Ascensioni in Stati Uniti d' America come vari tipologie da Steve Foy

No super obvious crux, important pockets and underclings, gets pumpy. Awesome!

Flipping out of the OW section was the crux of the route, but I thought the super bomber hand and finger jams made the route pretty darn cool. Placements were much better, but I still noticed significant mental blocks throughout the climb. Placed blue and gold stoppers at the bottom of the OW section, followed by purple, green, silver, and maybe even gold camalots.

This route had a lot of pretty darn strenuous liebacking. I got really wigged out and had to take on gear twice. I wasted a lot of time messing around with a blue hexentric near the bottom, and ended up just throwing in my #2 or #3 camalot. The crack was really shallow in some places, and I wasted a lot of time and energy trying to figure out what pieces to place and where. Easy but nerve racking roof section, as I was severely held back by my mental blocks of falling on gear.

Placed only 3 pieces on the first pitch, as I kept wasting time and effort screwing around with those darn hexes. It turned out that I only placed #2,3,4 camalots. Dan led the second pitch. I should have set up the first pitch belay anchors a little cleaner, utilizing the mimalist method of clipping in with the rope direct to save on slings that Dan could have used on the second pitch.

Dirty as shit up top, had some trouble figuring out the crux.

Good red river gorge overhanging pump fest. I wouldn't say this was 10c though, book lists it I think more correctly as 10a. Anywho, I went into this climb not looking to onsight, but it just went so smoothly and with good technique that I was able to take advantage of good form and breathing control.

Way better than Ledger line, the route right next to it. Really cool start if you go direct. Kinda wigged out when alex started talking to the rest of the group about the runout, and my concious mental blocks then became more noticeable. I noticed that I often caught the top of my toe on the rock, which makes me think that I'm dragging my feet and holding back from committing completely to the moves. I've been kinda bothered by some bad news about the new job, so this kinda threw my mental game off.

Warmup. Very smooth and focused, really helped to maintain good breathing.

Hardest part of this route and Moonbeam was trying to find what you wanted to use, as the holds were really hard to see due to the bulgy nature of the rock and the plethora of pockets. Breathing and focus was really good throughout the two routes.

Took 1 fall right after photo jug, and then got completely wasted right at the anchors. I chickened out and tried to break 3 fingers by grabbing the anchor chain. Should have stuck with it, but I let the conscious mind freak me out by thinking the fall was too long. In retrospect, it would have been fine, as it was an open air fall. Also could have saved energy after the photo jug by not wasting time and energy trying to go straight up and then left. Right horizontal crack is the way to go, then crank for the really high jug.

I really tried to focus on my breathing, balance, and observing the rock well. So many choices, that you could really work with what your body was good at.

Fell on top rope trying to figure out the roof move. Lieback section was super strenuous, and the roof move was super cool. Rest of the route is pretty straightforward after that. Anchors were kinda sketchy. The book says to rappel off a tree but we couldn't find a good tree to rappel from, so we just rapped off the old bolts.

Fun, very small and crimpy, pretty damn sharp too!

Small hands to full hands @ switch to slab. Kinda cool, really wigged me out though as I didn't know what to expect and tried to mess around for too long with green and red hexes. I ended up leap frogging a #1 camalot for the bottom section, and never leaving it in the crack. Would send easy with a couple extra #1 camalots and lunch. Placed a red hex at beginning in shallow stopper mode, frogged a #1 camalot, #4 camalot or purple hexentric for the wide section. Threw in a bomber .75 camalot right above, and then a super sweet #2 camalot before the anchors.

Pretty cool, the beta from alex was super helpful.

Borrowed a #1 camalot, and 3 wild country tech friends. Now that I could fire in pro near the bottom w/o messing w/ hexes, this sent pretty easily. Placed two #1's in bottom, then threw in the purple hex at the bottom of the wide section. Followed that up with a .75 and #2 camalots near the top.

Awesome route, but long and commiting as shit for me. Placed almost my entire rack but for nuts and tricams, still was run out though. Really freaked me out like 50-75 feet of C crack traverse. Anchors for the first belay are way the hell up there. Lots of pretty good hexes in camming mode. Not 100% confident in them though, but I wouldn't have been able to climb and protect it otherwise. Was so intent on keeping the #3 camalot on my rack for up top that I never placed it, which was pretty stupid on my part as it would have given me huge piece of mind. Also, instead of rapping off of the tree, I would prefer to rap off the first anchor, would be much safer.

Took just the gear I knew I would need, and now that I knew about that sweet ledge and the bomber placements, I flew right through this sweet finger crack. Favorite climb of the trip.

First time on it got a little wigged out, had trouble deciding how much gear to place and where. Took a rest on a piece and then moved up a move or two and found a sweet ass ledge that I should have just pulled through to.

Way burly trad route, really need to work on the liebacking skills. I took a fall off of the route about 5 feet from the top from sheer exhaustion.

Juggy, a little balancy for a 5.7. Pretty good warmup to the trip.

Meh, reminded me of a juggy sport route more than anything else. Not the coolest route of the day, I much preferred the earlier trad lines to this type of climbing.

Super cool trad line, pretty good for only a third trad lead ever.