Dream Wall - Ao Nang Multipitch Tutte Arrampicata sportiva 1 via in parete

FUN DEE

Dream Wall, Ao Nang

6b+, 138m (Plus 7a+ bonus 12m pitch)

Approach:

Follow the fixed line to the right all the way to the first bolt. The route is located left of the tree stump.

1. 30m, 15 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10c (6b) Start on okay rock past a stump. Then into great but tricky white pockets and side pulls. Belay at slot ledge.

2. 30m, 15 bolts 5.10b (6a+) Start in steep exposed climbing to a good rest and then up fantastic rock. Belay at nice hanging ledge 7m below the 420 bivy cave.

3. 25m, 13 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10a (6a) Climb more great rock past the 420 cave and through the chute. Back clean a draw or two to avoid drag. Belay at a hanging rap station OR move belay left to nicer ledge (must build own anchor on two bolts)

4. 30m, 14 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10d (6b+) Trend left to steep pocket cruxy move. Then some steep tuffa. Belay at a sharp ledge.

5. 23m, 9 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10b (6a+) Starts sharp and gets good with a cruxy compression move up high. Sick stem finale out to the mega diving board (which has free wifi)!

6. (bonus pitch) 12m, 5 bolts, 2 slings, 5.12a (7a+) Steep exposed tufa!

Make sure to sign the summit register when reaching the platform.

Descent:

6-5: lower to the diving board

5-4: abseil

4-3: swing right to anchor with ring

3-2: back clip in chute to stay in close to the wall (important!)

2-1: swing right to reach slot

1-ground: abseil

Required:

16 draws Single 60m rope Long anchor sling (optional)