Vie in Graubünden del grado selezionato

Gear:

1x BD 0.2 - 3, doubles of 0.3-1 helpful. Medium stopper for pitch four. 6 quickdraws + 4 extendable draws

Topo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4ahfclaaz06euk/Zervreilahorn_Holy%20Smoke_v210922.pdf?dl=0

Topo available for download on blog of first ascensionist.

Topo

Start

at 47.04478028, 9.48460516

Zustieg:

Take the way in the direction of Mozentobel. First curve of the path going on the right, go left, follow the countour lines until Föhnmaur south part. Follow the cliff until you go up a bit, more open area with a dead leaning tree. Start on back wall, before first belay is an overhang white part. Check picture in comments.

Topo

Very good quality first 3 pitches. Last pitch (7a) has a lot of very loose rocks and does not feel like a 7a at all (much harder) - although easy with aid installed couple of strings).

Belaying off the 3rd belay might not be easy has the 3rd pitch goes right quite a lot.

Fantastic route which is very well protected. There is no need to carry trad gear with you. This is one of the most frequently climbed lines in Rätikon and with good reason.

Descent:

Abseil down over the route. For the two upper pitches you take another way to get down: Take the top anchor and follow the obvious ramp facing westwards, passing a giant characteristic hole (50m). You will get to another anchor from where you get back to the route (25m).

links von "Galadriel", Einstieg bei einer „gebohrten“ Sanduhr-Schlinge

Gear:

50m-rope, 12 Express (min. 5 verlängerbare), Cams 0.2-0.75 (evtl. 1 und 2), Keile

6b obl.

Topo available for download.

unknown number of bolts

unknown number of bolts

Starts at 'Via Güfi' and goes to the left in the first pitch

Obere Ostwand 100m weiter rechts oben