Vie in Cederberg del grado selezionato

Consistent moderate climbing around Lemon.

1. [19] 20m

   Start as for Mothers. Climb diagonally up the right-hand face to the roof. Pull through at a crack about 1m left of the end of the roof. Traverse 4m left on the platform to stance below a blunt arete.

2. [18] 45m

   Head up and left to the center of the brown face. Head up and aim for the bottomless, left-facing, V-shaped groove. Squeeze up this (the 'Lemon' Squeeze) and step left onto the face as soon as possible. Climb up, through a small roof, and follow good holds to a small ledge.

3. [18] 30m

   Head up a few meters to below a large, left-facing prow. Climb up the short face right of this to a series of vertical cracks. Straight to the top.

This route starts on the oposite wall of Old Timer's disease route. The first pitch is very good but it has two big loose blocks that are a bit scary. The rock on the second pitch is very good, except by the chicken heads in the end.

On the bottom, right hand side of the wall the ground rises up to meet a short ledge. On the left this ledge ends at a short, blunt, undercut prow about 10m off the ground. The left half of the ledge is capped by a small roof at about 8m height. Start on the ledge below the right hand end of the roof.

1. Climb up a break just right of the roof above then step left into a corner system just above the roof. Continue up the corner system / crack, past a large pinnacle, to the top.

Start as for Iron Maiden.

1. 25m (18) Pull up to the roof and traverse right until under the roof and onto the face on the right. Make a semi hanging stance at a rectangular ledge, more or less in the middle of the face.

2. 32m (17) Step left from the stance and then head straight up the face and follow the left side of some fin-like features to a ledge. Belay at a wide vertical crack. Move ~3m right for the next pitch.

3. 10m (15) Climb straight up, passing a roof ~3m up to a wide ledge.

4. 25m (18) Climb the face directly between Iron Maiden and Maidens Dare. Pull onto the face just right of two, long narrow roofs about 1m apart. Head straight up, using the left of 3 short, vertical cracks to a ledge. Move ~20m right for the last pitch.

5. 30m (19) About 5 meters right of the Maidens Dare chimney is a break where you can pull up and move left onto an undercut, projecting feature (between the roofs each side). From here head up and slightly right to the top.

A consistent, direct line to the left of 'Central Direct'. Along the first long traverse of 'Tafelberg Frontal', there is a large rectangular block with a roof above it. The route starts below the left side of this block.

1. 15 m (14) Climb the easy break to the block.

2. 20 m (19) From the left end of the block, pull up to just below the roof and head left on good holds until able to pull over onto the face. Head up and then slightly right to stance at the base of a narrow chimney (shared with 'Tafelberg Frontal')

3. 30 m (17) Start up the chimney part of 'Tafelberg Frontal', then move right onto the middle of the orange face. Head straight up to a narrow ledge.

4. 50 m (19) Start up a crack and then blast straight up the wall, aiming for a left-tending corner crack just below the summit. This crack forms the first (not the second) left-facing corner about 5m left of the massive flake at the top of 'Central Direct'.

This is a really good route on good rock and gear. Start half way between Knobless robot and Baby robot pilars.

1. Climb the corner crack to stance at a small ledge.

2. Climb the roof to a ledge.

One can easily link up this two pitches.

The route climbs the wall 10-20m right of the T-rex. Start from blocks and grass between enormous blocks.

1. Climb up to a ledge.

2. Climb a rounded layback flake and go diagonally right towards a wide gully/groove. Traverse left and up grooves to a large ledge.

3. Start midway between T-Rex's crack on the left and the gully on right. Climb the steep face to a small ledge.

4. Go diagonally left and up to a steepening. Rail right and follow grooves to a ledge. Traverse left to a dassie ledge.

5. Take the first break along the ledge and climb the groove to the top.

A fine outing with varied climbing, ample exposure, stupendous stances and a little bit of spice.

Start as for Boombox.

1. 40 m (17) Start at the end of the ledge directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Pull up to the next level and traverse right a further 30m until a vertical crack below the steep corner with the Dark Arête on the left. Pull up to an excellent stance.

2. 18 m (19) The Dark Arête. Pull up into the steep corner and then move left onto the easy but exposed arête. Climb this to another great stance on the rippled prow.

3. 35 m (19) From the stance, step up onto the shelf on the right. Traverse 4m right to some narrow vertical slots (small cams/wires). Pull up on great edges to a monster pocket. Step left and head up for a corner. Climb the light brown wall on the right of the corner to a ledge. Traverse right under the roof, then climb straight up to the big ledge. Stance at a right-arching layback crack, in brown rock, just right of some stacked blocks.

4. 50 m (19) Climb the layback to a delicate flake (with small gear in a thin crack to the right). Move up and left to a ledge, then slightly further left until able to climb the orange ramp. Head for a narrow overlap which is passed on the left. Romp up the headwall and near the top tend slightly right to a large flake and featured face (left of a water runoff feature). Belay from the huge, convenient mushroom.

This route starts on the face, 4 meters to the right of the arête of the crack corner of Pigs on the wing route and ends on 1 meter right of the arête.

Start up the obvious crack to the right of the pinnacle/ flake.

Start around the corner from Route X.

1. Climb the knobbly wall right of a wide crack. Trend right and back let to a ledge. Move right and up to the base of a layback crack.

2. Climb the crack moving right a the top. Walk about 25m left to the end of the large ledge.

3. Climb the grey wall left of the overhang to the top of the Gendarme.

Start almost in the middle of the amphitheatre. There is a large beacon under a small roof.

1. Climb the recess/jam crack

2. Up, and then right out to the nose. Up this to broken rock. Scramble up to the base of a ramp with a split block at the top.

3. Climb the ramp and into the crack.

4. Up right and diagonally up to a large ledge.

5. Starting near the middle of the face, climb up on jugs.

6. Traverse left into the corner, then up to a ledge.

7. Continue up for about 20m, then crawl right for 45m.

8. Climb the face, then further on, to belay below overhangs.

9. Traverse right around the corner, through a whole and to a ledge.

10. Traverse further and up a yellow face to easy ground

1. [18] 40m

   Start in the crack right of 'Rooibosch' climb up to a ledge with a resting block, This is where 'Rooibosch' goes left, climb to the right then weave through 2 overlaps to build a hanging stance.

2. [19] 20m

   Climb upwards aiming for a overhang with a break. Continue to the ledge. Choose a top out pitch or access the rap station a few meters left.

Start a few meters right of Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Climb up the crack feature to ledge and join the forenamed route to finish.

Start about 30m right of 'Welbedacht Crack' on top of a massive block with a slant on top.

1. [18] 25m

   From the cairn head up the right-hand face slightly diagonally left to a small ceiling. Traverse right on the handrail. When possible climb ±2-4m up to a ledge with a right-angled open book. **Note: The original RD mentions climbing down to a small cave, and inserting the left leg as a lever to do a 'weird' move. We could not find (missed) this.

2. [15] 40m

   Climb the right-angled open book into a break then to a ledge. Once at the ledge shift slightly left to an obvious break. Climb this and move right at the overhang (don't use the perfect hand jam rail) rather climb up and left into the chimney, and continue up to the ledge.

3. [11] 20m

   Walk left to beneath where the roof peters out. You should be a couple of meters right of the last pitch of 'Cosy Corner' Start with a hard pull and continue up the break to the top.

The feature just left of Kersie Fees

Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right-hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.

A great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.

Start: Below the large brown corners left of 'Tafelberg Frontal'

1. [13] 12m

   Climb the recess to the ledge.

2. [17] 30m

   Scramble right to where the dark orange rock becomes more speckled. Climb 2 short walls into a recess up to the roof, then rail left to a small stance. End of this pitch not great for 3 climbers.

3. [19] 20m

   Climb up then rail right on a curved face with a slither of rock in the rail to stance on a great ledge.

4. [16] 15m

   Climb up to the dassie ledge, crawl left into a large recess.

5. [16] 40m

   Move left then up an amazing break, has to be the best of the grade anywhere. when looking difficult at the roof move right onto the face and up to a good ledge.

6. [15] 30m

   Climb Mamacos's variation to 'Tafelberg Frontal'

Take the Tube left of Flint Hard and follow the left side of the higher feature and step back right to the chains of Flint Hard at the top.

Climb the centre of the east face of the small pillar, to the right of the cave art, encountered on the path from the second car park. At the top, walk across and step across the crevice to the main buttress and find a suitable abseil point.

Climb pitch 1 & 2 of Saturday Afternoon Fever. Then scramble up and right to the obvious crack system going up to the large roofs.

1. Climb the crack to a ledge on the right.

2. Rail left and walk off left.

A very popular route.

The route starts near the point where the approach trail gets to the rock face in a big red recess below the right hand end of the big roof. At this point the trail turns left and follows the rock face up. A convenient block on the ledge, about 5m up a ramp from the trail, marks the start of the route on the right hand wall of the recess.

1. 45m (19) Climb straight up from the ledge to a wide shallow crack with a loose block at the bottom. Climb the crack to it's end and then go left to a large flake. Climb the flake and a smaller one above it and continue straight up the recess to a wide rail. Above the rail is a small roof. Climb up to the roof and pass it on the left (a finger crack a metre to the left has a good layback hold (crux)). Continue up the short off-width crack through the overhang above. Continue up to large ledge.

2. 25m (15) Climb up and left under a large roof. Traverse left using the rail under the roof and decent footholds. Turn the roof on the far left and continue up easily to a large ledge. The next pitch starts 5m to the right below a narrow flaring crack that splits the roof above with a finger crack half a meter left of it.

3. 20m (18) Climb the above-mentioned finger crack. Hand swing to the right under the roof and do an awkward move to gain the ledge to the right of the roof. Climb the chimney above the ledge and move to the face on the left when it narrows after a few meters. Follow a crack to another roof then move out onto the face on the right and climb straight up to bushy ledge above.

4. 20m (14) 6m to the right is an obvious break in the face - this is climbed by the last pitch of Blunt Brothers. Climb up 2m to the left of this, pulling through a small roof on good jugs. Climb straight up until you can scramble easily to the top.

Right of 'Mooi River' is a finger crack. Follow this to the ledge, then step right and climb the short steep face above (this is actually a large block that appears to be balancing on the top of the gulley, so user discretion is advised).

Climb up to the right of the arching crack.

Start: 16m right of 'Tafelberg Frontal'

1. [11] 30m

   Climb the right hand of 2 narrow cracks (lichenous) up to an overhang, when forced, traverse right and up to a ledge. Don't stance on the same level as 'Tafelberg Frontal' P2, rather a meter or 2 lower above the central crack.

2. [13] 20m

   Traverse to the right across an obvious nose, this is below 'Tafelberg Frontal' P2. Stay above the lip of the roof until obliged up, a delicate move leads to the ledge above. Join the last bit of 'Tafelberg Frontal' P2 and then stance.

3. [18] 30m

   Climb up and left onto blocks. Transition to the face, and climb in a leftward direction to the dassie traverse ledge to a lone flat block. Climb up below a black sharp column/rib, traverse right below a shield above and around a blonde rib (trapezoid in shape= white apron), continue up diagonally taking the path of least resistance to the right side of a small overlap which is ±in line with the bottomless corner above. Now move left and over the overlap continue to stance at the bottomless corner. Note it might be better to stance one ledge lower and right. As there is not a lot of gear to stance directly below the bottomless chimney.

4. [15] 30m

   Traverse left till on the dark rock with really large foot holds. Climb the face tending left, past a right facing corner and up the next break to the good ledge.

5. [18] 35m

   Climb the face on the left, and dance up the black streak. Tend left near the top to align oneself with the chimney/ massive flake. Climb inside the chimney/ flake to top out.

To the right of Balancing Act is a broken hand crack, and the right of that is a separate face. Climb the middle of this face to the top. Some tricky gear in places, and some slightly fragile rock.

Climb up the left-hand crack, mantle the slab and the finish straight up.

Start: Just Left of Dangerous Liaison's corner

1. Climb up to a ledge then go leftwards, passing a pillar to gain a short corner. Follow this, then go diagonally left to a ledge.

2. Traverse 3m right then pull through the overhang. Go straight up through the next overhang to a ledge on the left.

3. Climb diagonally leftwards around the overhang, then up 3m before going diagonally rightwards and through a short wide crack that splits two big blocks. Stance on the blocks.

4. Climb right, around the overhang (as for Pyramid Scheme) but from the ledge above continue up slightly rightwards past a left-facing corner to a ledge.

5. Move up to the left of the lowest part of the roof then go straight up past the right hand end of the main roof to the top.

Start: 30m right of the 'Descent Gully' at the base of a recess.

1. Climb the recess and delicate features out left, heading diagonally left over 2 mantels, traverse back right to the base of a recess, which is directly above the start.

2. Climb the crack onto a ledge and then the layback crack above. Move left when possible to stance at the base of a long crack.

3. Climb the crack to the top. There is a rap to the left+ another below. Alternatively use the 'Apathy Wall' rap.

Climb the right crack then continue straight up using a pebble pocket to reach seam and finish up the wall using a pebble.

Start in the gully and up the face until able to move left and up the right arete of the largest section of the Bushman Wall.

This route is found on the left of the narrow slot as you walk from the descent gully to the Apathy wall. This starts at a waist-high step on a grey patch or rock. Head straight up past several finger rails, then continue more or less straight to the top. The gear past the first few rails is a little tricky for a few meters, so take care.

Takes the vague arête on the right of the buttress at the entrance to the gulley.

Scramble up the black rock to the right-hand end of a large ledge below the orange rock in the deep recess. Step right onto the face and pull up past two rails to a ledge on the right. From the left side of the ledge, move up to a rail, step right and up a thin crack to the split block abseil point. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

Start on the central pillar and climb up over a small lip on 'ok' gear. Continue up over a small roof and straight up to the top of the wall on good rails. Descend off the back via a sketchy scramble or ab off using tat.

5m left of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.

Start just right of Familia Roach and head up and right to follow the left side of a groove on the right of the buttress. Near the top, make a traverse right at a finger rail and then up to the top.

Between Ken’s block and Red Turret is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to the platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with the centre of Arête and gun for the top. Walk off and down the gulley to the right of the route.

Climb up a series of vertical cracks a few meters to the left of the North-West Pillar.

From the first ledge above the ground, follow the large left facing brown corner, to the right of Water Karma. At the top of the corner step right and then straight to the top.

Climb the vague arête that forms the right side of the right wall of Cocoa corner. Beware- there is a large loose block at the top of the arête. Avoid this by traversing right a bit below it and climb the face just to the right to the top.

Starts to the right of 'One Life Stand' and takes the easiest way into the narrow corner and up to the bush ledge.

Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.

Start several meters to the right of Pedestal Corner. Climb the features on the part of the wall where it makes a blunt, 90° turn.

Start to the right of Pedestal Face from a rock ledge. Take the easy break that leads directly to the honeycomb section of rock seen from below. Climb just left of this and straight to the top

Follow a series of layback holds between horizontal breaks to gain a dark brown triangular recess. Move up this and exit up and right onto the face. Head straight up and slightly left to the top.

The main feature on this route is the big left-leaning grey groove to the left of the overhanging bands on the south-west face. Start from the ledges directly below the groove.

1. [17] 10m

   Climb a shallow corner to the right, then traverse left to a narrow ledge at the base of the groove.

2. [19] 40m

   Superb climbing leads up the back of the groove and out to the left around and overhang. Climb up the short corners above to a massive ledge on the right.

3. [15] 25m

   Go horizontally to the left on a narrow rail to a niche and then climb directly up on jugs to a belay ledge.

4. [15] 50m

   An easy chimney gives access to an escape ledge whence scrambling on gargoyles leads to the summit.