Kentucky Guide

Summary:

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Stagionalità

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.464626, -85.106353

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.142573, -87.757569

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Bouldering e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.142746, -87.757989

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Con corda dall'alto e Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.141980, -87.756804

Summary:

Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.142291, -87.757291

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.142170, -87.756831

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.142919, -87.758311

Summary:

Arrampicata trad e Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.142620, -87.757826

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.142576, -87.757615

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.143322, -87.758600

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Con corda dall'alto

Lat / Long: 37.142477, -87.757502

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.667431, -83.639723

sommario

One of the most famous climbing areas in the world featuring mostly steep Corbin sandstone. Climbs in all grades on outstanding rock with great features.

descrizione

A set of cliffs on solid sandstone. Climbs are generally steep with good holds - often the pump is the problem, not the moves themselves.

A good, searchable, database/guidebook is available at: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/

limitazioni per l'accesso

Vary from area to area: some public land, some private land, some land held by the Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC). Please refer to the individual crags for more details.

The Red River Gorge is located south east of Lexington, Kentucky in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Take highway 15 from Lexington towards Stanton and follow highway 11 to reach most of the climbing.

dove alloggiare

There are plenty of options, amongst them - Miguel's campground and pizzeria - Land of the Arches campground - Lago Linda campground - Bald head campground and many hotels and B&Bs in the area.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.825014, -83.665305

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.879502, -83.686953

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.869715, -83.618826

limitazioni per l'accesso

Most crags are located on Forest Service land. Look out for Forest Service signs showing restrictions. Mariba Fork is in the Clifty Wilderness Area.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.828567, -83.611738

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata su roccia e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.823616, -83.556536

Summary:

Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata sportiva e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.809509, -83.603299

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 37.822320, -83.683982

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.737565, -83.661000

limitazioni per l'accesso

Torrent Falls, Beer Trailer Crag, and Roadside are all on private property. Please respect the landowners so not to ruin access to these areas.

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva, Arrampicata trad e altri stili

Lat / Long: 37.727881, -83.632631

descrizione

Muir Valley is a recreational and rock climbing area owned and maintained by Friends of Muir Valley. Originally owned by Rick and Liz Weber. The Valley is approximately 400 acres in size and is home to some of Red River Gorge's best climbs. Home to routes such as Jesus Wept, Cell Block Six, Bundle of Joy and many others.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The land is owned by Friends of Muir Valley. Please fill out and submit a waiver before climbing in this area.

etica

You must read and understand the documents .Warnings to Visitors to Muir Valley. and the Kentucky Recreational Use Statute. Your presence in Muir Valley signifies that you agree that you have been adequately warned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve, LLC (MVNP) of hazards that may exist in Muir Valley and that you consider MVNP in full compliance with the provisions of this statute.
You must notify MVNP as soon as reasonably possible of any unusual dangerous condition or hazard in the Valley,of which you may become aware.
To rock climb in Muir Valley, you must first submit and have accepted the Muir Valley Release Form. You must either fill out and submit this form on line at www.muirvalley.com or do so on a temporary paper form, good for three days, available at the kiosk at the main Muir Valley parking lot.
You must be eighteen years of age or older or be accompanied by your parent, your legal guardian, or responsible adult to enter this property. Those minors climbing with a responsible adult, such as a professional rock climbing guide, must have had the Muir Valley Release Form completed and submitted on-line on their behalf by their parent or legal guardian before entering Muir Valley. Climbers under age 18, who can demonstrate a proficiency in rock climbing, will be permitted to climb in Muir Valley on a case-by-case basis and only with special permission of the MVNP.
Persons under the age of eighteen years (minors) must be supervised by their parent, legal guardian, or responsible adult and remain in the presence of that parent or guardian 100% of the time that the minor spends in Muir Valley.
These activities are permitted in Muir Valley: rock climbing, hiking, trail running, and enjoying nature.
These activities are NOT permitted in Muir Valley: sport rappelling, bungee jumping, rope jumping, taking long intentional falls (sometimes referred to as .victory whippers.), mountain biking, shooting firearms, hunting, trapping, camping, campfires, or operating motorized vehicles.
Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in Muir Valley. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in Muir Valley are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that remain close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in Muir Valley.
Do not climb above the anchors or top out on any climb in Muir Valley.
Do not toprope through the anchor chains (or rings). This means do not run your rope from the belayer up and through the anchor hardware and back down to the climber. This produces unnecessary wear on the anchor hardware and may increase risk to you or climbers who use this hardware subsequent to your use of it. Instead, attach quickdraws or carabiners and slings to the anchor system and run your toprope through them.
Unintentional falling is part of responsible rock climbing. Rock climbers are expected to be experienced and skilled in the technique of taking falls, and belayers are expected to be experienced and skilled in safely arresting the falls of the climbers they are belaying.
No rock climbing routes of any kind may be put up in MVNP without the written permission of MVNP. If you wish to put up a climbing route, FIRST contact the owners with your ideas PRIOR to starting the project and they can help you get started. We are keeping a database of route setting projects in the valley. All new routes must have a database ID and be approved buy the owners (or their representatives). This is necessary to prevent overbolting and inappropriate setting of routes. No hardware of any kind may be permanently affixed to any rock in Muir Valley without the written permission of the MVNP.
Please pack out all trash, especially non-biodegradable trash and toilet paper. Please do not throw cigarette butts on the ground. And, thank you for carrying out trash left by others!
Dogs are not allowed in Muir Valley. This includes the parking lot. Leaving your dog tied to your car or, worse yet, shut in your car puts you dog at unreasonable risk of injury or death by overheating.
Harvesting of plants or plant specimens is to be done only with the expressed specific permission of MVNP owners.
Please do not damage trees and vegetation. Stay on existing trails. The Valley has been recently lightly logged. In time, the land cut by the more severe logging trails will be restored to its natural state. New footpaths may be established only with prior approval of the Muir Valley Owners.
Absolutely no digging for and/or removal of relics will be permitted in caves, rock shelters, or anywhere else in Muir Valley.
Please respect our neighbors' property and privacy. Drive slowly on the approach road. Children are often present. Park only on Muir Valley land in areas designated for parking.
Illegal drugs and alcoholic beverages are NOT permitted anywhere in Muir Valley. Period.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.646007, -83.678670

sommario

One of the newer areas in the Red River Gorge with loads of climbing from easy up to the 5.13 range. The cliffs are listed left to right as if you would follow the "fingers" of the MFRP.

descrizione

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre tract of land in Lee County, Kentucky, that the RRGCC closed on in May of 2012 with the help of the Access Fund’s Land Conservation Campaign.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The RRGCC received grant money from the Access Fund to help make a $45,000 down payment, and has a plan in place to make five yearly mortgage payments of $40,000, after which the RRGCC will own the MFRP, securing climbing access on that land in perpetuity.

avvicinamento

The Miller Fork parking lot, completed in the summer of 2014 with help from local oil and construction companies, is just before a wide creek on Hell Creek Road. Driving directions from Miguel's is to continue south on KY 11 just past Koop's gas station on the right. Turn left on Shoemaker Ridge Rd. and follow for 3.5 miles and you will then as the road continues left you will drive straight down on a gravel road called Hell Creek Rd. Go down the hill all the way until the first intersection and turn right. Follow for another mile until you reach the parking area. You may also drive in / out in direction Beatyville if you take a right at the first turn after the parking (on your way out) and cross the creek. After a bit you cross another creek and the road climbs up to reach KY 11.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.649429, -83.716624

sommario

The Southern Region holds some of the most famous areas in the Red River Gorge with loads of steep but also some easier climbing. A must visit for everyone coming to the Red.

descrizione

Some of the best and hardest climbing in the Red River Gorge. The many sectors of the Motherlode Region are located within the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP), both owned by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition.

limitazioni per l'accesso

Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices. All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners. Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear. Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails. No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted. No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose. Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.

avvicinamento

Head south on highway 11 towards Beattyville and take a right on highway 498. After 2km and the sharp right turn, take the next dirt road right (Bald Rock Fork rd). After about 1km you will see a first parking on your left (P1). Park there or continue down the steep road to reach parking 2 (P2) and 3 (P3) for Motherlode and Chocolate Factory. Continue further on the road to reach parking 4 (P4) on your left for Sore Heel Hollow and further on to parking 5 (P5) for Bob Marley and Drive-by. You might take a right up to another parking for Sore Heel Hollow just before P4. Follow the obvious and mostly marked trails to reach the respective sectors.

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 37.656966, -83.789507

sommario

A brand new climbing area with routes from 5.5 to 5.13+ about 20 minutes away from RRG proper. Come here to beat the crowds in the busy season.

descrizione

800 acres of climbing excellence away from the crowded Red River Gorge! 180 of the estimated 250 climbing routes are already bolted.

limitazioni per l'accesso

The land is owned by the Episcopal Diocese of Lexington. So please respect their access rules.

Rules for Visitors to The Cathedral Domain (Last updated 11/16 ) Willful disregard of any of the following rules may result in your loss of any privilege to visit The Cathedral Domain.

1. The Episcopal Diocese of Lexington is the owner of The Cathedral Domain (Domain) If you need to reach the Director, Andy Sigmon, for questions, notifications or special permissions, you can do so at 606-464-8254, 859-582-8434 or by emailing him at: asigmon@diolex.org .

2. You must read and understand the documents “Warnings to Visitors to The Cathedral Domain” and the “Kentucky Recreational Use Statute”. Your signature and presence at The Cathedral Domain signifies that you agree that The Cathedral Domain has adequately warned you of hazards that may exist at The Cathedral Domain and that you consider The Cathedral Domain to be in full compliance with the provisions of this statute.

3. You must notify The Domain representatives as soon as reasonably possible of any dangerous condition or hazard on the property of which you become aware, that is not called out in the Warnings document.

4. To rock climb at The Cathedral Domain, you must first submit and have accepted The Cathedral Domain Climbing Waiver. You must either fill out and submit this form on line or do so on a temporary paper waiver, good for one day, available in the office at the main Cathedral Domain Parking Lot.

5. We encourage youth under the age of 18 to be accompanied by their parent, guardian, or other responsible adult. Prior to their climbing in The Cathedral Domain, climbers under age 18 must have on file with The Cathedral Domain, a Cathedral Domain waiver signed by their parent or legal guardian naming the climber as a covered individual.

6. These activities are permitted at The Cathedral Domain: rock climbing, hiking, and enjoying nature.

7. These activities are NOT permitted in The Cathedral Domain: inverted rappelling, bungee jumping, free solo rock climbing, rope jumping (taking long intentional falls - sometimes referred to as “victory whippers”), mountain biking, shooting firearms, hunting, trapping. Camping, campfires, and operating motorized vehicles are permitted only in designated areas of the facility.

8. Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in The Cathedral Domain. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in The Cathedral Domain are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that finish close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in The Cathedral Domain without written permission by the owners.

9. Do not climb above the anchors or top out on any climb at The Cathedral Domain. 10. Attach quickdraws or carabiners and slings to the anchor system and run your top-rope through them, instead of top-roping through the anchor hardware affixed to the rock wall. This means: do not run your rope from the belayer up and through the fixed anchor hardware and back down to the climber. This produces unnecessary wear on the anchor hardware and may increase risk to you or climbers who use this hardware subsequent to your use of it.

10. The choice to either rappel or have your belayer lower you after cleaning the top anchors on a route is yours and should be made on what you believe to be the safest method for the particular route you are on. Rappelling, when it is safe to do so, causes much less wear on the fixed gear than being lowered. The Cathedral Domain's owners encourage climbers to limit wear on fixed gear when possible. Worn anchor hardware is a safety concern in itself, and gear is expensive and time-consuming to replace. The Cathedral Domain does not mandate rappelling. There is no expectation by The Domain for any climber to rappel on steep overhangs, or routes that are assessed by the climber to be overly challenging to clean on rappel.

Unintentional falling is part of responsible rock climbing. Rock climbers are expected to be experienced and skilled in the technique of taking falls, and belayers are expected to be experienced and skilled in safely arresting the falls of the climbers they are belaying.
No rock climbing routes of any kind may be put up in The Cathedral Domain without the written permission of The Cathedral Domain. Nor, may hardware of any kind be permanently affixed to any rock in The Cathedral Domain without the written permission of facility Director.
Practice Leave No Trace ethics, and pack out all your trash, especially non-biodegradable trash and toilet paper. Please do not throw cigarette butts on the ground. And, thank you for carrying out trash left by others!
Dogs are permitted at The Cathedral Domain but must be on a leash at all times. No doge can left in your car at the parking lot!!
Hammocks are not permitted to be hung between trees anywhere at The Cathedral Domain.
Harvesting of plants or plant specimens is to be done only with the expressed specific permission of The Cathedral Domain owners,
Please do not damage trees and vegetation. Stay on existing trails. New footpaths may be established only with prior approval of The Cathedral Domain Director.
Absolutely no digging for relics will be permitted in caves or anywhere else at The Cathedral Domain.
Please respect our neighbors' property and privacy. Drive slowly on the approach road. Children are often present. Park only on The Cathedral Domain land in areas designated for parking.
Illegal drugs and alcoholic beverages are NOT permitted anywhere at The Cathedral Domain!

21. The Cathedral Domain is open at no admission charge to the public. The Cathedral Domain has issued warnings of dangers—known and unknown—that exist there to visitors. These appear above on the web site for the facility, at the main parking lot, and at numerous locations throughout the facility.

The Cathedral Domain requires that all climbers must use a clip stick to the first anchor before beginning any climbing route.

Warnings for Visitors to The Cathedral Domain Last amended:(11/16) It is important that you carefully read and understand the list of warnings of the hazards and potential dangers, both identified and unknown that may exist at The Cathedral Domain. Your presence at The Cathedral Domain signifies that you have read and fully understand these warnings and the Kentucky Revised Statutes chapter 411. Please notify The Cathedral Domain as soon as reasonably possible of any unusual dangerous condition or hazard that you see or encounter on the property. This includes, but is not limited to, loose, missing, or worn hardware on the rock climbing routes, loose rocks, and any and all activities by other persons that could be considered to be reckless and an endangerment to the wellbeing of other people at The Cathedral Domain . If you are not willing to accept full responsibility for your presence at The Cathedral Domain, then do not enter the property.

WARNING: It is virtually impossible for us to be aware of every hazard and dangerous condition that may exist in the 800 acres and 7+ miles of cliff line that constitute The Cathedral Domain. It is, therefore, necessary that you acknowledge a general warning that hidden and unknown dangers may exist in The Cathedral Domain that cannot always be specifically identified and warned or guarded against.
WARNING: Rock climbing can be a dangerous sport, participation in which can cause permanent paralysis or other serious injury and death to you or to those around you. You should never climb without extensive training by experienced climbers. You should never climb without proper high-quality rock climbing gear. And, you should never climb if you are not willing to accept full responsibility for the consequences of your participation in this dangerous sport.
WARNING: The rock at The Cathedral Domain contains Corbin Sandstone. This is a very soft, friable sedimentary rock that is laced with pockets, fissures and soft chossy sections. Even the best of hardware permanently affixed to or temporarily placed into this rock can fail unexpectedly and catastrophically due to the poor structural integrity of this rock, possibly causing your injury or death.
WARNING: The rock at The Cathedral Domain contains sections that are either loose or that can be easily loosened. These sections can spontaneously fall off a cliff, or they may be inadvertently or purposely pulled off by a climber. In any case, rock fall poses a threat to visitors to The Cathedral Domain and therefore poses a danger to the climber and/or persons below the climber. All persons participating in rock climbing and/or those present in the vicinity of rock cliffs are strongly advised to wear protective headgear designed specifically for a rock climbing environment.
WARNING: Never climb inside any of the caves at The Cathedral Domain. The ceilings are often flaky and prone to breaking down and falling.
WARNING: Hanger brackets have been bolted to, or glued into, the walls of many of the climbing routes at The Cathedral Domain. Additionally, other hardware, such as slings, quickdraws, chains, rings, cable leaders, and permadraws may be attached to hanger brackets. As is traditional with rock climbing route development, this hardware was installed by many different persons. The specific hardware and installation methods are neither approved by nor monitored by us. Nor, is this hardware routinely inspected. NO warranties of safeness of this hardware have been given by the persons who installed it or the owners at The Cathedral Domain. Hanger brackets have been known to pull loose from the rock. And, rock in which hanger brackets have been affixed has been known to fail. If you climb at The Cathedral Domain and rely on any piece of hardware affixed to any rock surface for your personal safety and/or the safety of others with you, you do so at your own risk and with the full knowledge that this hardware may fail catastrophically and without warning. . WARNING: Be very careful hiking along the tops of cliffs. Most of the trails along the cliffs range from 50 to over 145 feet high.
WARNING: As a nature preserve, The Cathedral Domain has wildlife, including, but not limited to: poisonous insects, such as the northern millipede and Black widow spiders; venomous snakes, such as copperheads and rattlesnakes; and poisonous plants, such as poison ivy and pokeweed. If you wish to download a printable PDF file copy of these WARNINGS click here. If you have any suggestions or questions or wish to report any problems, please feel free to contact Andy Sigmon by email: asigmon@diolex.org or phone: 606-464-8254.

avvicinamento

From Lexington take I-64 East to the Mountain Parkway. Follow Mountain parkway until you reach the Slade, KY exit (same as for going to RRG proper). Then take KY-11 south until you reach 498. (As if going to PMRP climbing area). Follow 498 until it dead ends into 52. Follow 52 for 5.5 miles and turn right onto 1746. Here you will see signs for Cathedral Rock. Follow signs.

dove alloggiare

They offer camping at their location but most people just stay at Land of the Arches or Miguel's.

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Summary:

Tutti Deep Water Soloing

Lat / Long: 38.179344, -83.047229

sommario

As far as deep water soloing in Kentucky goes, this is the best.

descrizione

This lake isn't completely surrounded by sheer cliffs but where the cliffs are they provide pretty good climbing on sandstone rock similar to that of Red River Gorge. Wall heights range from 10-60 ft. The lake is a 1500+ acre lake. So there is a lot of room to climb.