★★★ The Gem 19

A consistent, direct line to the left of 'Central Direct'. Along the first long traverse of 'Tafelberg Frontal', there is a large rectangular block with a roof above it. The route starts below the left side of this block.

1. 15 m (14) Climb the easy break to the block.

2. 20 m (19) From the left end of the block, pull up to just below the roof and head left on good holds until able to pull over onto the face. Head up and then slightly right to stance at the base of a narrow chimney (shared with 'Tafelberg Frontal')

3. 30 m (17) Start up the chimney part of 'Tafelberg Frontal', then move right onto the middle of the orange face. Head straight up to a narrow ledge.

4. 50 m (19) Start up a crack and then blast straight up the wall, aiming for a left-tending corner crack just below the summit. This crack forms the first (not the second) left-facing corner about 5m left of the massive flake at the top of 'Central Direct'.

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. No bolting is allowed at all.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.