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Vie in Gritstoneberget

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Tutti 24 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
{FR} 6/6+ Slå mig med slickepotten

Start up a few meters left of the block on the ground (Tummeliten) where there is a crack, then red rock (run out), thereafter a small dieder. Aim towards the pine tree close to the top.

FA: Claes Jelinek & Martin Andersson, 1986

Trad 15m
{FR} 6 Tummeliten

Starts on top of the block on the ground. A few meters up is crack which starts with a hole.

FA: Lars Grankvist & Lars Svadängs, 1981

Trad 16m
{FR} 5b Den joggande myran

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

FA: Rikard Hedman & Lars Svadängs

Trad 16m
{FR} 4a Amandas lov

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Lars Grankvist & Lars Johansson

Trad 16m
{FR} 6b+ Jinx

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old (potentially / probably not safe) bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

FA: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

Trad mista 16m, 2
{FR} 6b Svettiga grisen

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs

Trad 16m
{FR} 6b+ Svettiga grisen (variation)

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

FA: Björn Myrer Lund

Trad 16m
{FR} 5a Stäppvargen

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

FA: Lars Svadängs & Kenneth Nolkrantz

Trad 16m
{US} FR:6b Tveksamma Skorpionen

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

Trad 16m
{FR} 6c Tveksamma trender

FA: Lars Svadängs & Christer Åstrand

Trad mista 16m, 1
{FR} 6c Skorpionens trender

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

Trad 16m
{FR} 5+ Skorpionen
Trad 16m
{FR} 6c Himmel blå

Bolt replaced 2022.

FA: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber

Trad mista 15m, 1
{FR} 6b Tvivelaktiga tendenser

FA: Choe Brooks & Jan Liliemark

Trad 15m
{FR} 6b Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1)

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

Trad 15m
{FR} 6b Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2)

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

Trad 15m
{FR} 6/6+ Mental istid

Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.

FA: Johan Sandberg, 2014

FFA: Johan Sandberg & Adam Montén Kovacs, 2014

Trad 15m
{FR} 5c - 6a+ No exit

FFA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1980

Trad 15m
{FR} 6b+ Examen

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

FA: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

Trad mista 15m, 2
{FR} 5c - 6a Björntjänst

FFA: Björn Alber & Anna Groth, 1987

Trad 15m
6 Miol

Start 2m left from Urkki

FA: Johan Sandberg & Lats Thoren, 2019

Trad
{FR} 6b Urkki

FA: Petri Lintinen

Trad mista 14m, 1
5+ Olovlig körning

Small cams useful

FFA: Thomas Weber & Ulrica Sundberg, 1989

Trad 12m
{FR} 6c Shift/Control

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top. Bolt replaced 2022.

FFA: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber, 1986

Trad mista 14m, 1

Tutti 24 vie visualizzati.

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