| 140m, 15 | Coștila | Sab 12 Ago 2023 | |||||
6+ A0 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
Victor Rusu
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Ven 8 Set 2023 | ||||
5 A0 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
RPF
| 190m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 23 Set 2023 | ||||
Schenn variant
|
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6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică - con Golodin Iustin | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Dom 30 Ott 2022 | |||||
A0 M5 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
alex
3
M3
arrampicata in lead da
alex
did it in 2 pitches
4
M4
arrampicata in lead da
alex
First time I do this pitch clean, even as a second. must mean drytooling is aid
5
A0 M5
arrampicata in lead da
alex
Completely different fucking story on irons - all my footsmears no longer work. Got super pumped on the biscuit (still can't do a pullup), took me some time until I figured out I could get my right foot behind it. After that, pulled on a draw in the traverse and struggled a bit for the rest of the pitch.... really pumped
6
M3
arrampicata in lead da
alex
Kinda similar to the summer chimneying version | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 30 Dic 2023 | ||||
A completely different route when drytooling. Also found out about an entrance I didn't know
|
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5 A1 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- con
cosmin axente, daniela manole
5
5 A0
arrampicata in lead da
cosmin axente
By this time my hands were not closing on the Biscuit anymore so bailed out on a nut and switched with Cosmin
6
4
arrampicata in lead da
cosmin axente
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 11 Feb 2024 | ||||
Blisters on my hands, from the rope drag. On retreat,tried doing the Wild Ferenc 40m second rappel that avoids the via ferrata. Ended up a 60+m rappel (we had 1 60m and 1 70m rope, and I downclimbed to a good tree with the short rope prussiked to a 240cm sling so I don't lose the end. Ropes stuck something fierce, we ended up pulling them by prussik, crevasse rescue style. Second rap was possibly shorter than 30m, down a gully that looked downclimbable at first but wasn't. A loop of old rope around a boulder tells us we wouldn't have been the first to get tricked lol. I've been informed that the Wild Ferenc option actually exists, so now I have to get back there in daylight next time I'm there with two ropes.
Over all, a really fun day (of the type 2 style, though). Also, think I figured out a way to easily deal with rope drag when seconds are climbing using 1 extra quickdraw, but it requires either having 1 second or 2 seconds that move pretty simultaneously. |
|||||||||
6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 28 Apr 2024 | ||||
5- A0 | ★★ Traseul Clasic | 78m, 15 | Rarău | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 3 Mag 2024 | ||||
|
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6+ A0 | ★★★ Creasta Estică - con Ioana Felea | 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | ★ Buona | Lun 1 Mag 2023 | ||||
good rock, beautifull view
|
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6+ A0 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 240m, 15 | Bicaz Gorge | Lun 6 Mag 2024 | |||||
6 A0 |
★★ Muchia Panseluţei
- con
andrei badea
1
4
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Quite friable, especially on grassy bits. Takes some small friends as pro.
2
5+
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Straight up and onward, Bucegi starting to smoke up at our backs. Nearly missed the belay, this seemed to pass like a dream
3
5+
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
The airy chimney pitch. I barely remember the moves, just the fear and the moving forward smoothly... Didn't see the downclimb piton so I used a friend instead. Right mess at the belay, rope drag like nobody's business
4
6 A0
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Behind us, Bucegi mountains are in a full storm. Ahead, the crux pitch. Get through this and it'll be fine. The crux is at the start, an unprotected traverse on smears and then a few m of dihedral with no good left holds for hand or foot. Lone bolt in the middle of the dihedral can just about be reached by my taller second, so I do the traverse protected and take 4 tries to get through the dihedral. Long live mobiles even when you don't place any, was digging out a potential nut placement on top of the dihedral and found the perfect left jug. Rest of the pitch went smoothly, not in the least because of me being willing to pull on a draw or two
5
4
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Way less runout than the legend says if using mobiles (make sure you have slings) but beware of rope zig zag, I ran out of rope 2m before the belay tree, improvized something out of bushes and boullders. Storm caught up with us by the time I was done with my little gardening project(all fine, life wet). Should have simulled... | 220m, 13 | Muchia Cheii | Dom 23 Apr 2023 | |||||
My first serious full lead. Not rotpunkt, not fast, not without enough mobiles for the whole gd wall... not unafraid, tbh... but in control, and holding on to the sharp end even though common sense and the storm at our backs said otherwise
|
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6 | ★★ Muchia Panseluţei | 220m, 13 | Muchia Cheii | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 3 Giu 2023 | ||||
6 |
★★ Muchia Panseluţei
- con
Cristina Podocea
3
5+
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
Stopped a bit in the crux - far less scary than it was the first time though. Far less rope drag on halfropes too
5
4+
62m
arrampicata in lead da
Ruxandra V
New belay station right after the old tree. Rapping down the line can be done in 4 raps on 60m halfropes (unite pitches 2 and 3). Next time I'm doing it with my ropes on me tho, they got tangled in all possible bushes | 220m, 13 | Muchia Cheii | Sab 23 Mar 2024 | |||||
M4 Dura Dura |
★★★ Creasta Vulturilor
- con
Virgil Litan
| 300m, 12 | Retezat | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 4 Mar 2023 | ||||
Climbing the route in excellent winter conditions. Compact snow, neve and ice in the cracks and gullies, made for really fun, engaging climbing. Clear skies all day long and no wind. Might have set up some belays differently than suggested, but without too much variation. Very nice day out. A rack of friends and nuts was very welcome. 40min approach from the cabin, 5h climbing time and 1:30h return journey (via the Bucura saddle, Custura Bucurei Peak and Berbecilor saddle).
|
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5+ | ★★★ Creasta Vulturilor | 300m, 12 | Retezat | Lun 19 Giu 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Creasta Vulturilor - con AmeB | 300m, 12 | Retezat | ★★★ Classica | Dom 16 Lug 2023 | ||||
Easy, pleasant and with great view over the glacial valley.
|
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5+ | ★★★ Creasta Vulturilor | 300m, 12 | Retezat | Gio 14 Set 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Creasta Vulturilor - con AmeB | 300m, 12 | Retezat | ★★★ Classica | Sab 23 Mar 2024 | ||||
All belay stations (now ~30m apart) were upgraded to bolted anchors.
|
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7- A1 | ★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu | 180m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | Sab 25 Set 2021 | |||||
7- A1 | ★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu | 180m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 14 Mag 2022 | ||||
6 A0 ~A0 ~6+ |
★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu
- con
Dorin Bercea, Marian Anghel
1
5+
30
arrampicata in lead da
Marian Anghel
Fun chimney, not as friable as the legend says. Had to take my backpack off
2
6 A0
45
arrampicata in lead da
Marian Anghel
Starts with a crack dihedral with a rather balancy crux that's easily cheated by means of pulling on a cordelette loop in a piton (which I did). Then you head right and up a chimney with good holds on the left side and very few holds on the right side. Cool kids layback the left side holds, but I took my backpack off and wormed my way through it instead.
3
5+
45
arrampicata in lead da
Marian Anghel
Now life stops being strenuous. It's all about good feet, trusting your balance and pressing rather than pulling on loose holds
4
4+
60
arrampicata in lead da
Marian Anghel
Ridge pitch, one big rock slab waiting to fall in the belay that you need to climb nevertheless,. but very carefully. Make sure you sling the last rock spike, since if you protect it alpine style by tossing the ropes around it they'll untoss themselves as you climb onward on bushy easy slopes, and give your second a 15m swing onto Fata Mare a Hornului. First big flight of my life. Fata Mare a Hornului, btw, is grassy friable bullshit and not really worth climbing. | 180m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 13 Set 2022 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu | 180m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | ★ Buona | Sab 14 Mag 2022 | ||||
Last pitch is very friable (at some point I couldn't find a single piece of rock stable) and, at that point, the quickdraws are pretty far one from another. I would personally recommend 2-4 pitons since I wouldn't trust the rock for nuts or friends. It can go without but I just felt pretty uncomfortable for me at least in one place.
Also if you go with a single rope that last pitch is creating a lot of friction in the end as you reach a go over a ridge. I also used a climbing loop over a rock and that created more friction but that was needed I feel (unless you feel comfortable to do a small descent with ~8m from last quickdraw). Is just that I should have make it longer. Did an intermediate regroup a few meeters below the top because I wasn't sure where it was, and the rope was extremely hard to drag. Except last pitch I did enjoy the route but I did feel like the second pitch is a lot harder with a backpack. Conclusion: Pitch 1: easy. Pretty rare equipped but I didn't felt like it would need more. Pitch 2: interesting. Not very hard, but not backpack friendly. Pitch 3: my favourite. Nice beautiful climb. Around 6a+/6b I think. Pitch 4: I feel like I talked enough, but I didn't enjoy it one bit 😅 |
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6 A1 ~A0 ~6+ |
★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu
- con
RPF, Doru Buzac
1
5+
30
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
wormtime
3
5 A1
50
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
Leg cramp on a trust-your-feet length. Improv aidered my way through the second half rather than waiting for it to pass since it was windy AF and people were waiting - and I couldn't find my way back on the feet sequence anyway
4
3+
60
arrampicata in lead da
RPF
Rather than the original ridge length, we did a bolted version that traverses to the right into Fata Mare a Hornului Rosu, and climbed the final gully of that. Much less friable than the original, far better pro, but far less cool | 190m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 2 Ott 2022 | ||||
6+ A1 |
★★ Creasta Coarnele Caprei
- con
Dana Bazacliu
1
4+
40
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.
2
6+ A0
50
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay. First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70
3
5-
60
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem
4
6-
30
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.
5
3
30
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack
6
6 A1
60
arrampicata in lead da
Dana Bazacliu
My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap | 270m, 10 | Piatra Craiului | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 9 Set 2023 | ||||
Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.
|
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7- Dura |
★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu
- con
Doru Buzac
1
5+
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
2
7-
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
3
6+
50m
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
4
4+
55m
arrampicata in lead da
Doru Buzac
| 180m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | Mer 4 Lug 2018 | |||||
7- Dura |
★★ Creasta Hornului Roşu
- con
Mara Miron
4
4+
55m
| 180m, 10 | Bicaz Gorge | Orrenda | Dom 11 Feb 2024 | ||||
Rotten piece of shit.
|
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6 | ★★★ Prieteniei | 120m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 8 Mag 2021 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Prieteniei | 120m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 19 Set 2021 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Prieteniei
- con
Bakó Dóra, Gyorgyevics Lóránt
1
5+
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
2
6
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
3
5+
15m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
4
3
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
5
3
15m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
| 130m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | Lun 1 Mag 2023 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Prieteniei
- con
Gyorgyevics Lóránt, Bakó Ádám
1
5+
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
2
6
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
3
5+
15m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
4
3
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
5
3
15m
arrampicata in lead da
Gyorgyevics Lóránt
| 130m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | Lun 1 Mag 2023 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Prieteniei | 120m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | Dom 18 Giu 2023 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Prieteniei | 120m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | Mar 25 Lug 2023 | |||||
|
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6 | ★★★ Prieteniei - con AmeB, HAX | 120m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | ★★★ Classica | Dom 30 Apr 2023 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Prieteniei - con Silvia | 120m, 7 | Cheile Aiudului | ★★★ Classica | Sab 11 Mag 2024 |