BAPM Area Tutte Arrampicata trad 6 vie in falesia

About 50m to the left of the start of BAPM are a series of big red overhangs. The route takes a line through these, finally traversing out to the right. Scramble to a big ledge beneath the overhangs. Start to the right, beneath a steep, broken recess.

1. Pull up into recess then move out immediately right onto ledge. Continue up to another recess & up this to a roof. Rail left under the roof to a ledge. From righthand side of the ledge, pull up into a short off-width crack and climb this to the roof. Traverse to the right under the roof to a grassy ledge. Scramble to the top.

This route climbs the easy rock to the left of BAPM.

1. 30m 10 Diagonally left then up to blocks on ledge.

2. 30m 13 Left along ledge then up grey face to tree on ledge.

3. 30m 12 Traverse right along ledge, then diagonally right to tree on next ledge.

4. 30m 15 Move 7m right along ledge then up to beneath overhang. Traverse some distance left, then up (crux) to the top.

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

BAPM takes a fairly direct line up the buttress opposite the deep 'pothole pool'. Scramble up to small flat overhangs on the lower grey section of the buttress.

1. 15m 10 Climb past the overhangs on the left, step to the right and continue straight up to a large ledge below steep red and black rock.

2. 25m 19 Climb up 2m then undercling to the right to the left hand side of two cracks which form the candleflame shape as seen from below. Move up to the top of the 'flame' and continue up to the right to belay on a small ledge next to a tree.

3. 25m 7 Move around to the right into the main corner, which is followed to large ledges (this portion is common with MARTHA). Climb to the right to the ledge at the foot of the appealing final crack, which runs up a zone of red rock right of an overhang.

4. 25m 21 Follow the crack as it curves up to the right. When it fades, move up and to the left beneath the grey overhang. Traverse to the left past a dubious block until the top can be reached by climbing steep grey, lichen-covered rock (18A1).

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of pitch 2 from where its straightforward to scramble down.

2. It makes sense to do this route in two pitches – scramble past the 1st pitch on the right, and link pitches 2 and 3.

This route climbs the easy rock to the right of BAPM, then crosses BAPM and ARTHER and tops out far to the left.

1. 20m 10 Diagonally up right then back left to ledge beneath BAPM's 2nd pitch.

2. 30m 12 Climb the main diagonal corner to the right of the candleflame then straight up short steep face to a small stance.

3. 30m 12 Move up and left to the big ledge below BAPM's top pitch.

4. 40m 11 Traverse about 30m left (crossing BAPM and ARTHUR) and pick the easiest line to the top.

Takes the rail through the monster roof about 50m to the right of BAPM. Scramble right up to the roof to belay.

1. 15m 24 Rail out past fixed hex, pegs and wire and pull through to a good flake above the lip. Down climb to the fixed wire and lower off.

Note:

1. Gear required: 4 draws for the route. Friend 1, Friend 1.5, and large wires for the belay. The fixed gear might be dubious by now. Handle with care.