Vie in Cape Winelands del grado selezionato

Start: on the left side of a prominent blocky fin of rock that sits near the base of the buttress.

1. Climb the face heading for the open-book formed by the left side of the jutting rock fin. Climb the open book to exit onto a small stance on top of the rock pillar/fin.

2. Follow a blind crack up and slightly leftwards to a small ledge. Continue straight up blocky ground on excellent rock, aiming up and left to a prominent, clean, open-book corner some 20m high. Continue up the open book and then out to a small stance about 5m above the open-book.

3. Above is a very prominent "Shark's Fin" under an overhang. Climb straight up to the obvious open-book formed by the recessed wall meeting the shark's fin on the left. Climb the open-book (#4.5 Camalot very useful here) and bypass the roof above by pulling up onto the shark's fin. Continue up, heading for a very prominent splitter-crack running through the headwall. Stance at the base of the crack.

4. Layback up the ramp at the start of the splitter till it steepens. Using aid, climb through the bulge following the crack. Continue (free) up the easier angled open-book corner and stance on a big ledge. Scramble across the ledge and straight up the prow ahead until able to move across a sloping slab to the right and up to a higher ledge. The next pitch starts up a flaky looking break on the right corner of the next prow.

5. Follow the flaky crack up the corner and slightly to the right. Continue up to just below a small roof. Stretch across and swing to the left onto easier ground. Above is another small overhang with a break on the right. Climb up under the overhang. Continue up the break and on up to a prominent chimney crack. Climb the chimney for a few metres and then break out left following a crack on the left wall to the top of the prow (this pitch is shared with Hold On Woman).

You are now on the final ridge. Scramble up the ridge for two rope lengths (+/-120m). At this point slopes on the right are easily accessed.

Descent: cross the slope for approximately 60m to a rappel point with tat.

1. 60m rapp. Scramble down to the next terrace. The next rappel point is on a leaning boulder.

2. 40m rapp to a grassy slope. Move left, facing Piccolo, until in the gully. Follow the gully, making short rapps where necessary. At the bottom of the gully, scramble up a subsidiary gully directly opposite.

3. 60m rapp from a rocky point at the top of the grassy gully (look out for tat). This rappel takes you down a steep and bushy gully, behind a large chockstone, and lands you very near the start of the route.

Approach: Walk past the pilon and after about 15min head into the forest just after the short scramble on the walk-up to Yellowwood

This route starts on the other side of the prow - facing the amphitheatre. Scramble around the corner on a narrow ledge. A beacon marks the start at an exposed belay. Climb the obvious crack line, then step left near the top to finish at the prow.

1. [16] 20m

   ???

2. [18] 20m

   ???

The upper reaches of the Superior Kloof are guarded by a multi-tier waterfall. Above this gateway of rock, in the shape of an inverted arch, heralds the upper sections of the kloof. This climb begins at the base of the ridge on the right-hand side of the kloof.

1. Start a few metres left of the ridge/slope. Climb up to a long, vertical block-like fin protruding from the base. Move right and climb the right side of the fin following cracks and corner until able to stance on a tiny platform on top of the fin itself.

2. Straight up the face and arete, following easy cracks. Stance some 10m below an obvious steepening of the face which is capped by a long overhang breaking left.

3. Climb straight up to the open-book corner - ascend this and follow the handrail below the overhang to the left till able to step onto the "Shark Fin" at the left end of the overhang. From here climb up easily to a narrow ledge.

4. scramble diagonally right to a platform on the right-hand corner of the buttress.

5. Climb straight up the vegetated corner to a small roof - rail right to the corner and move up easily to a large ledge. Walk a few metres to the start of the next pitch at the foot of the overhanging prow ahead.

6. Climb up to the front of the prow and traverse right through the notch and onto another large ledge at the foot of the overhanging prow.

7. Follow flaky, vertical cracks on the right side of the prow. Move left below a small roof and pull over a grassy patch onto a small shelf - move up and right to gain a deep chimney crack which is followed to the top of the prow. (this pitch shared with Rosetta Stoned).

8. Climb on the left-side of the ridge till progress is blocked by a large square block - move around it on the right and up to another ledge to belay.

Scrambling leads to the top of the ridge. See Rosetta Stoned for a description of the descent).

Climb the obvious crack. Gets some of the first sun in winter. Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

The lower portion of the face of the Central Turret is clearly divided into three sections by two distinct ribs of rock. The rib on the left is short, an 8o-foot pillar that forms the start of the Via Normale: while that on the right, considerably higher, constitutes the major sections of the Via Diretta. Between them lies an amphitheatre of smooth, light-grey slabs sweeping up to merge eventually into the red overhangs beneath the summit. This is the start of the Via Centrale. The beacon that marks the foot of the first pitch will be found approximately 100 feet to the right of some large blocks leaning against the face at the base of the amphitheatre, almost directly below the prominent grey rib that provides the key to the final sections through the overhangs.

1. 40 feet 'B': Climb diagonally left up a short crack and sloping face to a narrow, horizontal ledge cutting right across the amphitheatre.

2. 70 feet 'D': Walk left along this ledge until it peters out. A further is-foot dassie traverse, step-down and climbing traverse, where the horizontal slit is blocked, leads to the continuation of the ledge.

3. 3o feet 'D': The ledge ends 6o feet to the left beneath an obvious recess. Move diagonally left into the recess and tip a short chimney to another broad ledge. Walk 200 feet to the left to the base of a steep, lichen-covered face immediately to the right of the So-foot pillar on the Via Normale.

4. 120 feet 'F': The Lichen Face. Climb the recessed corner next to the pillar for 25 feet before working diagonally right and up the grey, lichen-covered face to a band of small over- hangs on the same level as the top of the pillar. Continue straight up over a loose block inserted in the face and up a rather scruffy face to a small stance.

5. 20 feet 'D': Easier rock to the left leads to the bottom of a 60-foot ramp sloping diagonally up to the right just above a large tree. Scramble to the top of the ramp.

6. 30 feet 'E sup.': A short vertical face is ascended on the right of the ramp to the level of a thin traverse leading back to the left. Traverse eight feet to the left on small grips, climb up 4 feet, and then descend diagonally to the left behind packed blocks to a narrow ledge. As an alternative, it is also possible to climb directly on to the ledge from the ramp by mean of a small fault to the left.

7. 40 feet 'C': Scramble diagonally to the left up a series of short steps to another similar ledge. An old abseil piton of ours serves as an excellent belay for the next pitch.

8. 25 feet 'E sup.': Near the left-hand extremity of the ledge, an awkward crack gives access to a one-man stance directly below the overhang.

9. 6o feet 'F sup.': The overhangs stretch out a long way on either side of the stance, but by traversing 30 feet to the left it is possible to outflank them. It is advisable to place a running-belay after the initial 8-foot hand traverse as no other resting place is available until the end of the traverse has been reached. Once reached, however, good handholds make the pull-up on to the face above quite easy. By working diagonally to the right again one emerges on a comfortable platform from which direct contact can be made with climbers on the previous stance.

10. 35 feet 'F inf.': Move up to the smooth face on the right of the stance, over sonic loose blocks, to a high handrail that enables one to traverse left for about 12 feet before descending diagonally left to a narrow ledge beneath another large overhang.

11. 6o feet 'F': Traverse to the left around the corner, move up six feet, and then continue diagonally to the left up the short, vertical face above. A final delicate move past a loose block lands one on a small stance in a shallow recess.

12. 6o feet 'E sup.': Climb the white face on the left of the recess for 15 feet. Now traverse to the right back into the recess and step across and around the corner on small grips to an easy face which leads to a ledge broad enough to accommodate the entire party. This is the continuation of the 'lunch ledge'.

13. 35 feet 'E sup.': Step off the flake on the left of the ledge and climb diagonally left for six feet before working back to a one-man stance 10 feet beneath the overhangs and slightly to the right of the start of the pitch.

14. 70 feet 'E': This is the first pitch along the Traverse of the Eagles. Continue traversing to the right for approximately 45 feet to a large detached flake on a level with the foot rail. Using this flake, step on to the face and mantelshelf up to the continuation of the traverse six feet above the flake to the right.

15. 50 feet 'E inf.': Traverse further to the right over slabs. Near the end of the pitch climb up six feet to an uncomfortable sloping stance.

16. 70 feet 'F': This is the last pitch on the Traverse of the Eagles. Another 35 to 40 feet of traversing on the same level brings one to the base of a short, overhanging recess. Climb the recess and around the small nose. Descend diagonally right to a narrow ledge with a loose block on one side.

17. 50 feet 'F and A2': Ten feet to the right of the stance move up six feet to a sloping ledge (artificial, i piton). A delicate traverse to the right lands one at the base of a smooth recess capped by a series of small overhangs. By climbing straight up the recess to the second overhang, one can escape to the right on to a narrow catwalk sloping diagonally up to the right (artificial, 6 pitons). Move around the corner to the right and climb up a few feet to a narrow, two-foot wide ledge.

18. 70 feet 'F and A2': The Yellow Recess. Traverse to the right into the base of a 45-ft recessed corner closed in at the top by a large overhang. Ten feet of free climbing leads to the first bulge, which is climbed mechanically (artificial, 3 pitons) before moving up another 10 feet to a straddle position beneath the second bulge. Now continue up to the roof and then traverse out to the left under the overhang for 15 feet (artificial, 12 pitons). Exit on to a narrow ledge on the same level as the overhang. Six feet to the left it broadens to form a more comfortable stance.

19. 35 feet 'D': Climb eight feet up the side of the triangular flake overlooking the stance and descend the other side. Traverse 20 feet further to the left.

20. 60 feet 'E sup.': Move 20 feet diagonally to the left up a lichen-covered face to a short, grass traverse beneath a projecting nose. A series of strenuous layback movements up the vertical crack in a bulging face complete the pitch.

21. 45 feet 'D': The shallow, bushy gully on the left is climbed to a stance at the foot of a narrow chimney behind a huge block.

22. 15 feet 'D': Climb through the chimney to the top of the block and scramble to the summit where a beacon will be found.

Start: On the far left side of the crag is a bright orange scooped face. Start in the left facing corner. climb stright up and step left to gain a crack. Climb thi to a few rails and move right when forced. Climb up and back left then stright up. Move 2m left at the top to top-out. Scramble to finish.

Scramble up ledges and two rock bands to the middle of the face and the highest easy grass ledge. Start in the middle where the ledge starts to fade.

1. Climb up the easiest line (avoid some loose flakes) to a large ledge below the roof.

2. Traverse right below the roof on a good rail to a small stance where the roof ends and the rock becomes white.

3. Climb through the roof at a jam crack. Continue up to a nose, and climb up steeply on the left of this easier rock. Continue over easy rock to a large ledge.

4. Continue up the dihedral just left of the roof above. Climb through the second roof and belay.

5. Traverse left on the obvious line on blocks, dropping down at one or two places. From the ledge climb to the apex of the blocks on the left.

6. Climb the face above on holes in the rock, up left into a steep break and thus to a rail. Traverse right and up to a stance.

7. Continue directly above on steep rock and then easier rock to a rotten ledge below the main overhangs on the face.

8. Move off the right-hand end and then up a hidden recess to a ledge on the left.

9. Move up and traverse left. Continue up and left to a steep section leading to a belay ledge.

10. Traverse left up the nose until the rope runs out (small stance).

11. Continue up scruffy rock to a good stance.

12. Climb up tending diagonally.

Start on the front of the prow just left of the bolted crack route. Follow the line of least resistance into the left facing dihedral crack above.

Descent: Step to the right and abseil of the bolted lower offs above the bolted crack line.

Start 4m right of 'Helter Swelter' Climb through a few overlaps to access the base of twin cracks. Climb the left crack to finish at the rap station. Line is pretty direct start to finish.

1. Runout

2. ??

Start just right of Hot Stuff. Climb to the left of a prominent projecting block to gain the block arête to the right of the 'Hot Stuff' recess. Follow the v-shaped grove up the featured arête and then straight up easier ground to the top. Belay by two convenient Protea bushes.

Use the same abseil point as for Rudd's Route but angle in towards the main amphitheatre to gain a ledge below a series of steps and just above the big base overhang.

1. [17], 20m

   Climb directly up to gain a small ledge at the start of the prominent arête.

2. [19], 30m

   Head up to the piton then right and up the arête. The arête is made up of millions of little crystal formations. Continue directly up the arête to a ledge. From the ledge descend easy ground to the left to regain the abseil point.

The offwidth 6m left of Illearth Stone.

"The two Jeremy's were in fact the first to climb the upper Sands of Time traverse dyke but instead accessed it via a large flaring crack coming in from the right" Start: Either climb the first pitch of Sands of Time, or scramble up into the Splitter Gully. The route begins below a large crack / groove moving up diagonally left.

1. No bolts. Climb the potted face to gain the diagonal crack / groove and follow it left to the 2nd stance of Sands of Time.

2. 4 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

3. 7 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

Start below the obvious crack on the left. Climb into the brown recess, once established, go to the feature out right. Continue up to a good rail, rail left and up the crack to top out.

Descent: Scramble over blocks to access the upper portion of the 'Smokescreen Gully'

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

Shade for the belayer.

Really good

1. [18] 20m Start on top of a block at entrance (right) of the chimney. Stem up to establish on the face, move right to the base of a thin seam/ crack, climb this to the top.

Follows the most prominent crack lines on the Paarl Rock dome. Start below a narrow crack that becomes off-width, 13m right of Turmoil of the Skin.

1. Climb the crack.

2. Continue up and stance below a layaway crack.

3. Climb the layaway and then through the bulge.

4. Exit right and scramble to the top.

Climb the arête slightly on the right, then move back left to access a hand crack, use this to move up to a good ledge. Above is a overhang with a v-shape, pull through this crux then right into a scoop/ slab, then move back left on easier ground (don't disturb the bees out left)and straight up to a bolted stance.

Climb the crack system left of 'Take Two' but exit left into the corner where there are teetering blocks. Continue up this to exit onto a grey rock to the right of the gully. Continue climbing up the arete tending back right to top out above and left of 'Take Two' lower offs.

A bold route for summer days, strong arms and good nerves. Epics have been had here.

Start: the start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.

1. Climb the left hand variation on the first pitch of Exposure.

2. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.

3. From the pillar move up 5m then right (2 Pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to a stance.

4. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch 1.

5. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6m) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess , past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance.

6. Traverse left around a corner (12m), then diagonally left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3m)

7. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-crack on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance.

8. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around the bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.

9. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.

10. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.

11. Climb a grassy grove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.

12. Climb a V-shaped grove to a creaking block at the top of a crack, swing right on tiny footholds and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.

13. From the stance swing down to foot-grips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on the rib to the right to a small stance.

14. Traverse right around a bulging corner.

15. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (E1), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.

16. Climb a water-shoot type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.

17. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto a corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an expose corner and up via a crack to a stance.

18. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.

Climb (solo) the slab / face about 30m to the left of Carlito's Route.

Start on the right side of the gray/white pillar. Climb up onto a block, carry on up and left to access two cracks on very orange rock, climb this slab, headed for the roof/ corner above. Exit the coner to the right, then up a pocketed face. Above and right is a bolted stance, which is a good place to belay from as your seconds might fall at the roof crux and this ensures less work for yourself.

" It is a beautiful corner. That corner deserves full marks, which I rarely bestow on any pitch. I thought that I was on a classic Cederberg route in that corner." Tinnie Versfeld (2022)

1. [19] 15m

   Climb P1 'The Ashes' stance in the corner/ recess. Do not walk left.

2. [18] 15m

   Climb the right tending corner/ recess to just a few meters below the rhombus (parallelogram) roof, when possible traverse left on a good finger rail stepping across a corner then round to easier ground. Climb up to the overhangs. Just below the overhangs there are loose large rectangular blocks, be mindful to not dislodge them. Traverse left till the route starts to head up again. Stance here.

3. [18] 15m

   Continuing left diagonally up through the stepped roofs till able to exit a small left facing corner. A trunk size block resting on the vegetated ledge marks the end of the route. A large protea tree to the left makes a good anchor point.

Start 50m left of Lucifer, above some small trees at the top of the scree. The route utilizes the same initial buttress as Lucifer. Scramble up to a ledge on the front of the buttress and walk left to the end of the ledge.

1. Climb an overhanging crack to a stance with blocks on the left.

2. From the tree on the right, climb a thin crack to a bush. Move up leftwards into a recess. Follow this to a ledge.

3. Climb diagonally left for a rope length to a recess leading back right.

4. Follow the recess diagonally right before moving across back left to a stance on some large blocks.

5. From the top of the blocks climb a crack, passing an overhang on the left.

6. Move up and right, then back left past a ledge. Continue up to a large bushy ledge. Walk 50m right.

7. Climb up cracks to the top of a large block.

8. Start left from the block and up a crack. Move right into another crack and climb back right on hollow flakes on a corner to a block. Move left to the skyline and up to a stance.

9. Climb the crack and another on the right. Follow easier rock.

10. Descend for 3m and traverse right. Climb the face on the right to a ledge.

11. Climb the recess above on good blocks. Exit right onto easy rock. Continue up behind an enormous block to a ledge on the left

12. Take a low traverse left, move up to the skyline. Climb up for 10m to an obvious block on the left.

13. Traverse Left for 4m into a break diagonally right. Climb a small overhang and steep face for 6m. Traverse left on knobbles.

14. A traverse left from the stance eases left into a recess. Go diagonally right for 10m.

15. Start on the left and go straight up, then tend diagonally left to a stance.

16. Climb the recess above to a big ledge. Walk left for 100m to an easy break leading diagonally right to the top.

Old bolts!

The first not so nice looking crack system. Chains at the top.

Graded 19 in the book but feels more 18

Start: Below the prominent arête is an open book.

1. 18 12m

   Climb below the open book then through it to stance on the ledge.

2. 16 20m

   Climb the face to the right of the arête to gain a crack, continue to the top.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Clip the bolt and pull thru onto the face. Follow the thinner right-hand crack to finish just right of the block. The top is technical and on small gear, your belayer can't see you. There is a belay bolt at the top.

1. {18] 23m Start below the nose. Climb up on good gear to the nose and traverse left below the overhang to a small corner. Climb up to the next overhang and move 6m left onto a good ledge when possible. Stance below a corner.

2. [15} 20m Climb the corner to the overlap/ red juggy face. Move a little right and campus on good jugs heading for a small corner on the right. Climb past this on the grey rock. A tree and belay bolt await.

Start: ±8m left of the lower rap up a short corner

Climb the short corner to scramble up some ledges to a flaked open book with a tree above and left. Climb the open book to the roof, rail right when forced. climb up some steps to access the steep break (V-groove). Climb to top out on a ledge. The upper rap point is up and ±8m right.

Climb the short short hand crack to chains.

Really good single pitcher

Access the ledge (15m up) via any route of your choice.

Start: 2m right of a chimney. There is a medium size flake resting against the wall at the start. Climb the break up to a pair of wedged plates (flakes), continue up and slightly left to access a short technical bulging slab. After this access abundant rails to up to a face, once established on the face move slightly right and up to finish.

In the recess between the Loft & the Pillars – climb the stellar corner. Best accessed by rapping in from above

Start: In a corner with black (zebra) streaks on each side Climb the layback crack to the small platform, continue up into the recess and right to the top out.

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

Climb the crack to the left of Hidden Gem. Beware of big loose / hollow sounding rock at the top.

P1, A really good crux on this pitch. P2 Really excellent climbing with a good crux.

Start: On the ledge above is a hanging block. This is the start of 'Fanning the Flames' Start left of that route.

1. [16] 18m

   Climb the channels to the ledge, climb past the wedged in block, awkward, but gear is good.

2. [18] 22m

   Climb the break just right of the square overhang, move into the groove and up to top out.

Fantastic climbing for the grade

1. 17 25m

   Start 3/4m left of the acute corner, climb the slab past the lose/ keyed block. Above and left is a diagonal break/ crack. Climb through this then easy scrambling over large blocks to Stance at the base of a prominent lay-back crack/ corner.

2. 18 18m

   Climb the crack/ corner then easier ground to access a vegetated slope. There is a massive block to your right, behind this is an abseil point.

Start in a corner capped by a triangular roof

Start 2m left of the corner on a flat wedged block. Stand on top of the wedged block and head up the thin right facing corner to the roof, rail left onto a small ledge. Cut back right to a short crack (almost inline with the route start) Climb the crack to stance.

Grovel your way up the first off-width corner.

Walk below the crag till to just before the path steps down/ Just before the trees. The route starts in an alcove with a fairly large cairn.

1. 19 15m

   Start on the left of the alcove till able to stem across, pull up to the right of the bulge to gain a pedestal. Step right to gain the finger crack. climbs this to exit left and up to the top. Once at the ledge walk 4-6m left.

2. 19 25m

   Climb the recess to just a few meters below the roof, when possible traverse left. Continue diagonally left on good rails.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Rail left for 3 m, pull into the bushy crack and up to finish. There is a belay bolt at the top.

1. [12]:

   Climb the obvious crack past a tree growing out of the crack up to the base of the second crag.

2. [19]:

   Climb the outside of the crack and then the obvious steep crack (instead of traversing right for the scramble).

Start the approach at the base of the lower buttress beneath the main amphitheatre to the right hand side of the path. Walk to the right taking care on the ledge which is passable around some thick vegetation. A cairn marks the start of the of the first pitch at the open book slab with a vertical seam. Climb this moving left a the top of the hanging shrubs onto the arete and continue on climbing the evident line for 40 metres, stance at the mini ledge. Strat pitch by climbing up the corner and continuing on the good rock tending rightwards. Carry on climbing until you pass over the weathered rock section (no good gear for 10 metres) and then stance a the break with a seated block stance. Start the third pitch moving right up the smooth rock and climb the cracks for 15 metres to finish on a ledge. To exit, move left on the ledge until it peters out, scramble at the easy break on straight up. Abseil tat in situ off climbers friend at the eastern edge off a "Climbers Friend" tree.

Climb the crack to the top, A #3, #4 and #5 are very useful. Amazing finish! Amazing route.

Start left of the 18 on the main face.

1. [17] 20m

   Climb straight up to stance on a small ledge in front of a white face.

2. [19] ??m

   Crux pitch. Stay on the white face all the way parallel to the 18.

3. [18] ??m

   Join the 18 for the final part of the route

Start around the corner at the far right. Climb up a slightly open-book- like feature (right of a tree) before moving out left onto the face. Climb the white face straight up on small holds. If the open book feature seems uninviting this pitch could be started on the far right of the face rather than going around the corner.

"A dirty, sharp, loose and grovelly crack" - Andy de Klerk

Short but good. Start below the obvious crack on the left. Climb up on good edges and gear on the left to access a handrail. Move right till under the crack, climb this to the top. Scramble a little up over blocks then straight to access the upper portion of the 'Smokescreen Gully'

This route heads up the arete 30m to the right of the cave.

1. 30m 18. Climb the wall that faces onto the ledge at cave level. Head slightly right and up to a stance.

2. 25m 18. Up and right.

3. 30m 18. Climb up to the roof and head out right into an airy situation. On the crest head up over the bulge above angling left. A really fine pitch in a spectacular position.

4. 100m 10. Directly up to the summit.

Descent: From the top head left over the top of the mountain. Descend the east side to gain a descent gorge. Continue down and keep taking the options leftwards (facing down). Make one rappel. At the base of the cliffs turn left to regain the cave or head down to the river.

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Start: The large recess / gully sandwiched between Big Yellow Flower and Project.

1. Follow the gully until it peters out higher up.

2. Move up right onto the slab continuing on to a large ledge; walk right and climb the easy slab to a single bolt stance.

Climb the slab / crack.

Short but engaging start to finish-technical

, one of the best in the 'Valhella Area'

Start: the next column right of 'Valkyrie' Climb the obvious crack to the top.

Start above and right of 'Melting Pot' Climb the left hand crack

Climb the crack.

Start above and right of 'Melting Pot' Climb the crack to the top.

start at the right hand edge of the Central pillar, between Pinnacle Face and Princess Di. Bridge up the pillar's right arete and the main wall to the top of the pillar, then climb the crack in the main wall to its end. Head slightly leftwards up the blank wall on small edges, crossing Pinnacle Face at the top to finish right of the corner and bush.

Climb the short face (far left of crag), then easily up to base of overhanging block with vertical crack. Gain the crack with some effort and continue to ledge.

Follows the most prominent crack lines on the Paarl Rock dome. Start below a narrow crack that becomes off-width, 13m right of Turmoil of the Skin.

1. Climb the crack.

2. Continue up and stance below a layaway crack.

3. Climb the layaway and then through the chimney.

4. Exit right and scramble to the top.