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1 - 100 di 5,735 ascensioni.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Falesia Qualità Arrampicatore Data
Via ferrata
C C/D Traseu Memorial Wild Ferenc Via ferrata 200m Bicaz Gorge
Bursuc Sergiu
Mar 25 Mag 2021
C Via Ferrata Astragalus - Traseul 1 Via ferrata 450m Cheile Șugăului
Robi
Mar 1 Giu 2021
C Sky Fly - con Bakó Dóra Via ferrata 350m Cheile Turzii
Bakó Ádám
Gio 28 Ott 2021
C Sky Fly Via ferrata 350m Cheile Turzii
Bakó Dóra
Gio 28 Ott 2021
C Sky Fly Via ferrata 350m Cheile Turzii
Mihnea Curutiu
Sab 8 Mag 2021
B Via Ferrata din Peretele Zânelor Via ferrata 140m Vadu Crişului
Mihnea Curutiu
Dom 9 Mag 2021
C Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Bakó Ádám Via ferrata 210m Vadu Crişului
Bakó Dóra
Sab 16 Apr 2022
C Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Alexander Jäger Via ferrata 210m Vadu Crişului Classica
Dani B
Dom 1 Mag 2022
NOAPTEA

 
C Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Dani B Via ferrata 210m Vadu Crişului Buona
Alexander Jäger
Dom 1 Mag 2022
C Via Ferrata Astragalus - Traseul 1 Via ferrata 450m Cheile Șugăului
Dan Ciubotaru
Dom 22 Mag 2022
C Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Sylvana Via ferrata 210m Vadu Crişului Molto buona
Erik
Gio 29 Giu 2023
C Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului - con Erik Via ferrata 210m Vadu Crişului Molto buona
Sylvana
Gio 29 Giu 2023
C Antivirus Via ferrata Cheile Galbenului
Marius B
Sab 19 Ago 2023
D Amfiteatrul Zmeilor Via ferrata 250m Cheile Galbenului
Marius B
Sab 19 Ago 2023
D Spirala Medie Via ferrata Cheile Galbenului
Marius B
Sab 19 Ago 2023
D Amfiteatrul Zmeilor Via ferrata 250m Cheile Galbenului
Marius B
Sab 19 Ago 2023
D Spirala Medie Via ferrata Cheile Galbenului
Marius B
Sab 19 Ago 2023
C Pantera Roz Via ferrata 500m Cheile Galbenului
Marius B
Sab 19 Ago 2023
C Sky Fly Via ferrata 350m Cheile Turzii
brsbikes
Dom 22 Ott 2023
C Facile Via Ferrata Casa Zmeului Via ferrata 210m Vadu Crişului Molto buona
Alex
Gio 2 Mag 2024
B Via Ferrata - Montana Land Via ferrata 170m Șuncuiuş Molto buona
Alex
Gio 2 Mag 2024
D Vânturilor Via ferrata 250m Cheile Galbenului Molto buona
Alexander Jäger
Gio 9 Mag 2024
Trad
8 7a+ A0 Umbra Muchiei Trad mista 190m, 20 Bicaz Gorge Buona
Răzvan Ababei
Mer 21 Lug 2021
A1 6B Fisura Artei
1 A1 6B 210m
2
3
4
5
Trad mista 210m, 20 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Bursuc Sergiu
Sab 9 Lug 2022
7a+ A0 Umbra Muchiei Trad mista 190m, 20 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Bursuc Sergiu
Dom 7 Mag 2023
7a+ A0 Umbra Muchiei Trad mista 190m, 20 Bicaz Gorge
Camelia Langa
Dom 16 Lug 2023
https://youtu.be/7LwBrGZouvQ

 
6+ A1 Hermann Buhl - con Dana Bazacliu
1 6+ A0 40m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

Split it in two pitches at the intermediate belay since they're not easy pitches anyway. Aided the whole of 1.1, 2 went mostly free.

2 6 A0 25m Da secondo

Cool exit over the ridge, very bouldery, airy move I couldn't free the first time tho

3 5 A0 40m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

Bushy slog leads to passing a slab blocking the ledge. That'd have been interesting had I not had heatstroke already Took a really annoying pendulum out of the belay

4 6 A1 40m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

At this point I just wanted everything to be over. Took a pendulum, really flailed passing the crux even on 2 aiders, not my best day.

Trad mista 150m, 20 Coștila
Ruxandra V
Sab 12 Ago 2023
Note to self, don't climb this in the heat again. Cool route, very varied, got heatstroke

 
6+ Turnul Porumbeilor Trad mista 66m, 20 Cheile Vârghişului
Camelia Langa
Dom 14 Apr 2024
https://youtu.be/mDvjXEDWqQg

 
Creasta Arpășelului (V-E) - con Andrei Badea
1 4 arrampicata in lead da Andrei Badea
2 5 arrampicata in lead da Andrei Badea
3 3 arrampicata in lead da Andrei Badea
4 4 arrampicata in lead da Andrei Badea
Trad mista 18 Făgărașului Massif Molto buona
Ruxandra V
Ven 19 Ago 2022
Relatively good pro, with the exception of a slightly spicy diedre on p2.

 
Right Ridge - con Ciri, and Radu Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Molto buona
Jim Olsen
Ven 22 Mag 2015
6 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Lucian Oprea
Dom 7 Feb 2021
Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Dom 5 Nov 2017
6 Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Dom 26 Ago 2018
6 Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Dom 27 Ott 2019
6 Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Ven 22 Mar 2019
6 Creasta Estică
1
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Sab 5 Set 2020
Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Dom 29 Apr 2018
5- A0 Traseul Clasic
1 5- A0
2
Trad mista 78m, 15 Rarău Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Lun 30 Apr 2018
5- A0 Traseul Clasic
1 5- A0
2
Trad mista 78m, 15 Rarău Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Ven 21 Ago 2020
6 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Bursuc Sergiu
Mar 25 Mag 2021
5- A0 Traseul Clasic
1 5- A0
2
Trad mista 78m, 15 Rarău Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Gio 24 Giu 2021
6 Creasta Estică
1 6 240m
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Dom 27 Giu 2021
6 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
Alexandru Ionita
Sab 15 Mag 2021
6 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
Iliescu
Sab 11 Lug 2020
6 6+ A0 Creasta Estică (Creasta Estica) Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
Răzvan Ababei
Ven 4 Dic 2020
5- A0 5- A0 Traseul Clasic Trad mista 78m, 15 Rarău
Alexandru Ionita
Ven 18 Giu 2021
6 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Iliescu
Dom 15 Ago 2021
6- A1 Creasta Estică - con Valentin Chiriac
1 1 45m arrampicata in lead da Valentin Chiriac
2 2 45m arrampicata in lead da Valentin Chiriac
3 2 50m arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V
4 4 A1 25m arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V
5 6- 35m arrampicata in lead da Valentin Chiriac
6 3 40m arrampicata in lead da Valentin Chiriac
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
Ruxandra V
Sab 30 Ott 2021
Utterly classic climb, was honored to be able to lead 2 lengths and do the whole route clean with the exception of 1 aider in the crux of p3 (crux is right at the start, then there's a piton 2m up, then 3m of easy dihedral until the next piton. I did the crux free twice, once to see how the holds for placing a quickdraw work and the other to actually place the quickdraw, if not clip, then decided to save some muscle power for the dihedral rather than do the crux again the third time and risk kissing the belay ledge if I fucked things up near the second piton)

 
A0 4A 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Igor Beliaiev
Sab 15 Giu 2019
A0 4A Creasta Estică - con Bursuc Sergiu
1 A0 4A 240m
2
3
4
5
6
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Mer 11 Mag 2022
A0 4A 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Golodin Iustin
Sab 16 Ott 2021
A0 4B 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Matyas Grof
Lun 25 Lug 2022
5- A0 Traseul Clasic - con Doru Buzac, Cosmin Axente
1 3+ 45m arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac
2 5- A0 40m arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac
Trad mista 85m, 15 Rarău Buona
Ruxandra V
Ven 5 Ago 2022
Did it in 2 pitches, on 60m halfropes. P1 is easy slab, 3 UIAA. P2 starts with a traverse and then heads on a friable chimney (pulled a quickdraw there since I needed to manage some twisted up.ropes). Use extendable quickdraws on it, and a bunch of 120cm ones on the traverse, since there's a/lot of drag otherwise and leader can't hear you through most of it. On retreat, we set up 2 rappels (one 10m and one 25m) to the saddle between the rocks - legend has it that a single 60m is enough, but our 60m didn't reach )

 
A0 4A 6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Bercean Ioan
Sab 17 Set 2022
Easy route with beautiful views. Good option for first multi-pitch in the area in my opinion. Just be aware that finding the entrance might be a little tricky if nobody from the team knows it, and at the end you have like a weird grass thing with pretty big distances between the quickdraws but is extremely easy (and there aren't really a lot of places to place them)

 
6- A1 Creasta Estică - con RPF
1 4 Artificiale arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

An initial moment of worry and pulling on quickdraws

2 2 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

Did it in 2 pitches to minimize rope drag and avoid simulclimbing through p3. Lots of wrestling my mammoth of a sport climbing rope

3 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF

Saving some time by having the much faster climber do this one

4 5 A1 Artificiale arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

Got pumped at the start, got panicked, improvised an aider out of a sling through the first peg.

5 6- A0 Artificiale arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

\m/

I've seen the crux flake less sewn up on all trad runs. 2 friends and 1 nut for 3 meters of 6- between bolts that feels airy and committing in a way the rest of the pitch isn't. Placed a quick friend so I could calm down enough to place a good nut, didn't trust the nut enough to commit to the move either until I rested on it to know it at least holds body weight, found my balls back (what was left of them) after I could at least imagine the gear would hold a fall, did the move easily (2 jugs on the flake right above one's head means you don't need to layback anything unless you're even shorter than I am), placed another friend as a quicksave and balanced out to the right to the next bolt. Smooth sailing from there on.

6 3 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

No real difficulties left. Placed a nut for morale on the chimney, slithered my way out of it and off to the top

Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Ruxandra V
Dom 23 Ott 2022
6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Alin Oprisa
Sab 8 Ott 2022
6+ A0 Facile Creasta Estică
1 Trad
2 Trad
3 Trad
4 Trad
5 Trad
6 Trad
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Molto buona
Sabina D.
Dom 4 Giu 2023
6+ 6+ A0 Creasta Estică (Creasta Estica) Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Razvan Ariciuc
Sab 30 Mar 2019
5- A0 Traseul Clasic Trad mista 78m, 15 Rarău Molto buona
Razvan Ariciuc
Dom 21 Ago 2022
6+ Dura Dura Fisura Răsucită Trad mista 140m, 15 Coștila Molto buona
Maier Horatiu
Sab 30 Lug 2022
6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
Tricknology
Dom 18 Giu 2023
6+ Fisura Răsucită Trad mista 140m, 15 Coștila Classica
Sabina D.
Ven 23 Giu 2023
6+ A0 Creasta Estică - con Mara Miron, Andrei Verdeanu
1 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu

In approach shoes. Soaking wet, after the rain of the previous day.

2 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu

In approach shoes. Soaking wet, after the rain of the previous day.

3 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu

In approach shoes. Soaking wet, after the rain of the previous day.

4 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Mara Miron

In approach shoes. Seconding on Mara's lead. Onsighted it like it was nothing.

5 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Mara Miron

In approach shoes. Seconding on Mara's lead. Onsighted it with ease.

6 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu

In approach shoes. Decided to swap leads, because of mud and the wet chimney.

Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Classica
Andrei Verdeanu
Mar 4 Lug 2023
Decided to lead the first three easy pitches, because of the very wet conditions. Left the hard pitches to Mara to lead. Aced it.

 
6+ A0 Creasta Estică - con Andrei Hohlov
1 Trad arrampicata in lead da Sergiu Negara

For the first belay station there just one old rusty hook and there's a tree that can be used as a point. I used a friend together with the existing hook. You can also set up the station on the other side of the rock.

2 Corda dall'alto arrampicata in lead da Andrei Hohlov

Second pitch is a climbing start, then scrambling all the way to the next belay station.

3 Trad arrampicata in lead da Sergiu Negara

Third rope is a short and nasty one. Relatively hard climbing start and easy walk to the next station.

4 Corda dall'alto arrampicata in lead da Andrei Hohlov

This is the most interesting pitch, all climbing, with a key point.

5 Trad arrampicata in lead da Sergiu Negara

Scrambling on loose ground, then climbing to the last belay station, just below the peak. I've used elongated quickdraws to avoid rope friction.

6 Corda dall'alto arrampicata in lead da Andrei Hohlov

Short and easy climbing to the top

Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Molto buona
Sergiu Negara
Dom 30 Lug 2023
6+ A0 Creasta Estică - con Olesea Sevcenco Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Molto buona
Olesea
Ven 28 Lug 2023
First multipitch, pretty good with nice views!

 
6+ Fisura Răsucită - con Mara Miron
1 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
2 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
3 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
Trad mista 140m, 15 Coștila Media
Andrei Verdeanu
Sab 12 Ago 2023
Did only the first three pitches. Rapped down through Herman Buhl.

 
6+ A0 Fisura Răsucită - con Dana Bazacliu
1 6+ A0 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

Rested on the rope a lot to try and clear a stuck tricam

2 6+ 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

Pulled on gear on the friable portion and on the face exit

3 4 20 Da secondo
4 6 35 Da secondo
Trad mista 140m, 15 Coștila
Ruxandra V
Sab 12 Ago 2023
6+ A0 Creasta Estică - con Victor Rusu
1 Trad
2 Trad
3 Trad
4 Trad
5 Trad
6 Trad
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Golodin Iustin
Ven 8 Set 2023
5 A0 Creasta Estică - con RPF
1 3 40 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V
2 4 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF
3 3 25 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V
4 4 A0 15 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF

Waited for nighttime

5 5 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF
6 4 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF
Trad mista 190m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Ruxandra V
Sab 23 Set 2023
Schenn variant

 
6+ A0 Creasta Estică - con Golodin Iustin Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
Lucian Mîrza
Dom 30 Ott 2022
A0 M5 Creasta Estică - con alex
3 M3 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da alex

did it in 2 pitches

4 M4 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da alex

First time I do this pitch clean, even as a second. must mean drytooling is aid

5 A0 M5 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da alex

Completely different fucking story on irons - all my footsmears no longer work. Got super pumped on the biscuit (still can't do a pullup), took me some time until I figured out I could get my right foot behind it. After that, pulled on a draw in the traverse and struggled a bit for the rest of the pitch.... really pumped

6 M3 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da alex

Kinda similar to the summer chimneying version

Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Ruxandra V
Sab 30 Dic 2023
A completely different route when drytooling. Also found out about an entrance I didn't know

 
5 A1 Creasta Estică - con cosmin axente, daniela manole
1 2 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

2 10mm singles. The rope drag.

2 3 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

2 10mm singles. The rope drag.

3 2 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

2 10mm singles. The rope drag.

4 4 A1 Artificiale arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V
5 5 A0 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da cosmin axente

By this time my hands were not closing on the Biscuit anymore so bailed out on a nut and switched with Cosmin

6 4 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da cosmin axente
Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Ruxandra V
Dom 11 Feb 2024
Blisters on my hands, from the rope drag. On retreat,tried doing the Wild Ferenc 40m second rappel that avoids the via ferrata. Ended up a 60+m rappel (we had 1 60m and 1 70m rope, and I downclimbed to a good tree with the short rope prussiked to a 240cm sling so I don't lose the end. Ropes stuck something fierce, we ended up pulling them by prussik, crevasse rescue style. Second rap was possibly shorter than 30m, down a gully that looked downclimbable at first but wasn't. A loop of old rope around a boulder tells us we wouldn't have been the first to get tricked lol. I've been informed that the Wild Ferenc option actually exists, so now I have to get back there in daylight next time I'm there with two ropes.

Over all, a really fun day (of the type 2 style, though). Also, think I figured out a way to easily deal with rope drag when seconds are climbing using 1 extra quickdraw, but it requires either having 1 second or 2 seconds that move pretty simultaneously.

 
6+ A0 Creasta Estică Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
Cristian Macari
Dom 28 Apr 2024
5- A0 Traseul Clasic Trad mista 78m, 15 Rarău Molto buona
Robert Tiganetea
Ven 3 Mag 2024
  • Requires at least 5 extended quickdraws, lots of traversing and bolts placed left-right, especially in pitch 2
  • We had to do 3 rappels, coming down the way we went up, couldn't figure out from the description how to do it in less, beware that two of those rappels were on old and a bit sketchy pitons with rings
  • Make sure to continously warn people gathering at the bottom, the rock is very sketchy and it seems to be a popular spot for pictures down there
  • The climbing itself is very easy
  •  
    6+ A0 Creasta Estică - con Ioana Felea Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge Buona
    Ciprian Brinzoi
    Lun 1 Mag 2023
    good rock, beautifull view

     
    6+ A0 Creasta Estică
    1 Da secondo
    2 Trad
    3 Trad
    4 Trad
    5 Da secondo
    6 Trad
    Trad mista 240m, 15 Bicaz Gorge
    Pantea Ionut
    Lun 6 Mag 2024
    6 A0 Muchia Panseluţei - con andrei badea
    1 4 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    Quite friable, especially on grassy bits. Takes some small friends as pro.

    2 5+ Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    Straight up and onward, Bucegi starting to smoke up at our backs. Nearly missed the belay, this seemed to pass like a dream

    3 5+ Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    The airy chimney pitch. I barely remember the moves, just the fear and the moving forward smoothly... Didn't see the downclimb piton so I used a friend instead. Right mess at the belay, rope drag like nobody's business

    4 6 A0 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    Behind us, Bucegi mountains are in a full storm. Ahead, the crux pitch. Get through this and it'll be fine. The crux is at the start, an unprotected traverse on smears and then a few m of dihedral with no good left holds for hand or foot. Lone bolt in the middle of the dihedral can just about be reached by my taller second, so I do the traverse protected and take 4 tries to get through the dihedral. Long live mobiles even when you don't place any, was digging out a potential nut placement on top of the dihedral and found the perfect left jug. Rest of the pitch went smoothly, not in the least because of me being willing to pull on a draw or two

    5 4 Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    Way less runout than the legend says if using mobiles (make sure you have slings) but beware of rope zig zag, I ran out of rope 2m before the belay tree, improvized something out of bushes and boullders. Storm caught up with us by the time I was done with my little gardening project(all fine, life wet). Should have simulled...

    Trad mista 220m, 13 Muchia Cheii
    Ruxandra V
    Dom 23 Apr 2023
    My first serious full lead. Not rotpunkt, not fast, not without enough mobiles for the whole gd wall... not unafraid, tbh... but in control, and holding on to the sharp end even though common sense and the storm at our backs said otherwise

     
    6 Muchia Panseluţei Trad mista 220m, 13 Muchia Cheii Molto buona
    Vlad Vasilescu
    Sab 3 Giu 2023
    6 Muchia Panseluţei - con Cristina Podocea
    1 3 50m Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V
    2 5+ 35m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Cristina Podocea
    3 5+ 35m Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    Stopped a bit in the crux - far less scary than it was the first time though. Far less rope drag on halfropes too

    4 6 35m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Cristina Podocea

    Wet

    5 4+ 62m Trad arrampicata in lead da Ruxandra V

    New belay station right after the old tree. Rapping down the line can be done in 4 raps on 60m halfropes (unite pitches 2 and 3). Next time I'm doing it with my ropes on me tho, they got tangled in all possible bushes

    Trad mista 220m, 13 Muchia Cheii
    Ruxandra V
    Sab 23 Mar 2024
    M4 Dura Dura Creasta Vulturilor - con Virgil Litan
    1 M4 55 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    2 M3 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Virgil Litan
    3 M3 50 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    4 M4 55 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Virgil Litan
    5 M3 40 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    6 M2 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Virgil Litan
    7 M1 30 Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    Trad mista 300m, 12 Retezat Mega Classica
    Andrei Verdeanu
    Sab 4 Mar 2023
    Climbing the route in excellent winter conditions. Compact snow, neve and ice in the cracks and gullies, made for really fun, engaging climbing. Clear skies all day long and no wind. Might have set up some belays differently than suggested, but without too much variation. Very nice day out. A rack of friends and nuts was very welcome. 40min approach from the cabin, 5h climbing time and 1:30h return journey (via the Bucura saddle, Custura Bucurei Peak and Berbecilor saddle).

     
    5+ Creasta Vulturilor Trad mista 300m, 12 Retezat
    Tricknology
    Lun 19 Giu 2023
    5+ Creasta Vulturilor - con AmeB Trad mista 300m, 12 Retezat Classica
    VladTZ
    Dom 16 Lug 2023
    Easy, pleasant and with great view over the glacial valley.

     
    5+ Creasta Vulturilor Trad mista 300m, 12 Retezat
    Tricknology
    Gio 14 Set 2023
    5+ Creasta Vulturilor - con AmeB Trad mista 300m, 12 Retezat Classica
    VladTZ
    Sab 23 Mar 2024
    All belay stations (now ~30m apart) were upgraded to bolted anchors.

     
    7- A1 Creasta Hornului Roşu Trad mista 180m, 10 Bicaz Gorge
    Igor Beliaiev
    Sab 25 Set 2021
    7- A1 Creasta Hornului Roşu Trad mista 180m, 10 Bicaz Gorge Mega Classica
    Golodin Iustin
    Sab 14 Mag 2022
    6 A0 ~A0 ~6+ Creasta Hornului Roşu - con Dorin Bercea, Marian Anghel
    1 5+ 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Marian Anghel

    Fun chimney, not as friable as the legend says. Had to take my backpack off

    2 6 A0 45 Artificiale arrampicata in lead da Marian Anghel

    Starts with a crack dihedral with a rather balancy crux that's easily cheated by means of pulling on a cordelette loop in a piton (which I did). Then you head right and up a chimney with good holds on the left side and very few holds on the right side. Cool kids layback the left side holds, but I took my backpack off and wormed my way through it instead.

    3 5+ 45 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Marian Anghel

    Now life stops being strenuous. It's all about good feet, trusting your balance and pressing rather than pulling on loose holds

    4 4+ 60 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Marian Anghel

    Ridge pitch, one big rock slab waiting to fall in the belay that you need to climb nevertheless,. but very carefully. Make sure you sling the last rock spike, since if you protect it alpine style by tossing the ropes around it they'll untoss themselves as you climb onward on bushy easy slopes, and give your second a 15m swing onto Fata Mare a Hornului. First big flight of my life. Fata Mare a Hornului, btw, is grassy friable bullshit and not really worth climbing.

    Trad mista 180m, 10 Bicaz Gorge Molto buona
    Ruxandra V
    Mar 13 Set 2022
    6a+ Creasta Hornului Roşu
    1 5 arrampicata in lead da Bercean Ioan
    2 6a+
    3 6a+
    4 5b
    Trad mista 180m, 10 Bicaz Gorge Buona
    Bercean Ioan
    Sab 14 Mag 2022
    Last pitch is very friable (at some point I couldn't find a single piece of rock stable) and, at that point, the quickdraws are pretty far one from another. I would personally recommend 2-4 pitons since I wouldn't trust the rock for nuts or friends. It can go without but I just felt pretty uncomfortable for me at least in one place.

    Also if you go with a single rope that last pitch is creating a lot of friction in the end as you reach a go over a ridge. I also used a climbing loop over a rock and that created more friction but that was needed I feel (unless you feel comfortable to do a small descent with ~8m from last quickdraw). Is just that I should have make it longer. Did an intermediate regroup a few meeters below the top because I wasn't sure where it was, and the rope was extremely hard to drag.

    Except last pitch I did enjoy the route but I did feel like the second pitch is a lot harder with a backpack.

    Conclusion:

    Pitch 1: easy. Pretty rare equipped but I didn't felt like it would need more.

    Pitch 2: interesting. Not very hard, but not backpack friendly.

    Pitch 3: my favourite. Nice beautiful climb. Around 6a+/6b I think.

    Pitch 4: I feel like I talked enough, but I didn't enjoy it one bit 😅

     
    6 A1 ~A0 ~6+ Creasta Hornului Roşu - con RPF, Doru Buzac
    1 5+ 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac

    wormtime

    2 6 A0 45 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF

    Not my best day

    3 5 A1 50 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac

    Leg cramp on a trust-your-feet length. Improv aidered my way through the second half rather than waiting for it to pass since it was windy AF and people were waiting - and I couldn't find my way back on the feet sequence anyway

    4 3+ 60 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da RPF

    Rather than the original ridge length, we did a bolted version that traverses to the right into Fata Mare a Hornului Rosu, and climbed the final gully of that. Much less friable than the original, far better pro, but far less cool

    Trad mista 190m, 10 Bicaz Gorge Molto buona
    Ruxandra V
    Dom 2 Ott 2022
    6+ A1 Creasta Coarnele Caprei - con Dana Bazacliu
    1 4+ 40 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

    Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.

    2 6+ A0 50 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

    Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay.

    First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free

    Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70

    3 5- 60 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

    Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem

    4 6- 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

    Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.

    5 3 30 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

    Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack

    6 6 A1 60 Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Dana Bazacliu

    My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap

    Trad mista 270m, 10 Piatra Craiului Molto buona
    Ruxandra V
    Sab 9 Set 2023
    Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.

     
    7- Dura Creasta Hornului Roşu - con Doru Buzac
    1 5+ 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac
    2 7- 45m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac
    3 6+ 50m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac
    4 4+ 55m Trad arrampicata in lead da Doru Buzac
    Trad mista 180m, 10 Bicaz Gorge
    Andrei Verdeanu
    Mer 4 Lug 2018
    7- Dura Creasta Hornului Roşu - con Mara Miron
    1 5+ 30m Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    2 7- 45m Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    3 6+ 50m Trad arrampicata in lead da Andrei Verdeanu
    4 4+ 55m Trad
    Trad mista 180m, 10 Bicaz Gorge Orrenda
    Andrei Verdeanu
    Dom 11 Feb 2024
    Rotten piece of shit.

     
    6 Prieteniei Trad mista 120m, 7 Cheile Aiudului Mega Classica
    Alin Oprisa
    Sab 8 Mag 2021
    6 Prieteniei Trad mista 120m, 7 Cheile Aiudului Mega Classica
    Alin Oprisa
    Dom 19 Set 2021
    6 Prieteniei - con Bakó Dóra, Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    1 5+ 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    2 6 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    3 5+ 15m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    4 3 40m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    5 3 15m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    Trad mista 130m, 7 Cheile Aiudului
    Bakó Ádám
    Lun 1 Mag 2023
    6 Prieteniei - con Gyorgyevics Lóránt, Bakó Ádám
    1 5+ 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    2 6 30m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    3 5+ 15m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    4 3 40m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    5 3 15m Da secondo arrampicata in lead da Gyorgyevics Lóránt
    Trad mista 130m, 7 Cheile Aiudului
    Bakó Dóra
    Lun 1 Mag 2023
    6 Prieteniei Trad mista 120m, 7 Cheile Aiudului
    Tricknology
    Dom 18 Giu 2023
    6 Prieteniei Trad mista 120m, 7 Cheile Aiudului
    Camelia Langa
    Mar 25 Lug 2023
    https://youtu.be/tV6DJBlmBeg

     
    6 Prieteniei - con AmeB, HAX Trad mista 120m, 7 Cheile Aiudului Classica
    VladTZ
    Dom 30 Apr 2023
    6 Prieteniei - con Silvia Trad mista 120m, 7 Cheile Aiudului Classica
    Marius B
    Sab 11 Mag 2024

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