★★★ Open Book 5.9

the date is approx. early 70s. We had climbed the Bill Forrest classic several times and seeing the features available on the rock, I was sure this would go free. After several weekends of failing to make progress I was laying on the ledge below the overhang, dejected, but studying the rock. I finally found a small pocket, surprised I had not seen it before, and doubted its utility. Big enough for only two fingers with a third finger stacked on top, it allowed the undercling move to reach the large pocket past the overhang. Then, a gymnastic move to swing the feet into the crack and lock off with a heel-toe jam, allowing for the reach for another handhold and mantle on the large pocket. Voila.