Vie in Romania del grado selezionato

Very technical top, hard to reach without a quickdraw in the top ring.

Also works as trad

Has two hard sections, a technical one with small holds and small feet around the 4th bolt and a steep overhanging section at the top on not so good holds. Good rests before both harder sections.

Fully repaired and re-bolted, the old pitons are still in place though.

Approach:

From the Ecolog hut follow the red triangle marked hiking trail to the Șugăului rock until you get to a wooden pavilion and continue further for 3-5 minutes and then take a right at an over hanged boulder that has the red triangle until you get to the base of the wall where you will see the start of the route marked with a big white square painted on the rock.

Retreat:

Follow the ridge to the left passing the boulder, approx. 30m. There are some spits for safety. It will get you back to the red triangle hiking trail where you can take a left or right which will get you to the Ecolog hut in approx 30 minutes.

Can be climbed as an extension of the Lynx route from Sector A

Route renovated in march 2023.

Pitch 1: Head up on easy slab towards the fir tree, then at some tree roots take right, towards a very red portion of the rock. Follow a slightly overhanging crack up(it's probably the most interesting portion of the route, cool moves and a rock not very often found in the area) and exit right then slightly left to the base of a wide dihedral where the bolted belay station is. 50m, 7-/7 UIAA

Pitch 2: Follow the dihedral upwards. Slightly more airily bolted/pitoned, but easy terrain and good possibilities for larger mobiles. After ~25 meters, you'll see an old 3-piton belay station on a ledge to the right. The bolted belay is 10 meters higher, so continue following the dihedral up and traverse to the left under a roof to the bolted belay. 30m, 5 UIAA

Pitch 3: Follow a crack upwards (crux of the route, 7/7+ UIAA, can be aided on medium-large nuts/small to medium friends) and reach a ridge. Follow it, and belay at a tree. 40m, 7/7+ UIAA

Route starts with a fairly technical slab, with first bolt being just a plate to place a quickdraw to redirect the rope. No fall zone from ground to second bolt.

Crux is half-way up the route, bolts 4 and 5 after which it's easier. Feels burly in parts and quite technical in the crux on tiny footholds and off balance positions.

Bottom gets quite lichen filled and the grass growing on the slab cracks the rock continuously, if left unchecked, so bottom slab changes each season, depending if there are climbers to clean the clumps of grass or not. Has some areas which you need to use which are almost always wet, but can be avoided. The part between the slab and the left wall is quite chossy and crumbly so you should avoid using it and climb the slab to the right of the first bolt.

Very long and needs sustained effort for long sections. Easy sections are few and short so you can only rest either on the few easier sections or on bad holds.

A well protected route (bolted/natural features belays, occasional bolts on the route itself, the original aid pitons still in place) following a highly aesthetic crack system.

P1: After an initial overhang, traverse to the left until reaching a ledge, then follow a dihedral to the belay (a comfortable ledge with 2 trees)

P2: Head up on a dihedral then traverse left on a small arete, continuing until the base of a 20m long hand-sized crack. At the metal pipe, traverse right, horizontally, until reaching easier ground. Bolted belay.

P3: Traverse/downclimb slightly to the right and follow a slightly overhanging, and then vertical crack on more sustained terrain than P2. Bolted belay.

Punchy and core-intensive right off the deck with an easier finish. Hard for the grade.