Vie in Garden Route del grado selezionato

Start in small cave, lean out onto main wall, sloping ledges, under-cling and compression moves onto the face (crux), to topout if you dare!

Last of the dry options. Trend left , up into alcove. Can also be started directly from the water, up the crack at a slightly harder grade.

From alcove, up wall to crack and tricky exit.

Step off viewing platform to finish at chains of Mr Incredible

BS on jug rail, move out over nose.

BS on jug, out moving R.

BS on crimps, move slightly L to top out.

BS on jugs, traverse L using edge, Traverse all the way till it gets too easy.

BS on side pulls, move R to juggy nose, up ramp

(Highball) SS, up braken arête.

(Highball) SS, up prominent break & continue up ramp crack.

(Highball) SS, up face into diagonal crack. Rail L & around the corner, then up the hand crack.

BS on overhanging break. Break out to top.

BS on jagged arête, LH on undercling.

BS, up blunt arête.

BS on middle crack. Directly up.

SS, up middle break.

BS in sharp crimp rail.

A tribute to the legend, Dave Davies.

Start: on the left side of the giant flake/pillar on the base ledge.

1. 18 (20m) Chimney and layback your way to the top of the flake. Step right and down behind the flake to belay (no kit).

2. 23 (40m) Climb straight up to some unusual black holes in the orange rock (badly protected). Step 2m right and climb towards a small corner. Then tend rightwards again to stance using a rail (almost level with a small roof and corner system to your left).

3. 20 (25m) Rail left to the roof/corner and step left around it onto the face. Continue up to a ledge below a big black section of rock.

4. 22 (50m) Head diagonally right for approx. 6m, climbing right of the black corner. Continue up to a left-facing corner on your right, crossing some loose terrain. From this corner climb directly up for 20m and step right to stance under a small dark roof below a big stepped roof system.

5. 21 (50m) Pull through the roof just right of the stance to a ledge. From here continue directly up to Skulls Ledge to stance below an obvious roof crack.

6. 25 (30m) Climb easily to below the roof crack. Then climb the crack and rail right below the final roof. Continue up for 10m to stance next to a big boulder below a massive roof.

7. 19 (25m) Step off the boulder and head left around the corner and climb a lovely open book to the top.

Descent: As for The Hovering

Start: on the far left of a narrow ledge 10m up from the base ledge (approx. 15m left of Fight or Flight`s razor flake)

1. 21 (60m) “The Perpetual Search for Me Pitch” Climb diagonally leftwards towards a small fin which you undercling. Then do some thin moves to gain a small right-facing, layback corner. 10m up to a ledge (no pro on the ledge). Step 3m left, reach up to a rail and head back right till you are in line with the start. Continue up to the next ledge (stance shared with Fight or Flight).

2. 25 (40m) “The Artful Dodger Pitch” Head up the big corner above the stance and mantle over the top. Traverse left and place some high kit. Then step down 3m and duck below a big nose on the left (a slightly more direct line still needs to be done). Climb some superb rock to the obvious break in the roof. Pull through, heading rightwards, and continue 15m up to a ledge.

3. 21 (40m) Climb the rightward-tending corner/crack to a ledge below a clean overhanging face. Traverse left and upwards for 10m finishing up a layback feature, followed by a tricky mantelshelf. Continue straight up to Skulls Ledge to stance 5m right of Busy Sparrow’s roof crack.

4. 25 (30m) Finish as for Busy Sparrow: Climb easily to below the roof crack. Then climb the crack and rail right below the final roof. Continue up for 10m to stance next to a big boulder below a massive roof.

5. 19 (25m) Step off the boulder and head left around the corner and climb a lovely open book to the top.

Descent: As for The Hovering

Start: immediately left of a 3m tall razor flake above the small cluster of trees on the base ledge.

1. 21 (40m) Climb directly up to a massive right-facing corner on Hell and Gone Ledge. You pass between two flakes on the way. The first (on the right) is loose, only place pro in the upper half! Stance at the base of the big corner.

2. 16 (26m) Climb the big corner (mostly on the face) to a ledge. Then traverse 15m left to stance below another right-facing corner (shared with Highway Bird).

3. 22 (40m) “Birds of Prey Pitch” Climb diagonally rightwards on good rock, avoiding the chossy white rock. This forces you to do a few tricky, but wonderful, moves on incut holds to gain a rail. Rail right for 10m passing the eagle’s nest (uninhabited at the time of FA) and turn the roof. Move right for 5m to stance at the bottom of a big ramp.

4. 21 (50m) Leave the ramp at its base and climb right of a corner system directly to another short, right-facing corner. Climb this one and step left at the roof capping it. Up a delicate slab, and straight up to a big block resting on the highest ledge (below white rock).

5. 10 (10m) Traverse rightwards to the base of a big white pillar/flake.

6. 25 (40m) Climb the left side of the white pillar. Leave the block on top in place-you’ll need it. Continue up for 4m and then tend right towards a rail below a big roof. Rail right for 6m, then drop down 3m avoiding a loose pillar and back up to the rail. Continue traversing rightwards for 5m to stance in a corner (or 10m if possible).

7. 22 (30m) Step right around the roof above the stance and climb up a chimney/corner (South facing) for 10m. You will see a flake which you layback to the arête on your left (airy!). Climb around the arête onto the massive prow and continue up to a ledge under a big roof.

8. 10 (20m) Traverse left around the corner and up to a ledge. Stance below a crack splitting some very nice yellow rock (North facing).

9. 21 (25m) Climb the crack and then tend rightwards to the top.

Congratulations for opting to Fight!

Descent: As for The Hovering