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Don Quijote Guide

  • Contesto grado: FR
  • Foto: 3
  • Ascensioni: 380
  • Aka: Coro Alto

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

montaraz Luis Compte Mirko Calodedio alonsoATCO Dani Gaston Quique Jimenez Mag Sebastian Schwertner

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Montaraz Climbing Club (Copyright Montaraz Climbing Club)

Table of contents

1. Don Quijote 31 routes in Sector

Summary:
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F
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A
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L
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S
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D

Stagionalità

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 40.129401, -0.672867

descrizione

==[en]==

Large sector in the center of the Casucho riff. To get there go to the left from 'Steinschleuder' or to the right from 'Horzelbub' on small trails. Steep climbing on very abrasive rock up to 25m on some beautiful natural lines are the positive facts the extreme sun trap after noon is the opposite point.

==[de]==

Grosser Sektor in der Mitte vom Casucho. Zustieg entweder rechtshaltend vom 'Horzelbub' oder linkshaltend von der 'Steinschleuder' am Wandfuss entlang. Steiler und zum Teil sehr rauer Fels mit einer Höhe von bis zu 25m. Einige Wege folgen schönen Linien entlang von Rissen und Verschneidungen. Die Sonne erreicht den Sektor gegen Mittag.

==[es]==

Sector grande en el centro del Casucho. Acceder al pie de la pared desde 'Horzelbub' o 'Steinschleuder'. Roca buena y muy vertical con una altura hasta 25m. Unas vías hermosas siguen fisuras y diedros. El sol entra aproximadamente al mediodía.

©

etica

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).
ereditato da Aragon

storia

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hzQXOMuiYE

©
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Don Quijote

2 Susurrando a Sebastián

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dic 2015

FA: Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dic 2015

6a+ Sportiva 10
3 Rocinante

The corner to the left of the small pillar leads to a steep headwall with pockets. Go right at the end to the anchors of 'Rucio' .

An der linken Rissverschneidung vom Pfeiler zur löchrigen und steilen Headwall dann nach rechts und wie 'Rucio' aussteigen.

Pasar el diedro izquierdo del espolón (fisura) a la pared vertical. Se reúne con 'Rucio' al llegar a la penúltima chapa.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

FA: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

6a+ Sportiva 19m, 10
4 Rucio

Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets. Same anchors as 'Rosinante'.

Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern zum gemeinsamen Umlenker mit 'Rosinante'.

Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre. La misma reu como 'Rosinante'.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

FA: Nicky & Mirko, 2012

6a Sportiva 19m, 9
5 Sancho Panza

The small pillar from the ground leads to a crack with good pockets and crimps. Before you climb to the right chain a awkward move up to the ledge is waiting on you.

Über kleinen Pfeiler hin zur markanten Rissverschneidung an schönen Löchern und Leisten hin zum abdrängenden Überhang weiter nach rechts zum Umlenker.

Un pequeño espolón lleva a una fisura con buenos agujeros y listones. Poco antes de girar a la derecha te espera un movimiento algo raro.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

FA: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 12 Dic 2015

6a+ Sportiva 21m, 12
6 Luchar contra Molinos de Viento

Reachy and sustained pocket pulling with poor footholds are the first crux of this nice climb. At the top it also takes the crux of 'Don Quijote' and the same anchors.

Ausdauernde Lochkletterei mit Crux im Überhang führt zu steiler Tropflochplatte. Am Ende noch über die Crux vom 'Don Quijote' hin zum gemeinsamen Umlenker.

Escalada persistente y desplomada con malos puntapiés (primera crux) y pared vertical a la crux de 'Don Quijote' y a la misma reu.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

FA: Nicky & Mirko, 2012

7a Sportiva 24m, 13
7 Don Quijote

An enjoyably and long dihedral with a thin finish.

Schöne und lange Verschneidungskletterei hin zur kleingriffigeren Crux kurz vor dem Umlenker - sehr zu Empfehlen.

Escalda larga de diedro con una crux fina al llegar a la reu.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 2012

FA: Nicky & Mirko, 2012

6b Sportiva 25m, 13
8 Caballero de los Leones

Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets with a slightly sustained finish.

Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern mit Ausdauerfinale.

Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Mirko & Nicky, 13 Dic 2015

FA: Anika, 13 Dic 2015

6b+ Sportiva 25m, 12
9 Hidalgo SportivaProgetto
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Dulcinea

Steep face climbing with an interesting finish. Stop at the anchors of 'Aldonza' for a 6a.

Steile Wandkletterei mit schönem Ausstieg der etwas Übersicht verlangt. Für eine 6a am Umlenker von 'Aldonza' abseilen.

Escalada vertical con una salida a la reunion interesante. 6a hasta la reunión de 'Aldonza'.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 2012

FA: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 2012

6b Sportiva 22m, 10
11 Grisóstomo

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Nido de avispón

Interisting and varied route that shares the last bolt and the anchor with 'Aldonza'.

Interessante und abwechsulgsreiche Route, teilt sich den letzten Bolt und den Umlenker mit 'Aldonza'.

Vía interesante y variada, comprate el ultimo bolt y la reu con 'Aldonza'.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Calodedio & Mirko, 10 Gen 2016

FFA: Calodedio, 10 Gen 2016

6a+ Sportiva 18m, 9
12 Aldonza

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Nido de avispón

This enjoyable moderate climbing follows a small pillar to the lower anchors.

Folgt einer Rampe in genüsslicher Kletterei zum Stand in Wandmitte.

Escalada placentera siguiendo una rampa a la reunion en el medio de la pared.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 2012

FA: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 2012

5c Sportiva 18m, 7
13 El Toboso

Nice pocket pulling. The crux is a bit more sustained as you might expect.

Schönes Lochgehangel mit anhaltender Crux.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Calodedio & Mirko, 5 Gen 2015

FA: Mirko, 5 Gen 2015

6b Sportiva 21m, 9
14 La fres-cura

Technical start and finish with huge jugs in between to pull trough.

Technischer Ein- und Ausstieg und dazwischen ein paar riesen Henkel zum durchziehen.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Alejandra Risquez & Calodedio, 2013

FA: Alejandra Risquez & Calodedio, 2013

6a+ Sportiva 22m, 12
15 Brocabruno

The awkward start might give you a good pump.

Wer am Start schon viel falsch macht wird sich oben über die dicken Arme beschweren.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Alejandra Risquez, Calodedio & Ximof, 2013

FA: Ximof & Calodedio, 2013

6b Sportiva 20m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Coro Alto

17 Viatge a Ítaca

Entra por fisura, sigue por placa inclinada y acaba por ligero desplome con buen canto.

FA: Tomás Vives, 1 Set 2023

FA: Equipadores Claudia Compte y Luis Compte, 1 Set 2023

5b Sportiva 14m, 7
18 Telendos

The route on the left end of 'Coro Alto' offers a good climb on a dihedral, face and a bulge. It might be interesting for beginners due to the number of bolts.

Linker Weg im 'Coro Alto' Sektor durch schöne Verschneidung, Wand und einen Bauch. Geringe Hakendichte - gut für Vorstiegsaspiranten.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

FA: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

5 Sportiva 14m, 7
19 Masouri

Kniffliger Einstieg und dann Verschneidung. Wer den Baum am Einstieg mitbenutzt, macht es sich leichter. Selber Umlenker wie 'Telendos'.

An awkward start is followed by a dihedral. Who uses the tree avoids the crux. Same anchors as 'Telendos'.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

FA: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

6a Sportiva 14m, 6
20 Cincuentenario

Dihedral, a overhang and sustained pocketing - well worth it.

Verschneidung, Überhang und Ausdauerhenkel - sehr lohnend.

Diedro, un desplome y agujeros en constancia - vale la pena.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Rafa Sorribes, 12 Ott 2014

6b Sportiva 16m, 8
21 Los 3 jinetes del apocalipsis

Tracciata: Mirko & Calodedio, Feb 2020

6c Sportiva 16m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 El 8º mandamiento

In schöner und abwechslungsreicher Kletterei bis zum letzten Bolt. Dann etwas exponiert mit Rechtsschleife zur Crux kurz vorm Umlenker: Guten Flug!

Nice and diversified climbing until the last bolt. Now comes the expo and right bending crux: Have a nice flight!

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Tracciata: Enric Muñoz, 11 Ott 2014

6b+ Sportiva 18m, 8
23 Apocalipsis

Tracciata: Mirko & Calodedio, 26 Feb 2020

Sportiva 17m, 6
24 A Tarifa y no hay viento

Tracciata: Calodedio & Alejandra Risquez, Mar 2022

6b Sportiva 10m, 5
25 Madera de árbol

FA: Asun, 13 Mag 2023

Tracciata: Asun Vives y Luis Compte, 13 Mag 2023

5c Sportiva 9m, 4
26 Cantoral

Tracciata: Tomás Vives y Luis Compte, 11 Mar 2023

FA: Carlos Ruíz, 11 Mar 2023

4c Sportiva 10m, 4
27 Faristol

FFA: Luis, 27 Gen 2023

Tracciata: Luis Compte, 27 Gen 2023

5a Sportiva 11m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 Púlpito

Tracciata: Mirko & Calodedio, 6 Giu 2020

5b Sportiva 8m, 4
29 Presbiterio

Tracciata: Mirko & Calodedio, 1 Mar 2020

6a+ Sportiva 12m, 6
30 Trascoro

Tracciata: Mirko & Calodedio, 1 Mar 2020

6a Sportiva 12m, 6
31 Chulescencia

Está a la izquierda de la Ley de Brandolini. Había una hiedra que se ha secado y por eso hemos podido abrirla. Entra por fisura-diedro, pasa por una repisa y termina en una placa vertical.

FA: Asun Vives, 29 Ott 2023

5c Sportiva 18m, 9
32 Ley de Brandolini

FFA: Calodedio

Tracciata: Tomás Vives & Luis Compte, 27 Mar 2022

5a Sportiva 18m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 Medios de desinformación

FA: Tomás Vives

Tracciata: Asun Vives, Tomás Vives & Luis Compte, 8 Mag 2022

5a Sportiva 18m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4c Cantoral Sportiva 10m, 4
5a Faristol Sportiva 11m, 5
Ley de Brandolini Sportiva 18m, 7
Medios de desinformación Sportiva 18m, 7
5 Telendos Sportiva 14m, 7
5b Púlpito Sportiva 8m, 4
Viatge a Ítaca Sportiva 14m, 7
5c Aldonza Sportiva 18m, 7
Chulescencia Sportiva 18m, 9
Madera de árbol Sportiva 9m, 4
6a Masouri Sportiva 14m, 6
Rucio Sportiva 19m, 9
Trascoro Sportiva 12m, 6
6a+ Grisóstomo Sportiva 18m, 9
La fres-cura Sportiva 22m, 12
Presbiterio Sportiva 12m, 6
Rocinante Sportiva 19m, 10
Sancho Panza Sportiva 21m, 12
Susurrando a Sebastián Sportiva 10
6b A Tarifa y no hay viento Sportiva 10m, 5
Brocabruno Sportiva 20m, 9
Cincuentenario Sportiva 16m, 8
Don Quijote Sportiva 25m, 13
Dulcinea Sportiva 22m, 10
El Toboso Sportiva 21m, 9
6b+ Caballero de los Leones Sportiva 25m, 12
El 8º mandamiento Sportiva 18m, 8
6c Los 3 jinetes del apocalipsis Sportiva 16m, 9
7a Luchar contra Molinos de Viento Sportiva 24m, 13
? Apocalipsis Sportiva 17m, 6
Hidalgo SportivaProgetto
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