The route starts 10m right of LAST MOON at a 3m flake/pillar.
40m 18 From the top of the flake, climb straight up the break above to stance on a ledge on the right.
40m 17 Continue directly up the break, through a small overhang at 30m to a stance at the base of a small face.
40m 18 Climb straight up to the Grassy Ledge. It is unnecessary to deviate more than a metre or 2 either way anywhere on the first 3 pitches. Walk about 20m to the left (i.e. to about 4m right of the striking dihedral, capped by a long roof, taken by EIGHT MILES HIGH).
20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up cracks until able to traverse right to another crack. Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the corner.
20m 21 Climb the face to a rail leading left to the base of the dihedral, which is climbed to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove.
25m 19 Move up the crack to rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right then down to a small ledge.
20m 18 Move up and left until under the roof. Continue traversing leftwards until it is possible to gain a small ledge in the break.
30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge.
20m 17 Traverse left to an off-width crack (mostly walking).
40m 21 Key Crack: Climb directly up until the going gets easier. Continue to the second ledge.
55m 16 Climb the crack above to a ledge 10m up. Move 5m right to the clean break, which is climbed for 5m. Move 4m right to gain the knobbly slabs above. Climb these straight up to a stance on a short square pillar. Stay roped for the scramble to the top.
Mag 1986 | Prima ascensione: Kevin Smith, Ian Slatem & Clive Curson |
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Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Hector Pringle ()
18,17,18,19,21,17,19,18,20,17,21,16 | Grado comunitario registrato |
18,17,18,19,21,17,19,18,20,17,21,16 | ★★★Marc dM |
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