Vie in Western Cape del grado selezionato

Start as for Deception Guaranteed. Sidepull in crack is off, TO.

Sit start with both hands on white knob, LH up to edge and straight up to TO.

Start as for Atlas' Heavy Burden. Traverse left on the lip to finish on Flying Circus.

Sit start using pockets. Climb straight up to TO.

Sit start using undercling. LH to good edge, TO direct using arete.

Standstart. LH on slopey diagonal edge. Climb the slab, moving slightly right to TO. Pocket halfway up on the left is off.

Sit Down Start. Start as for 'You're Under Arête'. Traverse left along the entire length of the boulder, until you reach the large vertical crack where 'Trad Traverse' ends. Top out using the crack. The top lip of the boulder is not in.

Standing start. left and right hand on side-pulls either side of the arete. Climb left along the lip to top out at the high point.

Sit start with left hand in a small pocket and right hand on a crimp. Climb along the lip without using the easier hold above the lip.

Sitstart on good uncut white jug and traverse right, finishing up the arete.

Standing start on the jugs left of the edge. Climb right. Top out next to the arete without using the holds on the other side of the arete.

Sitstart just right of the corner on the city side of Cross Purpose, climb the arête using good holds to TO.

Start as for Done (or standstart) and traverse low, taking the first chance to escape and finding the easiest TO

Start as for Done and climb straight through on the left of the roof after gaining the flat ledge standing up on the ramp

Sitstart. Use low edges to start, gain slopers to TO.

Start on the small hold just right of the sloper on the arete. RH to the good hold out R. Continue right to good edge then straight up to TO.

Sit start with hands on good edges. RH up to sloper on arete. LH up to good edge (the big flat edge higher up is off). Traverse left and then straight up just right of the tree.

Sitstart. Climb the undercut RH corner (with your back to Table Mountain)

SS under the overhang and move upwards using the finger slot to TO

Sloper start with massive heel hook into sloper

Overcome the steep bit and finish up the slab.

Standing start and climb the crimpy slab on the right, avoiding the tree.

Climb the offwidth crack.

Bum start and climb the overhanging arête/ crack.

Bum start at the back of the small roof and round the lip to jugs, mantle to top out.

Start high up on a flake / crack and climb the corner.

Start under the crack, then up the overhanging crack.

Video Landry Lushima

Bum start and move towards and out through the just-right size hole to top-out. Someone had to do it

3 Bolts (old bolts).

Start as Accidentally Overlooked but trav left to TO as for Xibalba

Start as for Swim, now instead of going for the sloper / sidepull, left hand goes a bit higher and further left to a good layback, right hand up and top-out.

SS with RH on large sidepull/pinch, LH on low pinch, RH up to a very slopey pinch, LH to sloper, then throw to the very slopey top, TO. (An easier version exists if you use the holds on the R).

Figure 8 Climbing

Using the laybacks climb to the face.

SS on large flake, move up onto ledge and TO on slopers.

Sit-start on the lip and mantle.

Sit-start with left hand in the rail and right hand on a good but awkward grip, move up to a right hand jug on the arête and mantle.

Sit-start with left hand on an edge on the arête and right hand on a crimp sidepull, left hand to an edge on the arête.

Crouch-start with left hand on slopey ledge & right on slopey sidepull on the arête and climb into Little Bleau.

Do buccaneer but at the rightward traverse blast strait up through big roof on jugs

Big brother to Café Caprice, wingspan will help for the final wild moves.

Head up and right under the first small overlap. Pull up and hand traverse right, then up and further right to a wide, bottomless corner. Pull up into this and hand rail right to a final long pull through the roof and up to the ledge.

Best Line at the crag: interesting moves with a pumpy disposition. Start in the north-facing, undercut open book on the left side of the wall, and basically follows this line to the top. Head up and right to an undercut nose, then up the vague open book and through easier ground to a rest below a clean face broken by a single, vertical crack.

This is the longest line at the crag: an enormous left diagonal line sharing the same start as POD and exiting at the tree above An Uncertain Piece. It was opened ground up on-sight.

Takes the central line up the centre of the steepest part of the buttress. The first pitch goes free at grade 24 to the hands free rest in the roof. This pitch will go free at about grade 28 if you can do the boulder move. (There was an ancient bail wire in the steep crack just below the roof, so someone has played here before).

1. Start from the ‘sheep’ in front of a boulder. Pull steeply onto the face and up to a small ledge. A hard move up and left leads to a traverse left to the step vertical crack. Follow the crack to a hands free rest in the roof. Aid through the roof boulder problem using a marginal fixed wire. Move left to a tiny square stance.

2. Follow the vertical crack system to the top of the crag.

1. Make a hard pull up into a narrow bottomless corner. Continue up to a ledge with blocks, Some hard moves up and right gain the steep, wide crack. Follow this and then exit right to stance on the white face to the right. Solid at the grade.

2.From the Anvil, head left to the stepped arête and climb just right of the arête until the overhang at the top Affirmative Action. Step left and continue straight up.

Left of the Ironborn corner, Kingklip Buffet follows the short arête to the steep crack system in the centre of the overhanging face.

From the large boulder, pull up into the crack in the centre of the face and move right to the short, undercut arête. Continue up to the first roof and follow the vertical cracks through overlaps to a bottomless corner. Hard moves out right lead to the backrest of the ‘Throne’. Continue straight up to a wide horizontal rail and then up to a fin on the right. Pull back left to exit onto a ledge left of the bushes, continue up to next ledge where there is a rap point.

Start: On the furthest right boulder at the left end of the Lourie Cave.

Pull up into the corner and move left onto a grey nose. Pull up right to some pockets and then left to follow a hairline crack to the right-facing, hanging corner above. Pull around left and up to the roof. Crank through and over on great holds to the face above. Head up and slightly left to join the last moves of Blue Devil. Abseil from touch point.

An easier version could take a line starting about about 2.5m right and running parallel up to the roof, traverse left and finish the same.

A sustained route with a bit of spice. The second pitch is great with a wild finish!

Start by the tree at the right end of the little ledge as for the direct start to 'Touch and Go'.

1. [23/24] 20m Start up the crack system until the large projecting disc-shaped flake ~5m up. Traverse right ~3m to a good flat jug below a large undercling feature. Pull through the steep bulge here, and up the face above to a vague rail (tricky, but essential gear). Continue up and right (sparse pro) on edges to better holds. Carry on up to a narrow ledge. Walk ~3m right and up to a stance on a neat ledge, directly below the thin crack line (of Farewell to Arms) higher up on the wall above.

2. [22/23] 25m Scramble up to the face, which is climbed directly (one good small wire) to the base of the thin Farewell to Arms crack. Follow the crack, but where Farewell to Arms traverses right under the roof, pull through to the wide, jagged crack above. Follow this to the higher roof and traverse ~1m left. Blast straight through the last roof where there is an intermittent finger rail (below and right of Touch and Go). Crank through to the face above, step right and then up to the right side of the Touch and Go stance.

3. [24?] 20m Head up and right to the break on the right side of the first narrow roof above the stance (shared with Farewell to Arms). Pull through and climb up. At the next narrow roof to the left take a step down and left to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left ~4m to where the rail widens, and there is a large rock wedged flush with the back of the rail. At this point, the rock above the roof is mottled grey, and a bit left of the smoother, yellow/brown rock on the right. Pull through the roof here to a thin rail with key slots for micro cams. Make a hard move up and left to establish on the face which is followed up and slightly left (sparse pro) to reach good holds. Continue straight up the blocky bulges above to the wide ledge.

Note: Other than the sections shared with Farewell to Arms, some sections of these pitches may well have been done before, but all the crux sections are new to the best of our knowledge. The result is a bit of a hybrid route that offers a fairly demanding line up the wall. Consensus grading is needed. Pitch 3 may be harder for shorter folks.

Take the first 4 pitches of 'Roulette' until the roof. Pull onto the face and traverse right on the lip of the roof until the overhang below your feet ends, and then straight up the wall above (to the left of the top pitch of 'Myrrh').

1. [24] 17m ???

A lonely, exposed pitch consisting of a horizontal roof and steep crack that is visible from Tafelberg road, near the top pitch of Africa Amphitheatre. It could now be done as an alternative, hard last pitch to 'Africa Safari'.

Access: To be done as a single pitch: From the upper cable station, walk towards Platteklip, passing two viewing areas with railings. The next lookout has a stone wall. From here, in the direction of Devil's Peak, one can see a huge, egg-shaped boulder on the edge. About 20m left, as viewed from here, is the top of the pitch. Abseil from good sling points above the left wall of the corner to a platform. Scramble down over a boulder to another ledge below the route.

Route: 30m (24?) Gain the roof and crank through the obvious flake and crack (about 4m long) to the lip, and then follow the steep crack system, taking the right split at the top of the steep section. The top third is still a bit lichenous, but at this stage, the business is over. Consensus grading needed

Start as for 'Oddshouter's Outing'

1. [19] 30m

2. [24] 12m

3. [22] 12m

4. [18] 12m

5. [20] 12m

A direct line, with a short but powerful and technical crux in a great position. The easier finish makes for a good, consistent route up the wall.

1. 30m (18/19) Start as for Odd Shouters Outing P3 from Upper Africa ledge but continue up the middle of the face between Hole in my Sole and Odd Shouters, passing a large grass tuft (at the base of the wide crack) by climbing the face to left. From the next ledge, continue up and slightly left to just underneath the pivoting block on Gullet. Pull through about ~1m right of this and then step left to stance on the ramp and blocks to the left.

2. 15m (24) Move up and left to follow a short, blunt arête to a small ledge. Step right to the pegs on Odd Shouters and then straight up, just to the right of the pegs, to the roof via some cool sequences. There is a bomber #1 and #2 Peenut in a narrow horizontal rail just right of the pegs. At the roof traverse, 1m left and then pull through the left end of the roof onto good holds and easy climbing to the large ledge above. Consensus grading needed.

An alternate finish (16) moves left along the ledge from the pegs and follows good holds on the vague arête and then up to the big ledge. Walk left and finish up Africa Crag.

Lower sections of this route have likely been climbed before as linkages between other routes, and at least one party has tried the crux section above the pegs.

A long, sustained pitch with a variety of trickiness. A tad heady in places. Start just right of the Gullet crack.

Pull up onto the centre of the face to the right of the Gullet crack. Continue up to below the blank looking section, at the base of vague, wide U shape formed by sloping ramps. Head straight up the middle of the face to a rail. (Flaky Dog P1 is to your left, and there is a very narrow horizontal break for micro nuts). Continue up the centre of the wall via difficult moves past an undercling to a wide rail. Pull out and right over the next overlap and then tend left to another cryptic bulge. Pull through the next steep section to below a sandy recess, which is avoided by pulling up left to a layback crack in the grey face. Follow this to join the crack on Oudshouters, and finish through the roof crux on that route. Traverse off left and easily out to top (end of Africa Crag). Consensus grading needed, might be a tad harder.

1. [22] 17m

2. [24] 35m

1. [21] 25m

2. [24] 10m

Start up the break left of Mane Course and pull right onto the shelf. Climb the open book to the roof. Continue up the steep, flaring crack above to the next roof. Reach straight over the roof to find good holds (and small cams for gear). From here, a funky but difficult crux sequence leads right and then up onto the face above. [There is a key, large flake under the roof, which seems solid, but treat it with respect]. Continue straight up to the ledge with a small tree. On the left side of the ledge climb straight up the right hand side of two short faces to the big ledge. Abseil point to the left. Consensus grading needed.

Takes the steep crack to the right of Mane Course. Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge.

Start on the undercut face right of Mean Eyed Cat. A series of small holds (and even smaller gear) takes you to the base of a small hanging arete/buttress. follow this to the obvious crack that is the end of Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat. Fun Line!

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of Orphan of the Road. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence.

Sit-start in the lower part of the rail, move up to a big slopey ledge and on up the face / arête.

Climb Road Warrior to the big slopey ledge, then climb diagonally left to a crimper in the second thin seam, RH to an edge sidepull.

Sit-start on big undercling (x), left hand to slopey pocket (x), right hand to diagonal crimp (x), left hand to sloper (x), right hand to black jug (x), left hand to top jug (x). Some 6A's are harder than others.

Sit-start with left hand on little pocket (x) and right hand on edge (x), left hand to good undercling (x), right hand to good undercling (x), left hand to big pocket (x), right hand to good jug (x).

The rail close to big jug is off for feet.

Stand start under the roof 2m right of the large groove above left, move up the face to a left hand pocket and top-out direct.

Sit-start down in a little cave on the far right of the face, move up via good holds and then up to finish right via the traverse rail. No top-out.

Sit-start with left hand on a crimp sidepull just left of the arête and right hand on a good sidepull .

Sit-start with LH on a big pocket and RH low on a big slopey sidepull, RH to a pinch, move up and slightly right to top-out. Big jugs on the left are off.

Start as for Phat Boy Slim, then right hand to a crimp continuing up and right.

Start as for Broncobuster, traverse left to the big sloper and join Big Slick. Needs grade confirmation.

With feet standing on a ledge and right hand in a pocket, move higher up to a three-finger pocket for left hand and throw for the lip. The arête is off.

Sit-start with left hand in a pocket and right hand on a rounded diagonal crimp, launch up right and top-out.

Sit-start on the rail just left of Worm, move up to a pocket with right hand.

Sit-start on the arête on the jug rail, right hand up to ledge just right of the arête.

SS in the bucket, make big move R to good hold and TO.

Sit-start high with left hand on an edge in the lowest part of the crack and right hand just above in a good slot, traverse left following the crack out of the cave and up to top-out. A further hard sit-start extension could be possible lower down in the cave. This problem is hidden in a cave behind the Honeycomb Boulder. Walk up left of Honeycomb to find the entrance.

Sit-start on the rail, right hand to a good sidepull in the groove.

Stand-start with left hand on a sidepull and right hand up on a crimp, right hand to a pocket and finish via the ultimate jug.

Sit-start with left hand on a good sidepull and right hand on a fat pinch and move up to the rail above. Jugs to the left are off.

Sit-start just left of Prepping and Pimping on small pinch grips, right hand to a edge sidepull and top-out direct.

Sit-start with right hand on a good low sidepull, throw left hand to the lip

Sit-start with both hands on a jug layaway, right hand to a slopey pinch.

Sit-start on the big ledge, move up the prow a little, and then right to pockets and top-out.