Vie in Boise

steep and sustained bolt protected climbing. an area classic.

Great short hand crack which transitions quickly to a much wider crack at midway up to a ledge. Easier climbing to the anchors. Stellar climb to hone your wide crack techniques. Super fun. Works well with either the Aunt Fannie/Buster Bronco anchors or the anchors to the right Of the toute. The Anchors to the right can be set for top rope by raping down from the Aunt Fannie anchors to a traverse ledge over to the anchors.

Lieback crack in a dihedral for 35 feet then pull to the left of a roof and finish on slab to bolted anchors. Very physical route for the grade.

Anchors are pretty rusty.

Hand to fist for most of the climb, until you get to the big ledge. Finger locks Past vertical with sparse feet will get you up the last 12 feet or so to the anchors. Bigger fingers will work against you on this section.

Follow the dihedral into a crack system. Then lieback past a bulge with thin feet on to a ledge below the anchors.

Gear is a little sparse but probably adequate for a leader experienced at the grade.

Two anchor bolts right above the roof.

Double dihedral which climbs very well with chimney moves once the surface holds start to thin out after the midpoint of the climb. The double dihedral peters out as you approach the anchors for a stellar and very physical finish. The final move is a slabby mantel on thin finger holds with the dearth of footholds as the main primary problem. A stellar but physical move once you figure it out. Something like four bolts but the entire line would protect well with mostly small cams.

Mountain project describes this route as 45'. I top rope soloed this twice with a 40 meter rope and reached the ground with about 5 feet of rope to spare. This tells me that the route is significantly longer then 45', probably at least 55 feet. 409, the route to the right, ends on the same anchors and so is the same length at 55 feet.

This route is very fun with plenty of juggy holds for the first thirty feet or so. But the holds thin out after that and the foot work becomes far more technical. The crux involves moving as high as you can on the off width crack on the right and then moving left to get under the anchors for Ajax. You actually finish on the crux moves for Ajax so this route should also share the same grade.

This route is not listed in the Idaho Underground guide but the book does show undesignated anchors just to the left of the Lightening Crack anchors and to the right of the Steep Disorder anchors. The apparent line follows the off-width crack which veers to the left of the same roof where lightning crack veers to the right of the roof. The anchors are very accessible from the top of the cliff to set up as a toprope. Some larger pieces will be needed for the OW section, a #4, a #5, a #6, & either a #7 or the lime colored Big Bro will work. After the OW section normal size pieces, .3 to .75, will finish the job. The Boise Climbs guide lists this route with no anchors, but new anchors with chains have apparently been added since the book was published.

Lower Crack is hand to fist on the right and finger size on the left of the dihedral. Exit the roof to the face on the right to aCquire the zig zag mostly finger size cracks above. The last moved to the anchor are the obvious crux.

Great line with lots of finger holds. Ends on a balancy bulge requiring thoughtful footwork right below the anchors.

Fingers to wide crack climb with lots of surface holds. Really fun lead which is on the stiff side of 5.7.

Curving off-width beneath a small roof. Emerging from the OW to the right of the roof is the crux. The Crack continues as a hand sized crack to an anchor. The route is located five or six feet to the right of Loaded Gun with it's own anchor. Watch out for loose rock on this one.

Stemming moves to a slabby mantel to the changes. Sustained and interesting climbing the whole way. Protects well with small to medium pieces.

Finger to full on hand crack. Lie-backing the crack behind the flake is the crux. With small to medium gear.gear.

Stem your way up the wide dihedral to finish on a mantle to a ledge just below the anchors.

Climb the juggy arete using the crack to the right for protection and additional holds. Take plenty of small cams and stoppers. You can finish on either the Fat Ankles anchors or the to anchors to the right.

Follow crack to small roof ( crux). Protects well.

Very good basalt climbing an a column with a crack to the right.

Really good route in a dihedral left of Lucky Pierre. Ends on the last 12 feet of Lucky Pierre which is pretty challenging for 5.7.

Fantastic route, challenging moves. One of the better 5.9's at the cliffs.

Small crack system on the left with slabby moves to metolius hangers.

Great basalt climbing. Takes a jog to the right at the small roof then up on slab and a thin crack to the anchors. Most leaders want to supplement the bolts with gear especially at the the top to reach the anchors.

Sustained climbing with thin holds. The wide crack to the right is considered off limits to achieve the 11d grade. If you use the crack or else anything to the right, the grade is 5.9. There us s bolt up top to facilitate setting a toprope.

Climb the crack to the right or stay on the arete on the left until you reach a difficult crux pulling through roof with a small finger crack. Very physical climb.

Climb a column with a small crack for gear, with 5.8 movement for most of it. The payoff is moving past a complex bulge to finally reach the anchors by using small cracks and a mantel and improvised feet. Good pro with small pieces for the whole climb.

Ends with a difficult bulge. Anchors with chains, accessible from the top. Standard rack.

Decent climb with some interesting movement. Ends with the beautiful slab moves of Nuts n a Sling to finish on the same anchors.

Off Width crack (5.8 to 5.9) for 40 feet or so, mostly #4 and #5 cam to protect. Second crack inside the off-width provides smaller protection (.5 to #2). Crux is a bulge/roof section just below the chains. This crux section runs fist to off fist with no feet below the over hang. Protect the bottom of the crux with a #6. The upper crack will take a #6 and a #4.

Spectacular climb. Thin crack. Great but somewhat difficult bulge moves to get to the chains. Fantastic climb.

You can top rope from the Heat Miser anchors or from the higher anchors to the left of heat Miser, but it is much harder to get to these anchors and probably bumps the grade. The route follows a nice hand to fist crack most of the way with good feet. Protects pretty well most of the way on lead. Crux is the finish in the overhung offwidth with imbedded stones.

Solid dihedral climb. The anchors are too far from the top to set for a TR without leading. The moves to the anchor are the crux withslabby moves over a bulge to mantel onto a small ledge to reach the anchors.

In the guidebooks and on Mountain project this route is indicated to use the Heat Miser anchors but this route now has it's own anchor. The new anchor is to the right and about ten feet higher than the anchors for Heat Miser which makes the route about 60 feet long. Mostly 5.7 climbing, but the final moves to the anchor follow a crack past a burly bulge, and are closer to 5.9.