Cogman's Buttress Principalmente Arrampicata sportiva 13 vie in falesia

Eagles Folly was the first rock climbing route in 'Montagu' and is a classic that must be done.

It is called Eagle's Folly because the leader of the opening party had to climb over a nest in the chimney (of the 2nd last pitch) and there was a young bird there and it squawked and squawked and then took off between his legs for what was probably it's first flight...! The nest was still there (abandoned) when he repeated it a few years ago.

Don't underestimate the amount of time to climb this route, parties have been caught out in the dark! On the other hand it has been climbed car to car in 4 hours. The walk up usually takes about 45' to 1 hour. An early start is advisable in Summer to avoid the heat. There is no water along the way.

A standard trad rack is required, a #4 Camalot is useful but not necessary. Most pitches are +-50 meters, so 50m ropes are fine.

It is advisable to take a pair of walking shoes on the route for walking down. Long pants are also advisable. The descent is very obvious, once on top, follow your nose to the far side of the mountain and then hang left on easy terrain till you get to the large descent gully.

The route follows the prominent central arête leading to the highest point in the area.

1. [12] 45m

   Starting in the alcove, climb leftwards up a grey slab, turning the overhang delicately on the left. Step right and continue over clean steps and slabs, keeping close to the arête, to a stance.

2. [13] 45m

   Tend leftwards up easy rock to a steep slab. Climb straight up to a corner above a blocky ledge. Climb the brown and grey corner, over a bulge, to a spacious stance.

3. [17] 40m

   Stem up the wide break to a knobbed slab which leads to a layaway corner/ crack. Climb this to a stance, or stance higher above shattered blocks.

4. [12] 48m

   Step right and use the arête to gain the hanging slabs. Continue straight up to the top of a small gendarme.

5. [16] 45m

   A spectacular corner capped by a triangular overhang: Use corners, cracks and a face to gain the main corner system. Step left at a chockstone onto the left edge of the arête. Climb this directly. Follow the crack, passing an overhang, to a stance.

6. [15] 48m

   Step right onto a block. Use a finger crack and arête edge to pull up onto superb rock. Climb cracks, mantles and layaway's to easier ground. Scramble to a stance.

7. [13] 20m

   Move up an awkward corner on the left. Step right and up to a stance. Scramble along the ridge to a blocky summit.