★★★ Dream Queen 21

Start as for Big Dreamers Never Die.

1. Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

2. Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

3. Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

4. Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.