A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Marc dM Ken Thrash Cormac Tooze Murray Buchanan Stefan Andre van den Berg Ale Marcel de Beer
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Wilgepoort
83 in Crag
- 1.1. The Broad Gully 23 in Cliff
- 1.2. Main Crag 46 in Cliff
- 1.3. The Pillar of Eros / Western Crag 2 in Crag
- 1.4. Test Area 5 in Cliff
- 1.5. Water solo cliff 0 in Cliff
- 1.6. Ship's Prow 7 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Wilgepoort 83 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: -25.630262, 29.001615
descrizione
This venue offer multipitch trad climbing, limited deep water solo and a very few sport routes.
limitazioni per l'accesso
For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:
Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA
Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.
ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.
http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.
dove alloggiare
There is a camping spot with a long drop but no other facilities, no electricity nor water.
etica
There are Verreaux's Eagles (Black Eagles) using a nesting site on the main Crag, and another on the Pillar of Eros.
During breeding season (April to August) it is restricted to climb routes close to the nests. The closure extent is clearly marked on the information pannel at the entry gate and updated every year.
|
1.1. The Broad Gully 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: -25.628108, 29.005469
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Grater
The main feature of this climb is a jamming crack situated to the left of a broken shallow recess.
FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1977 | 19 | 85m, 4 | |||
2 |
Deepheat
FA: Romey Stapley, Romey Druschke & Eckhart Druschke, 1977 | 18 A0 | 98m, 4 | |||
3 |
Stuck-A-Tack
FA: Romey Stapley, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1976 | 17 | 90m | |||
4 |
Sardine Run
FA: Eckhart Druschke, Romey Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977 | 18 | 130m | |||
5 |
★ Scary Monsters
FA: Michael Cartwright, K. Smith & Stewart Middlemiss, 1987 | 23 | 85m | |||
6 |
Hotplate
FA: P. Solar, B. Naude, J. Winkler & A. Koster, 1968 | 11 | 100m | |||
7 |
Hot House / Ignoto
FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977 | 19 | 90m | |||
8 |
Ouink
FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1975 | 17 | 100m | |||
9 |
★★ Ouink - Pyromania variation
Off-width instead of Ouink's open books FA: Dean van der Merwe & David Mitchell, 6 Lug 2014 | 17 | 120m, 5 | |||
10 |
Hidden Sting
FA: Romey Druschke, Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1977 | 18 A0 | 80m | |||
11 |
Oh Boy!
FA: Kevin Kruger & Mark Giddy, 1983 | 18 | 90m | |||
12 |
Dilution
FA: K. Kroger, D. Steenkamp, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 11 | ||||
13 |
★ Fireball
FA: Eckhart Druschke, Jerry Linke & Romey Stapley, 1976 | 18 | 150m | |||
14 |
★ Irish Stew
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Adele Margetts, 1986 | 18 | 60m | |||
15 |
★ Australopithecus Robustus
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Tarquin Holt, 1987 | 20 | 45m | |||
16 |
On Any Sunday
FA: Ken Thrash & Chris Ziranek, Mar 2016 | 21 A0 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 |
New Generation
FA: Michael Cartwright & Cathy O'Dowd, 1989 | 23 | 40m | |||
18 |
★ Australopithecus Robotix
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Tarquin Holt, 1987 | 20 | 75m | |||
19 |
★ A Column for Nelson
FA: Russ Dodding & Heather Murch, 1999 | 18 | 42m | |||
20 |
A Perfect Day
FA: Ken Thrash, Chris Ziranek & Paul Fatti, Nov 2014 | 19 | 40m, 2 | |||
21 |
★★ Independence Day
FA: Russ Dodding & Heather Murch, 1999 | 20 | 40m | |||
22 |
Squeeze 'N Squirm
FA: J. Pipich, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 13 | 120m | |||
23 |
Drip 'N Drag
FA: D. Steenkamp, K. Kroger, J. Schoeman, J. Austin, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 13 | 120m |
1.2. Main Crag 46 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: -25.628815, 29.004214
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Generation Gap
FA: H. Boshoff, J. Schooling, K. Kroger & D. Lubbe, 1973 | 15 | 120m | |||||
2 |
★ Gemini
FA: J. Mosman, J. Vorster, A. Klette & K. Kroger, 1968 | 15 | 120m | |||||
3 |
★★ Sweet Little Mystery
FA: Mark Seuring & Claire Keeton, 1996 | 19 | 75m | |||||
4 |
Idem Dole
the name means "I'm falling off!" in Slovak FA: J. Pipich & K. Kroger, 1969 | 17 | 100m | |||||
5 |
★★ Toothache
FA: K. Kroger, K. Dauter, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 18 | 130m | |||||
6 |
Toothpaste
FA: Jerry Linke, T. Hoy & J. Bullock, 1974 | 16 | 120m | |||||
7 |
The Mangler
FA: Kevin Smith, Andrew Smith & Michelle Mears, 1980 | 21 | 75m | |||||
2018-19 Eagle sectorA pair of Verreaux Eagles (black eagles) is nesting and had chicks in the nest in 2018! Same nesting site reused in 2019. The climbing is restricted between Mcfats LGP and Bottleneck Bulge. | ||||||||
9 |
★★★ Mcfat's Lgp
FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1971 | 19 | 90m | |||||
10 |
Rockin Me Gently
FA: John Brown & Campbell Cairns, 1981 | 20 | 75m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Corpuscle
FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1975 | 19 | 80m | |||||
12 |
★★ Van Der Merwe's Crack
FA: .V. Richter, N. Margetts, L. J. Richter & D. Margetts, 1984 | 17 | 100m | |||||
13 |
Hanepoot
FA: H. Boshoff, G. Graafland & C. Malherbe, 1974 | 17 | 160m | |||||
14 |
★★ Vintage 48
FA: Paul Fatti & Gordon Erens, 1991 | 21 | 90m | |||||
15 |
Madeira
FA: K. Kroger, A. Koster, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 16 | 150m | |||||
16 |
Wise Crack
FA: Paul Schlotfeldt & Russ Dodding, 1985 | 21 | 35m | |||||
17 |
Continental
FA: J. Pupich, P. Solar, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 16 | 130m | |||||
18 |
Sesame
FA: J. du Plessis & D. Lubbe, 1966 | 14 | 130m | |||||
19 |
C'est L'escalade
FA: K.M. Smith, 1988 | 25 | 25m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Bottleneck Bulge
FA: K. Kroger, D. Steenkamp, E. Lubbe & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 16 | 120m | |||||
2018-19 Eagle sector EndA pair of Verreaux Eagles (black eagles) is nesting and had chicks in the nest in 2018! Same nesting site reused in 2019. | ||||||||
22 |
★★ Muscadel Crack
FA: K. Kroger & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 17 | 140m | |||||
23 |
Cabernet - Muscadel Rap route
With 50m ropes, the last 3 raps can be combined as 2 Tracciata: Clive Curson, 1994 | |||||||
24 |
★★ Jesd
FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1977 | 19 | 95m | |||||
25 |
★★★ JESD Direct
FA: Hector Pringle, Andrew Porter & Warren Gans, 2013 | 23 | 50m | |||||
26 |
★★ The Grips of Wrath
FA: Russ Dodding, 1995 | 21 | 25m | |||||
27 |
★★ Cabernet
FA: H. Graafland & H. Boshoff, 1974 | 18 | 120m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Johnny Walker
FA: Hector Pringle & Andrew Porter, 2013 | 24 | 20m | |||||
29 |
★★★ Witblitz
FA: Paul Fatti, Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1993 | 22 | 100m | |||||
30 |
★★ Crankenstein
FA: Russ Dodding, 1995 | 23 | 25m | |||||
31 |
That Furry Thing
FA: George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1987 | 21 | 110m | |||||
32 |
★★★ The Key
FA: K. Smith, 1982 | 21 | 120m, 7 | |||||
33 |
★★★ Hot Rod
FA: Craig de Villiers & Tim Dunnett, 2013 | 18 | 60m, 2 | |||||
34 |
★★★ Dancing on a Highwire
FA: K.M. Smith, George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1985 | 24 | 100m, 5 | |||||
35 |
★★ Some Like It Hot
FA: 1975 FFA: A. Smith & K. Smith, 1979 | 20 | 120m | |||||
36 |
Let It Be
FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1975 | 19 | 110m | |||||
37 |
Group-Grope
FA: Dave Cheesmond & Chris Lomax, 1979 | 20 | ||||||
38 |
Walking on Air
FA: J. Brown, I. Slatem & D. Young, 1986 | 20 | 78m | |||||
39 |
Shisa
FA: Alan Lambert & Charles Edelstein, 1983 | 20 | 75m | |||||
40 |
Gang-Bang
FA: Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond, 1979 | 21 | ||||||
41 |
★★ Reluctance
FA: I. McLachlan & M. Makowski, 1968 | 18 | 140m | |||||
42 |
★ All-Spice
FA: Art McGarr & Paul Fatti, 1974 | 22 | 170m | |||||
43 |
★★ American Werewolf
FA: L. Chambers & Tarquin Holt, 1982 | 22 | 70m | |||||
44 |
★ Tassenberg
FA: Art McGarr & Paul Fatti, 1975 | 20 | 80m | |||||
45 |
★★ Mature Wine
FA: Paul Fatti & Russ Dodding, 1989 | 20 | 70m | |||||
46 |
Brazilian Bandit
FA: Eckhart Druschke & Jerry Linke, 1975 | 19 | 75m | |||||
47 |
Cockrobin
FA: Jerry Linke & Clive Ward, 1975 | 16 A2 | 85m | |||||
48 |
Naboom Nuisance
FA: D. Steenkamp, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 13 |
1.3. The Pillar of Eros 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata trad
Lat / Long: -25.633810, 28.996800
avvicinamento
Descent off the Pillar of Eros (aka The Western crag) is via rapping off trees.
etica
A pair of Black eagles nest on top of the pillar, so avoid climbing there during the Black Eagle Nesting season (April to Mid- November)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Arrow of Eros
FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1974 | 17 A2 | 120m | |||
2 |
Pillar of Eros
FA: . Dawson, P. Norton, C. Sherlock, T. Hoy & M. Asher, 1973 | 15 | 75m |
1.4. Test Area 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata sportiva
Lat / Long: -25.626688, 29.005803
descrizione
A large grassy ledge give access to a rock face high above the river. Access to the ledge via 2 consecutive routes.
avvicinamento
After the access cable to the trad area : look left from the tree the cable is tied on.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Easier Than it Looked
first Access part to the Shelf ledge. Follows a stone ramp left of the end of the cable used to access the trad area. FA: T. Botha & Andrew Louw, 5 Ott 2014 | 13 | 15m, 3 | |||
2 |
★★ Expectations
Second access part to the Shelf ledge. Note that this route is over-bolted to allow a beginner to gain the easier multi pitch routes from The Shelf. If clipping the first bolt, extend it to prevent rope drag. Split in 2 pitches to allow sight on the second(s) when belaying on top. FA: Andrew Louw, 4 Ott 2014 | 16 | 29m, 2, 13 | |||
3 |
Misgis
FA: Andrew Louw, Ott 2014 | 15 | 65m, 3, 8 | |||
4 |
Eagle's Squirt
Starts on the grassy ledge, few paces after Misgis. You can abseil in but finding the draws from the top is difficult. 1st pitch: 17 (8D, A) obvious up V shaped break. Delicate step over. 2nd pitch: 17 (9D, A) 4 bolts strait up then diagonally left (do not use the loose block marked with X) and up another 5 bolts to top out. Sloightly overhanging. Bolted by Odette Lippold FA: Andrew Louw, 14 Ago 2021 | 17 | 60m, 2, 17 | |||
5 |
★★ KOEKIE DEEG
Starts on the grassy ledge, around the corner from Eagle's Squirt. You can abseil in but difficult to find the bolts from the top. You MUST have at least 60m rope to climb. The route Tops out. 1st pitch 18 (9D, A) Koekie Deeg 2nd pitch 18 (10D, A) Stop Asseblief Tracciata: Andrew Louw & Odette Lippold, 2019 FA: Andrew Louw, 2019 | 18 | 60m, 2, 19 |
1.5. Water solo cliff 0 routes in Cliff
descrizione
Some water solo climbing is available at the deep pool, below the cable installed to access the main crag.
note per la calata
Wet
1.6. Ship's Prow 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata sportiva
Lat / Long: -25.628195, 29.009191
descrizione
Sport Climbing area
avvicinamento
at the very top of Broad Gully on the true left hand side.
note per la calata
all routes are equipped with anchors to lower off or one can scramble down the back of the face to your right and down the small gully.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Shiver me Timbers
FA: Ken Thrash & Paul Fatti, Dic 2014 FA: Ken Thrash, Gen 2015 | 18 | 15m, 5 | |||
2 |
★★★ HeaveHo
FA: Ken Thrash, Dic 2014 | 21 | 15m, 7 | |||
3 |
★★ Scallywag
FA: Ken Thrash, Gen 2015 | 22 | 18m | |||
4 |
Savvy
FA: Ken Thrash, Dic 2014 | 18 | 22m, 5 | |||
5 |
★★ Yarr
FA: Ken Thrash, Dic 2014 FA: Ken Thrash & Chris Ziranek, Gen 2015 | 18 | 20m, 6 | |||
6 |
★★★ Booty
The free standing blocks on top look dangerous, hence the lower off anchors have been placed below them. It is suggested that you not climb these free standing blocks. FA: Ken Thrash & Paul Fatti, Dic 2014 FA: Ken Thrash, Gen 2015 | 19 | 20m, 6 | |||
7 |
★★ Crow’s Nest
FA: Ken Thrash & Chris Ziranek, Feb 2015 | 22 | 25m, 9 |