Aiuto

Kebnekaise massif Guide

  • Contesto grado: SWE
  • Ascensioni: 17

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Thomas Weber Philip C Pedro I. Méndez (NACHO)

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Kebnekaise massif

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

9 routes in Area

Tutti Alpinismo

Lat / Long: 67.890310, 18.530954

sommario

Swedens most famous mountain area with the highest peak, Kebnekaise.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: https://access.klatterforbundet.se/

ereditato da Sweden

avvicinamento

Road ends at Nikkaloukta which is one hour drive from city of Kiruna

1.1. Skartåive 1744m

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 67.838892, 18.556735

sommario

Skartåive is the a peak located to the S of the valley in wich Kebnekaise fjällstation is located. In winter the waterfall coming down from the upper plateu freezes and can be climbed.

avvicinamento

From Nikkaloukta to Kebnekaise fjällstation can be done by ski-doo or skies.

dove alloggiare

Kebnekaise fjällstation

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Ice-fall

The obvious line going up the N-face of Skartåive.

{FR} WI5 TD Alpinistica

1.2. Toulpagorni, 1662m

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

3 routes in Crag

Lat / Long: 67.871902, 18.521970

sommario

One of the most classic mountains of the area and the major peak seen from Kebnekaise mountain hut. Has a number of classic routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 S-face (Siluetten) route

A classic climb in the area. Takes the siloutte as seen from Kebnekaise mountain hut.

{FR} D Alpinistica 500m
2 N-crater ridge

An easy climb on the N-ridge of the "crater" at the top of Toulpagorni. Walk up the ridge coming down from the snow filled crater. Then cross the crater to reach start of N-ridge. Follow ridge, with some passages of grade II climbing, to summit.

2 Alpinistica 150m
3 S-crater rige 3- Alpinistica 100m

1.3. Vierramvare, 1710m

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

1 route in Crag

Lat / Long: 67.882854, 18.506975

sommario

Not a proper mountain but more a lump passed on the Western route to Ascend Kebnekaise. Has a classic snow couloir on it's E-face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E-couloir Vierremvare-rännan

Snow couoir of up to 50 degrees at end. In winter an corniche may form at the exit.

IFAS:AD Alpinistica 400m

1.4. Kebnekaise S-summit, 2117m

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

1 route in Crag

Lat / Long: 67.898406, 18.533240

sommario

Used to be highest point of Sweden but due to melting snow cap it has become lower than N-summit 2097m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E-route (Östra leden)

Start from Kebnekaise mountain hut up to Björlings glacier. Cross glacier and mount a snow ridge to reach the E-face of Kebnekaise where a traverse lead to a rock gully which is followed to the summit plateau. From here ascend N until summit snow cone can be seen and reach summit.

{FR} F Alpinistica 1400m

1.5. Kebnepakte, 1990m

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

1 route in Crag

sommario

Summit N of Kebnekaise.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E-ridge

East ridge/buttress follows the obvious line to the summit. Rock climbing up to grade 3.

IFAS:AD Alpinistica 400m

1.6. Kaskasapakte 2043m

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

2 routes in Crag

Lat / Long: 67.933667, 18.541768

sommario

Mountain north of Tarfala valley. Has some nice and fairly solid rock. The North face among the most difficult in the region.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 SW-ridge

Start from the mountan pass between Tarfala and Koupervagge. Climb the ridge with several steps of grade 2-3 climbing.

{FR} PD Alpinistica 400m
2 E-ridge

The E-ridge is normally climbed in descent after ascending via SW-ridge. From the summit follow ridge until the "gap" which is a cut in the ridge that needs to be overcome. Then follow ridge easily until one can either, 1) descend on snow field down to Tarfala or 2) continue up Kaskasatjåkka in order to descend snow field E of summit.

{FR} AD Alpinistica 500m

1.7. Kaskasatjåkka 2076m

sommario

Mountain N of Tarfala valley.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
2 N-crater ridge Alpinistica 150m 1.2. Toulpagorni, 1662m
3- S-crater rige Alpinistica 100m 1.2. Toulpagorni, 1662m
WI5 TD Great Ice-fall Alpinistica 1.1. Skartåive 1744m
AD E-couloir Vierremvare-rännan Alpinistica 400m 1.3. Vierramvare, 1710m
E-ridge Alpinistica 400m 1.5. Kebnepakte, 1990m
E-ridge Alpinistica 500m 1.6. Kaskasapakte 2043m
D S-face (Siluetten) route Alpinistica 500m 1.2. Toulpagorni, 1662m
F E-route (Östra leden) Alpinistica 1400m 1.4. Kebnekaise S-summit, 2117m
PD SW-ridge Alpinistica 400m 1.6. Kaskasapakte 2043m
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文