Vie in Wye Valley del grado selezionato

5b,4b,4b,5b.

Recently been cleaned - nice interesting climb. 5b,5b.

Good moves on excellent rock, but both neighbours are compromised by it's proximity and pegs. Continue direct past the first peg runner and up the wall past three more. Minor variants in line and difficulty are possible.

5b,4c

plenty of pro on first pitch, properly respected and looked after, the oak sapling will make an excellent runner. Second pitch is "balls out," no pro on solid 4c ledges that require bold mantling moves and therefore gets its well deserved HVS status. Once on the 2nd pitch there is no going back.

Just left of the bottom of The Easy Way Down is a heavily shaded wall. The wall left of the disjointed square-cut grooves has a bouldery start and easier but bold climbing above.

The left side of the arete with gear midway is a good-looking line but little-travelled and a bit grubby at the start.

08/05/2016 - It has been report that the upper thread is no long viable due to the rock failing after a fall. Take care on future ascents and back up the other left-hand side thread!

A sting in the tail. Climb directly up the wall behind the right ash to the prominent bulge (in situ thread just below). Pull round slightly rightwards to reach easier ground and then The Broadwalk. Tree belay above. Less adrenalin flows for an easier finish (HVS 5a, and just independent of Black Wall) from the thread up the left-hand side of the bulge.

Sustained climbing with the main difficulties in the narrow corner/groove. Start at the large open corner, as for Valley Forge. Climb the corner (thread) and short steeper section at its top before moving right and up to a thread (not in place) just left of the base of the narrow corner/groove high on the face. Enter the narrow corner/groove and climb it to a tricky exit and ledge above. Finish as for Valley Forge, up easier angled rock and flakes to a belay on The Easy Way Down ledges. It is possible to move right to the bolt belay/lower-off at the end of pitch one of Therapy after the hard exit from the narrow corner/groove.

Climb the dusty red rib for a couple of metres until a short traverse left gains an old peg and thread (belonging to some long forgotten route, I don’t know which). Now climb up the rib above on interesting holds avoiding the poorer rock to the right. Next move up with good gear to a horizontal slot. Taking care with the rock, pull up under the roof and bridge right, 2 pegs. Now pull up to the right over the lip, peg, and make a short traverse right along the break to join up with Whatever the Weatherley. Finish as for Whatever the Weatherley.

A few metres to the left of Loan Shark is a large cave. Start in the centre of the cave.

From the cave floor mantle up onto the dusty ledge on the right. Traverse right along the ledge to the arete, a thin crack and the first gear. Move up the rib to a peg. Now using caution, move up and left through a patch of poor rock, and attain a bridged position above the apex of the cave. Now move over the roof past an old flattened staple bolt. Continue over more steep rock to an easing under a final overhang (keeping to the right of VapourWare). Pull over the final roof keeping away from the line of flattened staple bolts to the right (Foot in Mouth?). The climb now joins VapourWare after its flake crack and finishes at its two bolt belay.

First pitch is steep and quite sustained. One or two good moves through the overhangs make it interesting and worthwhile.

Start at the tree and bushes 5m left of the foot of 'clutching at straws'. Boldly climb the arete on delicate flow stone, tree runner, past a hidden borehole (M/L cam) to the right, to a stepped ledge system. Step up to the foot of the continuing arete carefully, to reach blocks and various protection options. Continue up the arete above, steeply on suspect rock, turning it to its left, past good gear, to reach a perched blocky flake. Surmount this, thus finishing the arete and trend leftwards to an exit. Pass through bushes, past a substantial tree and 2 rock tiers to reach the left most extreme of the central rib exits. Tree belay at top, fence is becoming delapedated.

A sustained technical route requiring commitment and care. A good selection of micro-wires will prove useful. Four pegs help protect the route. Finish at a two-peg and tree belay. The belay pegs are fitted with mallions to facilitate an abseil descent.

Marked start in a corner with obvious rockfall. Nice sustained jamming, considered a classic of the grade.

No use of the jugs out right, otherwise this is 6A+.