Vie in West Coast del grado selezionato

1. Climb the corner to a roof (as for Wakeling-Bird). Traverse left for a few meters until able to exit left into the break at the base of the crack using creative moves. Move up 2m to a stance.

2. Climb the crack strenuously until reaching a blank offwidth section after about 15m. Step left and climb a short face to a small ledge (may be better to stance here). Step right back into the crack and climb it for 3m until it fades, reaching a small alcove.

3. Move diagonally up and right towards the tree. Climb up past the tree using some pockets, until reaching easier ground. Traverse right under the roof until standing directly above the anchors of Big Fish (they are on an obvious ledge below you at this point).

Descent: roped scramble down to the anchors, first tending right, then back left. Abseil (35m). Alternatively, it may be more pleasant to extend this route and climb one more pitch up the diagonal crack to reach the abseil fig tree of Wakeling-Bird. It may also be possible to directly reach the anchors of Blue Train further right instead of scrambling down.

Climb the corner to a roof. Step right. Continue up past aloe to stance on a ledge. Continue up for 1-2 more pitches more or less straight up. No anchors at the top, but there is some abseil-tat around the fig tree at the top (take back up).

Start: This route climbs up the large brown open-book system on the left-hand side of the wall.

P1: 30m (19). Climb the recess to a ledge, continue up the crack at the centre of the open-book to a large ledge.

P2: 30m (20). Continue up the crack until forced left under the roof. Delicate moves lead to a ledge stance on the left-hand edge of the large roof.

P3: 35m (17). Climb up the corner and continue straight up to the lunch ledge.

P4: 35m (17). Climb up the crack system nearest to the arette, directly above the last pitch. After 15m, cross over to the right hand side of the arette to a scoop. Continue up, passing by the left hand end of the prominent triangular roof visible from the base of the cliff.

P5: 30m (15). Continue straight up to the top.

The left-hand side of Central Buttress extends out westwards in a prominent, fin shaped feature. Muscle Beach climbs the nose of this feature.

Start at the base of the undercut crack and climb the nose to the top.

This route starts in the second corner from the left. Beacon (cairn).

1. Move up on the ramp like corner. At the overhang move right, up and diagonally right to a small stance below a smooth corner.

2. Move up the corner, then through the small roof. Climb the following open-book/corner (crux) and then straight up to the top.

1. Climb the same corner as for Unknown Route 3 but rail left before getting to the roof, then follow the break into a tricky groove and up to a big ledge below the roofs.

2. Pull through the roof to the right of the ledge, then skirt the next roof to the right and climb up to a wide ledge. Belay from the ledge then walk left to the large cave. The next pitch starts near the right-hand edge of the cave.

3. Standing on a block, establish on the grey slabby corner. Follow the slab until it steepens to vertical. Mantle up and follow a short and gritty crack to the summit.

The second line from the amphitheatre edge (4m).

1. A difficult start then up the obvious break for 20m. Then move left into the book topped by a V-shaped block.

2. Above these move left for 4m then straight up to the top.

On the right-hand side of the right-hand amphitheatre is a crackline.

1. Climb the overhanging crackline to a ledge.

2. Rail right to a gritstone type arête. Climb this to the top.

This route is on the extreme right-hand side of the cliff-line of South Buttress. Look for a steepish red face capped by a grey corner/groove.

Walk along the overhanging stretch of cliffs to the right, pass an easy looking grey ramp up the middle of the face. Continue to the next easy ramp, which only goes halfway up the face. Immediately to the left of this is an overhanging corner/crack.

Start at the beacon and climb straight up, turning the overhang on the left. Scramble down on the right.

The feature is a huge two thirds up the face, above which is the prow on the skyline. Scramble up the gully to a large ledge (level with the second rappel down the chimney. Traverse 20m left to a beacon.

1. Climb the face, then traverse left along the rail until able to move up and right to a ledge. Walk 10m right.

2. Climb diagonally left and to the base of a pillar.

3. Climb the chimney on the left of the pillar, continue to a small stance. Move up and left through an undercling flake to stance on blocks below the huge roof.

4. Step down and go left. Move up under the roof and rail left to the lip. Pull through to a stance.

5. Climb to the top, keeping left of the nose.

The corner/crack on the right-hand side of the wall.

On the bottom, right hand side of the wall the ground rises up to meet a short ledge. On the left this ledge ends at a short, blunt, undercut prow about 10m off the ground. Grimposaurus starts just left of this prow at ground level (i.e. below the ledge).

1. Start up a crack just left of the small roof (undercut prow). Continue slightly left into the obvious, big crack which heads up and back right towards the top.

C. North, R. Halsey & M. Thilo

On the bottom, right hand side of the wall the ground rises up to meet a short ledge. On the left this ledge ends at a short, blunt, undercut prow about 10m off the ground. Start at the left hand end of the ledge.

1. Climb up and left to pass the roof at ~8m on its left. Head up to a narrow, slightly leftward tending, layback crack. Climb this and then continue straight up to the top.

On the front of the Gendarme is a square recess capped by a roof. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. Climb the off-width, move right and up the wall tending diagonally left to a ledge.

2. Walk left to a corner leading up tot he roof. Climb up and traverse left to a layback crack breaking through.

Start about 30m right of the Amphitheatre route. Scramble up a crack to the upper ledge.

1. Start on the left, climb a short face and across to the open book. Take-off from blocks and go up the recesses. Exit left.

2. Climb diagonally to where it is possible to go straight through a roof above.

3. Traverse right on good rails.

4. Climb through the crack in the overhang. Climb the crack on the left. Handrail right until able to move diagonally back left.

5. Traverse left and climb thin wall just right of the bottomless crack.

6. Move left and up 15m. Traverse right and up to the highest of two giant ledges.

7. Start from behind a large block on the right, and climb a crack. Move right to a cubbyhole and stance further right.

8. Move up to the overhang and through to the top.

On the far right hand side of the main amphitheatre, about 30m past the layback crack of Indecent Exposure's first pitch, is a big, dark red recess with a crack in the corner. The route goes up the crack then skirts the roofs above. It then follows a couple more corners before some immaculate face climbing to finish on the big, grassy halfway ledge. Start on a platform below a block at the base of the corner.

1. Climb up the block to access the crack. Climb the corner until the crack runs out then traverse left on the rail until below the next recess. Climb this recess to the roof then rail right and up onto an awkward, grassy ledge below another corner.

2. Climb the short, steep corner exiting left at the roof onto a large ledge. Climb the layback corner above on the right for 10m and then proceed up the juggy face to stance just below the black streaked headwall.

3. Move up and left and pull through the roof at a shallow, orange recess. Move slightly right onto a line of huge holds. Continue straight up and exit via the left hand of two cracks onto the big ledge. Alternatively, at grade 20, follow the steep, leftward trending flake from the stance to the black crack which is used to turn the roof. Then stretch out left to the line of huge holds.

Descent: traverse right on the large, grassy ledge and then either down climb the frontal, rap it, or scramble/climb up it to the top.

Start Towards the right side of the amphitheatre at two small slabs leaning against the face.

1. Start 8m right of one slab, head up a diagonal crack. Climb this until able to traverse left across to a stance

2. Start in the corner on the right. Climb the crack and go left to a ledge.

3. Climb left then right to a ledge. Traverse left and scramble further left to a platform.

4. Climb up to a traverse line and follow it left.

5. Climb the recess on the left to a ledge. Walk right until the end of the roof.

6. Climb the crack, go left and up. Go leftwards into a chimney and up to a ledge.

7. On the left is a recess leading into a crack. Start up this and onto the rib on the right. Gain a smooth slab and hence a ledge.

8. Move right and up. Traverse right and into a gully to the top.

Single pitch that climbs the centre of the face to the left of the final pitch on Staggersaurus. Abseil in from the top to the ledge about 50m down.

From the ledge head up and right towards the arete until able to pull onto the face. Traverse back left and follow a series of layback features to a narrow roof. Pull through the roof and then continue straight up the face until the top.

Start on orange rock and climb the face

Sit start and follow obvious jug curve

Sit-start below dihedral and climb up.

Climb the slab.

Sit-start with jug and climb up left.

Sit-start with bulge and climb up the arete.

Sit-start and climb the roof

Climb the slab. "A bit crumbly but good anyways"

Climb up to the left of the arête.

Climb the leftward tending crack / seam.

Sit-start with rail and climb up.

Sit start with large holds and climb the brain.

Start to the right of the horn and climb straight up.

Sit-start under low arete and climb up.

Video

Sit-start with good hold under roof and climb up the large flake.

Sit-start under small roof with horn and climb through the bulge.

Sit-start with large rail and climb up diagonally left along the lip.

Climb the short slab.

Climb up using a small crimp.

#SD Sit-start below the arête with large hold and climb up. Boulder J: Rasta Roof

#SD Sit-start to the left of little tree and climb through the bulge.

#SD Sit-start on the right and traverse left on great holds.

Sit-start with flake and climb up.

Sit-start and climb the crack

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with large flake and climb up left using the small hold.

Video

Climb rightwards up the arete

Climb the arête.

Sit-start with large holds and climb out.

Sit-start and climb the red face. "Rocking"

Sit-start with large creaky rail and climb through the bulge.

Sit-start under small roof and climb the crack and face.

Left of Orange Heart

Traverse out of the cave.

Climb the right side of the slab to good hold and finish up left

Sit-start and climb up the juggy face opposite to Olive's Preserve Cupboard.

Climb up the thin slab.

Sit-start with good holds and follow the arch.

Climb the juggy arete.

Sit-start with large holds and traverse out right.

Sit-start with pinch / jug and climb up diagonally left

Sit-start under seam and climb straight up.

Sit start at the lower left corner, climb up and traverse right to the finish of Orange Power.

Solo up into groove.

Climb the slab

Climb the high arête/flake feature.

Crouch start from a jug and climb up

Start from the obvious jug. climb up through the small roof and top out

Sit start and climb to the arete. fragile rock!

Start on the left, traverse right and climb up.

Start with incut edges and move up left to jug.

Climb the juggy slab.

Climb the middle of the slab

Climb diagonally left up the slab and finish up the arête

The black boulder. Climb the concave and crack.

Sit Down Start. Both hands on the shelf at the base of the large scoop. Climb straight up the right side of the scoop to top out.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook