Aiuto

Serenade Arete Area

  • Contesto grado: UK
  • Ascensioni: 38

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

The side face is surprisingly blank apart from a line of old bolts rising diagonally from right to left. The routes are mostly hard and best left to those who have mastered the art of sandstone climbing (and levitation). The bolts are not to be used for lead protection and are dangerous for this purpose. The front face has some of Bowles' most treasured routes.

Etica ereditato da Bowles Rocks

We strongly advise using liquid chalk whenever possible.

Prior to beginning your climb, ensure that your climbing shoes are clean. To do so, it's necessary to use a mat or a piece of carpet to wipe your feet. This measure will significantly decrease the damage to the crag caused by wear and tear.

To set up a top-rope belay, use a non-stretch sling and be sure to keep the Karabiner positioned over the crag's edge. Avoid allowing the moving rope to make contact with the rock, as is typical of all sandstone crags.

Do not employ boulder brushes or toothbrushes to clean the rock, as this will cause damage and make it more difficult to climb.

Ensure that your dogs are kept on a leash and not permitted to wander freely.

Vie

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Step onto the ledge, reach upper break without old bolt. Proceed with difficulty over lip, lay-back using large flake to continue.

This is a strenuous and difficult-to-protect traverse along a long, high break between Patella and the finish of Digitalis.

Ascend the upper break using small pockets, move right to reach out-of-bounds bolts at the groove, and levitate with difficulty to finish.

The climb starts with a challenging beginning with few footholds and progresses to improved edges, culminating at the break.

A boulder leading to the initial break.

Ascend to the initial break.

Traverse along the lower break from right to left.

This is a good alternative to Minimum Orr, requiring finger strength and avoiding use of the lower break.

Climb the precarious and fingery face without using the old rusty bolts.

This climb features enjoyable face climbing on somewhat used holds. Begin on the pedestal and move up and right using a sequence of breaks to reach a small side-pull and a sloping ledge above. Finish by following the route of Inspiration. The direct start has a rating of 7a 6a.

Ascend the petite protrusion by grasping onto hand and footholds on either side, culminating at the edge.

Ascend the left side of the rock formation using only the left hand face, avoiding any holds on the right. Begin from a sitting position and exclude usage of the pocket to accomplish a 7A+ difficulty level.

The direct start to Digitalis.

Although lacking a formal name, this route is included in the 'Southern Sandstone Bouldering' guide book authored by James O'Neil and Ben Read.

Although lacking a formal name, this route is included in the 'Southern Sandstone Bouldering' guide book authored by James O'Neil and Ben Read.

The passage describes a popular climb up an open flake with a reach to the top break, followed by a traverse to the left onto a ledge on the arete and a precarious reach over the lip to grab a rounded ledge. The final moves are challenging due to the lack of footholds.

Commence by employing the uncomfortable and broad initial overhanging crevice of Inspiration, and then continue ascending up the staircase, following the same path as that of Sapper.

A brief crack, requiring dexterous finger work, leads to the roof section and then progresses to more demanding jamming techniques at the edge.

This brief challenge involves utilizing a sturdy flake to extend one's reach and conclude the climb by gripping a sizable sloper.

Perform a horizontal traverse from the left to the right, remaining beneath the overhang. Conclude the traverse just prior to ascending the corner by grasping onto a sturdy hold located within the break.

Embrace the protruding nose-shaped feature, ascending upwards between the initial crevice of Inspiration and the starting point of Juanita.

The challenging manoeuvrers result in gaining access to the slab, which is ascended through the centre of the surface until reaching the roof. Proceed to traverse the roof by utilising the crevice that stems from the aperture previously utilized by Sapper.

Commence your climb at a lower point situated between Juanita and One Nighter, relying on small crimps while being mindful to steer clear of the eroded region beneath the red line designated for your foothold.

Manoeuvrer out of the overhang using a combination of crimps and a slightly angled pocket, culminating at the second juggy break while refraining from utilizing handholds on neighbouring routes.

Ascend the wall located to the right of Sapper's hole by following any available route that leads to the overhang. Employ pockets to progress towards a slender ledge encircling the edge of the roof. Completing the climb requires a dynamic slap and a strenuous and sandy struggle.

Scale the overhang located two meters to the left of Burlap by utilizing sturdy handholds and a brief flake protruding from the wall slightly above. Proceed in a vertical direction to intersect with Sapper's route at the hole.

A classic adventure that shouldn't be missed: start on the right side of the arete, traverse left to the large flake, climb up to a hole in the roof, and push through to finish.

Direct start of Burlap

Ascend the slender lateral surface situated between Burlap and Yoyo.

Scale the left-hand arete of The Ly'in block located immediately to the right of Yoyo, which may involve utilizing a layback technique.

Ascend the left portion of the rock surface using your fingers, while avoiding the arete.

Scale the right side of the slab while utilising some of the same handholds as White Verdict.

Ascend the steep and set back slab using the edge located on the right-hand side until reaching the initial substantial ledge. Subsequently, proceed towards the centre by shifting towards the left and complete the climb using a direct path.

Ascending the impressive and steep corner is a thrilling experience. Commencing from the left side of the corner, ascend upwards and towards the right, utilising a sequence of hand and footholds to surmount the right side of the corner and overcome its notable crux move. Upon reaching the ledge above, finish up Inspiration.

Commence the climb following the same initial route as Sapper, although it is feasible to opt for a more direct start at 6b+. Subsequently, ascend the inclined left side of the arete (although it is also plausible to scale the right side). There are two methods to approach the upper wall, both graded similarly.

Utilise climbing or jamming techniques to ascend the crack. Alternatively, opt to solely ascend the slab, relying on the left-hand arete with a difficulty level of 6b.

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