Vie in Looking Glass

1. This is a great 5.9 warmup or option for gumbier climbers that you drag over to the North Face. It features a nice tips splitter on a slab. Many folks climb only the first pitch and belay off 2 fixed hexes in the crack above the dying tree.

2. (5.11b/c, ) It looks fantastic from the ground, and is one of the few true splitters at the Glass...at least that's how it looks. Closer inspection reveals a constricting crack with a lip on it that is awkward and painful to jam with moss and mud in the back of it. Yeehaw! If doing the 2nd pitch, traverse right after the tree (a little spicey) then up the first bulge to belay at a sloping stance with good gear. The crux is liebacking or jamming over a bulge about 20' above the belay. Continue to rap from two bolts about 70' above the belay. The entire route is very well protected. Take two ropes to rap.

Location: On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is located on the face of the pillar between Cornflake Crack and the Womb. Start about 10 feet left of a large tree that has grown into the wall.

Protection

P1: Small nuts or TCU's, then standard rack P2: Extra .5 and .75 camalots, hand sized pieces for the belay

Classic and varied 5.9 ish climbing with a very short 5.11b crux.

1. Climb crack and slab beside vegetated crack, angling right until an obvious gear belay (70 ft, 5.7)

2. Climb crack trending right with great protection. Undercling crux leads to hand crack and bolted belay. (80ft, 5.9+)

3. The money pitch, offwidth dihedral that can be protected by an overhead #4/#3 (11b). Above this move is a perfect finger crack with great exposure that is around 5.9 climbing. Gear belay. (100ft, 5.11b)

4. Slab on up. (100ft, 5.7).

1. The route takes the beautiful arching crack just around the corner from Cornflake crack on the North Face. The arching crack ranges from 5.9 fingers at the bottom to an offwidth through the top of the arch over to the anchors. The crux is a strenous move or two through the offwidth ending in a lovely thin traverse to the anchors.

2. Aid ?

3. Aid ?

4. Aid ?

Location: North Face of Looking Glass. Obvious arching crack to the right of Cornflake

Protection: Wide range of cams and passive gear. Save a #4 or #5 camalot for the crux. Fixed anchors at the top

Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass? First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic. Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen.

Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.

1. (80', 5.11a) Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance.

2. (100', 5.11a) Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here.

3. (60', 5.10b) Greenish flakes contiue to the top.

Location: Left end of the steep part of the North Face. Look for a right-facing corner with a short undercling near the bottom. If this is wet, you may want to keep walking.

Protection:Stoppers, 2 each TCUs, and a double set of cams to 3", with a 3.5" as well. 2 ropes. Fixed anchors.

DESCENT: 2 ropes from the top of P2 get you to the ground; if climbing P3, a single-rope rap from a tree will get you back to the ledge.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

This is a great granite slab route with multiple, interesting cruxes. The route links discontinuous features, so requires some good route finding skills if there is no chalk.

1. Begin with liebacking up some flakes to the first bolt and the first crux; pulling over a short roof (harder for short folks...you can place a TCU up high in the corner to the left before you pull the roof).

2. Next do some powerful liebacks up to the next bolt (crux 2), place a tcu or nut then use jugs to mantel up onto a large flake below the slab. Chalk up for about 20 minutes while you psyche up, then crank some seriously thin crimpers to the left, gunning for a series of rails that lead to the next bolt (crux 3). You'll have to stand on your feet. Once you reach the 2nd bolt on the slab, you're home free. A couple good rests can be had off to the right in some loose blocks. A single 60m rope will get you down. The start is mossy and needs a wire brush badly. The upper half of the route is much cleaner.

Located: On the North Face of Looking Glass. After arriving at the wall, walk to the right about 100 feet until the forest joins up with the wall again. There is a group of four single-pitch routes in this area. Bombelay is the 3rd route from the left and starts about 5' left of the South Carolina-shaped flake that is about as big as a car's hood. Starting just to the right of the flake is "Witney's Excellent Route".

The 1st pitch is steep and fun with ample pro, and most climbers stop there. This pitch climbs like a sport route with gear and stays dry in the rain.

P1, either start on a small slab ramp or uphill on a ledge system that leads to the flake midway up the climb. From the direct start, pull some thin moves to gain large ledge. Pull a small roof to gain the flake ramp. Follow the flake ramp to a blocky section with a bolt. Watch for loose rock here. Clip the bolt and move to the short finger crack. From the finger crack move back to the steep flake and crank to the anchor. 5.10c

P2, Climb up and left through a blank face clipping two bolts to the base of a thin seam. Follow the seam to an anchor. A3

P3, Climb up to a dirty water groove to the bolted anchor. A2+

P4, Finish by climbing straight up on Diamonds in the Muff or move left to Wranglin' Horses and Hogs.

P2-P4 descriptions from NC Selected Climbs Location From where the North Face trail meets the wall, turn left and head up hill for about 20'. Look for a small slabby apron at the base. Look up for the obvious up and right leaning flake on a steep face. Rappel the route with one 60m for P1 and two ropes for all other pitches.

This stout pitch might make you pucker up. Climb past scant but good pro to gain the right facing crescent feature. Balance up this using as much friction as possible to a bolt. Crank a hard move at the bolt to another bolt to gain a patina 5.11 face. Head up this passing petzl self drives to a two bolt anchor.

Location Up hill past the Guillotine. Near "Off the Wall"

Description Or should it be Extra-Extra Crimpy Chicken? A sustained adventure in technical face climbing nirvana.

Climb past two bolts to reach a gear pod. Now, summon the crimp gods and begin the adventure. Crimp and pimp, up the delicious face past a number of bolts to a great jug. Plug in more small gear and fire out the last few hard moves to reach a welcome and timely double bolt anchor.

Location Starts left of Bombelay about 25 ft.

Protection Bolts, doubles in tcu's to blue.

Description This route has quite varied climbing on it and is worth doing if you're in the area. Don't let the Guillotine Flake freak you out as you creep your way up to it.

Climb a very short corner to a bolt out right (I added this bolt a year or so later). Make slab moves up and right to another bolt in the funky corner features. Climb straight up to 3rd bolt and a thin face above that is protected by a med cam. Clip 4th bolt and make long moves to a good rail and mantel. Clip last bolt and move up face to the giant guillotine flake. Good gear can be placed behind the flake on the right side (Tim S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer...). Move out right and through roof (#4 camelot) to the corner above that is protected by 2 KB pins. Lower from 2 bolt anchor at top of corner.

Location Just to the right of The "Glass Eye". Crosses over the diagonaling first pitch of "Chieftains Of Creep" at the Guillotine Flake.

Protection light NC rack including #4 camelot

Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!

Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here. Location North Face of Looking Glass Rock; starts left of Waste Not Want Not. Protection Single set of cams, extra .5- #1. Nuts. Twin ropes useful. Beaks and Bugaboos for the nailing. A two bolt anchor is fixed at all belays.

The crux is low but protected by a bolt ( stick clip recommended). Press and stem through a dihedral up to a gastone, then make a committing move to a great ledge. Continue up Invisible Airwaves Proper. This is an amazing line that really requires some grit. Location This route is 20 ft left of Waste Not Want Not and 10 ft right of the Invisible Airwaves . Start in a clean dihedral just right of Invisible Airwaves. Rap same as Invisible Airwaves Protection Protected by a single bolt. Stick Clip recommended.

The free version to the first pitch of Howling Kahn. Wonderful and engaging movement culminating in a fantastic gear protected crux. An incredible find, particularly amazing it lay dormant despite being the plumb line one rappels from the anchors of Whitney's! Location The next series of climbable features and corners to the right of Whitney's Excellent Route. Start with some head's up slab to gain your first piece of gear then aim for the bolts protecting the initial sequence of difficult moves. After the 4th bolt follow the hollow flake system up into the right arching corner which leads to a two bolt anchor. Protection 4 bolts plus gear (SR). Anchors.

Start below 25' corner. Make some technical moves to get to the corner. Climb the corner to a small roof. Move out left and over the roof to gain the bolted slab. Climb thin edges to the Seal's anchors. Very exciting route and can be TR'ed after having led the Seal. Location Directly below the Seal's P1 bolted anchor in a large right facing corner. Protection Single rack with small nuts and 2 bolts. Protection is difficult to place in the corner.

Start in a right facing corner. Power lay back up to a bolt on the slab. Climb hard, technical slab out left to a second right facing corner. Finish at two bolt anchor. Location Far right side of Peregrine Roof. Right of the Code. Protection Standard rack to #3, a 4 is helpful but not mandatory.

This is a long and very involved climb. There are many thought provoking moves and a few butt-clenchers for good measure. If you like friction climbing and hard eye-brows this is for you. This is also one of the first climbs to dry on the left side of the North Face.

Start in a flared hand crack in a left facing shallow dihedral. Move up this moderate crack to its top and traverse left to a very short right facing dihedral. Step up and move right for about 25' on a good ledge to the base of a series of bulges (double ropes are great here). Pull through about three bulges using big eyebrows and lots of sloped knobs. At the final ledge before the bolt, move back left almost directly below the first bolt. Get good gear here and make a committing move to a good stance to clip the first bolt. The next section is sustained technical friction. Follow the line of bolts and plug a few pieces in between until you reach the fourth bolt. From the fourth bolt move up and left to a faint gray streak with great edges. Plug a few more pieces and bust into the Sperm's crack right before the anchors on the Sperm's second pitch. Shake those legs out whenever you can! Location Start 20' right of the Sperm at the obvious fist crack in a flared dihedral. Rappel with two 60m ropes to the ground or swing right to Deep Throats first pitch anchors with a single 60m rope and make two rappels. Protection Single rack to #3 Camalot with doubles from purple TCU to red or black metolius. Tri-cams and nuts can also be used in several spots. Many long runners and draws. Double ropes are mandatory.

An obscure classic left of Extra Crimpy Chicken. Climb easy terrain to a bolt and then get charged up for action. Pass a small right facing corner (rps for pro) to weird rock at a stance. Pop in a #3 Camalot and embark on small edges up a bolted face to a unique move at the 4th bolt. Climb small dihedrals to a two bolt anchor. Location 40 feet right of the Glass Menagerie next to Extra Crimpy Chicken. Protection bolts and gear to #3 camalot. RP's for the start

Don't know if this was ever climbed in the past but all evidence indicates that it was not... who knows for sure though? It was cleaned up and climbed recently. It is a fun moderate pitch that is worth climbing and is a great way to extend the crux pitch of "Safari" to the top of the buttress (about 175' long).

Climb the first 2 pitches of either "Safari Jive" or "Cornflake Crack" to the large ledge. If climbing Safari Jive, it is a natural continuation of pitch 2. Just don't stop and belay at the usual anchor, continue to top.

Instead of climbing the 3rd pitch of Cornflake, climb the arete and face just to the left. Start on the flake above the Safari Jive rap anchor and sling the tree for pro. Step left to lieback the arete, then continue up the cool arete and face. Keep your eyes peeled for gear in the 'brows that will require some longs slings to prevent rope drag. Belay at the large dead hemlock tree/2 bolt rap station. Location The arete and face above the Safari Jive P-2 rap anchor. Protection Standard LG rack up to #2 camelot. For pro at the start, sling the tree.

P1: 5.11c Starting in a often dirty right facing dihedral climb the finger crack through a notch and up to a jug. Cut left into an eyebrow and mantle up onto the ledge. Move left to a bomber eyebrow. Climb interesting slab placing small gear before clipping a bolt and entering the crux. Continue climbing through two bulges split by a crack of varying size (fingers - thin hands) and belay at a natural gear anchor.

P2: Climb P2 of Safari jive Location Start on a thorn covered ledge just left of Nuclear Erection, below a shallow right facing dihedral.

Descent: Rappel off P2 Anchors (2 60's) Protection Regular NC rack

This great alternative to the original pitch adds mutiple 5.11 sequences and when combined with the upper pitch makes for a 170 ft pumpfest. Start left of the tree that is leaning against the wall. Move generally up and right over small and medium gear to a bolt. Fire past the bolt and move into the bulge with a crack going through it. The original direct(FA Kris Kline)came in from the right and pulled this same bulge. Crank this crack/bulge to join back into the original line. Belay here or continue to the top for the enduro finish. Location Starts right of the original Safari start and left of the leaning tree. Protection Many long runners, nuts, small tcus to orange or c3s, grey and red aliens, tricams, double 1/4 to 1 inch cams, 2 or 3 inch cam for the very start

This is the obvious left-to-right-angling crack on the slabby left end of the North Face. A cross between classic Looking Glass eyebrow-wandering and the more strenuous crack climbs to the right.

Begin by climbing up to, and then through, the fallopian chimney that marks the start. Thinking that this squeezer is 5.9 will only get you in trouble elsewhere. 5.8, 80'.

P2: 80 feet of right-leaning crack ends at a pair of bolts. This and the first pitch are easily combined; 5.9.

P3: Inobvious moves in the vicinity of a short vertical crack (5.9+) lead to easier ground up and left. Belay from bolts. 100'

P4: Standard 'Fields of Lichen Growing Wild'; eyebrow version. 5.7, 100'.

Protection The usual stuff will suffice. Bring walkoff shoes.

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side. Location This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves. Protection Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.

This is a fantastic face route climbing a clean white face on perfect rock with athletic moves. It follows the natural features, so tends to wander a bit. There is a tough spot in the first two bolts then a good shake where you can place a small tcu before a deceiving move left. Get a real good shake at a circlehead (can place a yellow TCU here as well), then bust straight right campusing on half-pad crimps. The crux may be clipping the last bolt...maybe you should skip it?? Location On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is the next route left of the Menagerie, or the second route on the left after you come up the trail. Look for a line of bolts. Protection Mostly bolts, but you'll need a handful of TCU's to fill in the blanks. There are a number of spots before the first bolt where decking is a real possibility, and a ledge fall is possible between the 1st and 2nd bolts.

Climb the varied right facing corner to a series of tiered overlaps. A technical crux leads to pumpy climbing finishing at a two bolt anchor. Location Next to Bombbelay at the SC shaped flake. Lower from anchors but WATCH YOUR ENDS! This route takes a full 60 to get up and down. Protection Bolts and gear to #2 camalot. Two yellow TCU sized pieces are helpful near the finish.

This route is a lot of eyebrow climbing fun. One of the classics of looking glass. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

1. (90', 5.5) Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge.

2. (100', 5.8) Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance.

3. (100', 5.8) From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on.

4. (100', 5.7) Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

Location: From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection: Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.

1. (75', 5.8) Climb eyebrows for about 75 feet to a nice ledge (you will be almost even with the Pitch 1 anchors on Sundial which will be to your right); gear anchor.

2. (crux) Climb past the rap bolts (out right) and up over the dike. You will want to search for another gear belay once you are up and right of the anchors on the start of pitch 3 of The Nose.

3. Climb up to the right edge of the parking lot and either use the rap anchors or build a belay out right.

4. Work your way up and slightly left to the anchors at the top of The Nose. Three double rope rappels get you to the ground.

Location

Peregrine is a slightly harder direct line in between The Nose and Sundial Crack. The route starts about 50ish feet right of The Nose. Look for the worn patches of granite that will indicate the start.

Protection Standard NC rack with plenty of small stuff. Aliens work great, tri-cams are good. Long runners, two ropes.

Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.

Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.

1. (80', 5.5) Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.

2. (100', 5.8) At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options.

3. (120', 5.7) If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch.

4. (150', 5.6) Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.

Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the "parking lot"-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.

Protection (stolen from the description of The Nose): "Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes."

The first pitch takes larger gear than you'd think. I used a yellow #2 Camalot. The party before us used a blue #3.

I was glad to have multiples of .3-.75 camalot C4's, C3's, & several TCU's. The gear in the goofy belay picture is pretty typical of what's needed through the whole climb (.5 C4, .4 C4, yellow TCU, 000 C3, 0C3).

This was one of my favorite routes, for the grade, at the Glass. It was originally called Five Easy Pieces by the first ascent party that did it as an aid climb. Sometime afterwards we started calling the route Hyperbola and the name stuck.

My recollection of this route is it has a very hairy first pitch that involves some thin, hairball, 5.9 Carolina slab climbing where a fall would not be good for the leader, to reach the base of the arch. To start the route you climb up on some large flakes that are below & to the left of the arch. The tricky slab climbing starts off of the flakes and heads up & right to the base of the arch crack system. Since the first ascent, a harder, but better-protected direct start has been added. Getting thru the hairy slab climbing is the psycological crux of this route. A rest can be had afterwards at the base the crack system. Here the leader can rest & recoup for the pumpy technical crux under cling & pull-over move to reach the beautiful arching dihedral finger crack. Be sure your pro is set good before heading up here.

On one memorable ascent, a good friend of mine, was launching out on this move when his pro pulled out while in the middle of the crux pull over. Cams were not on the market at that time and he had only placed this one hex to protect the undercling. This left nothing but the bolt on the slab as his last protection and he was caught looking at a potential 50-plus-foot ground fall. He looked down at me, trimbeling, wild eyed, like a deer caught in the headlights!! I shouted out my encouragement and sent up all the positive energy I could thru the rope that ran between us. Shaking, scraping, and breathing like a locomotive he managed to barely pull over the crux move!! "Are you alright Peter!!??" I called up. After a quite a few minutes, where I think he was digesting seeing his whole life flash before his eyes, he replied "Yea!" He finally regained his composure and, like the true hard man he was, finished up the rest of arch. (Bob Rotert, 22 Dec 06, www.themountainproject.com)

Most folks will rap from the top of the arch, but there are 2-3 more pitches to finish the route to the top. Second pitch being around 5.9 with one or two bolts for pro and the crux moves would be getting off the top of the arch. The third & fourth pitches follow an indistinct line and are probably 5.7-5.8.

Location About 300 feet to the right of Sundial on top of some large flakes below the very obvious beautiful Yosemite-looking arching crack.

Protection Light Looking Glass trad rack.

The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a good shake and work up the side pulls. Bust out right to a good gaston (you can get a 000 C3 under the flake but I'm not sure it would hold, more of a mental piece) Pull over the bulge on bad slopers and worse feet then make your way back to the left to a really fun finger crack and meet up with the original route. Location 110 yards right of Sundial Crack. Protection 2 bolts, standard Looking Glass rack.

Easy runout to the base of an obvious crack. The crux is right off the slab and is protected by a bolt. The difficulties begin with a sharp off-hands crack which gives way to strenuous hands and fists to the top. Addendum per guide book: Skirt right of the bolt and back to the crack on p1 to make it 10a P2: Climb a wide crack along an arch to a bolted anchors, 5.8 70 ft P3: Pull over a 5.9 bulge and belay after 100ft P4: scramble up easier ground and descend as for the nose Location Hike in as for the Nose and head downhill and north from the the base of the Nose. Walk past a large slab and find the obvious crack. Protection A single bolt at the crux. Wide range of passive gear. Multiples in the 2-3 camalot range. Rap the nose route.

On one of my first trips to Looking Glass sans guide book and inexperienced with runout slab climbing, I ran into a local who recommended this new route as a good 5.9. It was the perfect sandbag and quite memorable. Begin about 50 yards to the right of Sundial Crack. The first 50-60 feet is a sea of unprotectable eyebrows (~5.8) ending on a ledge. I would recommend belaying here but didn't the first time I climbed it resulting in some serious rope drag. Pull over an easy, well protected bulge above the ledge. Veer to the right and follow the path of least resistance to a crack which takes good gear. From the crack, head back slightly left and up towards the anchors. As I recall the last 20 feet is pretty hairy unprotected climbing that left me feeling nauseous. I went for it and to my relief found an unusual "thank god" hold just below the anchors that wasn't visible from below. If you are not a well seasoned Looking Glass slabmaster, I would not recommend this as a first 5.9...or even a second or third for that matter! Addendum: Per the guide book the route continues on for another 3 pitches: P2: 5.9+, 150 ft with a bolted anchor P3: 5.7, 150 ft also bolted anchor P4: 5.5, 165 ft; descend as for the nose Location The route begins about 50 yards to the right of Sundial. The start was rather inobvious and the only real landmarks that I recall are the anchors at the top of the route. Protection Not much. Bolted Anchors on pitches 1-3. Rap the nose route. Bring an extra pair of shorts.

** Addendum: It seems the best start is right next to Sundial Crack. Then you should shoot up and right for the scoop. This avoids the runout nature of the direct start and gives you some pro.

Southern Crescent is for the eyebrow aficionado. Don't hop on this one until you've mastered Hyperbola, Chaos Out of Control, and any other "well protected" 5.10 at the Glass that you can think of. Not as consequential as the "Bomb Flake" but more serious than your average Glass route. Southern Crescent deserves traffic and has some fun and challenging climbing.

Location This route is located left of Hyperbola and right of Sundial Crack. Locate the obvious steep bulge with a few bolts. Start up the mostly unprotected face (5.8+) to a bolt. Traverse left and pull the steep and off balance moves over the bulge. Belay.

The 2nd pitch has a significant runout off the belay (5.9+). Clip a couple bolts and pull the no hands stand up move. Protection Your typical Glass route. For sure small Tri-cams.

Maybe traverse to the Nose rap route.

A great route that can be done in 2 long pitches.

1. (200ft, 5.7) Climb the 1st pitch crack to its end using jams, stems and lay-a-ways, step right and belay on a nice ledge. Natural belay.

2. (130 ft. 5.7) 2nd pitch has 2 options. 1st- Move right and finish on the Unfinished Concerto crack. 2nd- (better option) From the belay move up and left aiming for a notch. Pull the notch and face climb aiming for a couple of slung hemlock trees at 130ft.

Descent: Rap straight down Chaos out of Control. Double rope rap.

Location:Obvious wide crack left of Unfinished Concerto.

Protection: Nuts, double cams to 3 inch(optional 4-6 inch piece), many runners

A nice warmup for the other great South Face climbs, but not a casual route for the grade. Put thoughts like "this doesn't feel like 5.6" out of your mind and enjoy the friction climbing.

1. Starting below right-slanting crack, follow it up and right; after the crack peters out, continue straight up on mainly friction moves to the tree ledge above. If you don't feel like rapping at this point, you can move to the left end of the ledge to the start of Afterbirth (which will take you to the Gemini rap station).

Location: Starts about 25' left of Left Up at an obvious slanting crack. Rap from rap rings at the ledge.

Protection: Small to medium gear; tricams are handy.

1. (100ft, 5.9) Climb the obvious hand crack up a ramp that steepens into an overhang. Pull the overhang with good gear and follow the slab to a bolted belay.

2. (170ft, 5.8) Follow the crack system until you run out of rope! Gear belay .

3. (100ft, 5.5) Slab off to the right.

A challenging climb with a thin crack in a stemming corner. Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go as long as you have a 60-meter rope.

1. (120', 5.8) Starting on low-angle slab, scramble up to a crack and continue through a right-facing corner with a fingertip-sized crack. Belay at a rounded ledge with good gear in the widening crack.

2. (170', 5.5) Continue up the crack on easier ground, moving up and right until the corner ends and find a good spot to belay (or continue up and right to the anchors).

3. (60', 5.5) Climb up and right on good friction using cracks and eyebrows for pro until you get to the new upper rap anchors for Gemini Crack.

Location:Starts just left of Second Coming. Rap from upper Gemini ring anchors to the Sentry Box Ledge, then a second rap to the ground.

Protection: Small to medium nuts and cams. No fixed gear.

1. (90', 5.7) Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time.

2. (180', 5.7) Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation.

Location: This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rats Ass).

Protection: Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.

1. Climb the face past horizontals to a big ledge.

Location: Close to where the approach trail meets the right side of the South Face, beneath the middle of Stage Ledge.

To get down, either rappel off the dead, fallen tree on Stage Ledge or do the "North Carolina 3rd class" down-climb off the climber's right side of the ledge.

Protection: light rack, hands to fingers, no anchors

Thin moves down low lead past the crux and to a thin corner. Climb this corner aiming for the larger corner system. Follow up and to the right to the Gemini Rappel anchors. A double rope rappel puts you back on Sentry Box Ledge.

Location: First Return is the left most route of the three routes (Gemini Crack and Zodiac) located on Sentry Box Ledge.

Protection: Standard NC rack with some small gear (aliens, nuts), long runners, double ropes. Rap anchors at top.

The route goes directly up from the Sentry Box Ledge Rappel rings. Start on small crimpers to a flake that provides some bad protection. Move past the flake on some small crips and smears to a delicate move into an eyebrow under cling. Once you establish your feet paddle up to belay at the bulge on ring anchors. From the bulge stand carefully on the flake and move up through eyebrows that are a bit run out. Join First Return and head to the rappel station.

(edit March 27, 2016) The route now has 2 bolts and a set of anchors for a much more appealing and safe adventure.

Rappel with one 70m rope. First Ascent: Jeff Lorch, Karsten Delap, December 2015

One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.

1. (100', 5.8) Climb crack up to a stance where you can set a natural gear belay.

2. (100', 5.8) Climb the steepening crack system and traverse right into some train track type cracks. Face climb up and into a slab. Bolted belay.

Location: Starts on the Sentry Box Ledge just left of Zodiac. An alleged 3rd class scramble (more of a 5.easy free solo) will get you to the ledge. Double-rope rap from new ring bolts just below the old belay tree gets you back to the Sentry Ledge, then a single-rope rap to the ground.

Protection:Medium gear; cams, tricams and nuts.

This lesser climbed route at the South Face deserves mention, not only because the FA party included the late, great Doc Bayne, But it also packs quite a punch in the first 40 ft. or so with a long, scary runout on 5.8+.

Location: Climb up to Sentry Box Ledge, then start a few feet to the right of Gemini Crack on a fairly steep slab. Climb straight up the slab to a point where where you can finally get something in, then wander to the top on somewhat easier ground.

Protection: I gave this route an R because of the first 40ft., but the protection gets a little better after that first pro placement. Take some smaller stuff.

Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.

1. (50',5.7+ / 5.8) Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation.

2. Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.

3. (150', ?) Meander left to the Gemini raps.

Location: Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.

Protection: No fixed gear. Standard rack.

Readily climbed as one long pitch:

1. Climb up a slab with eyebrows that eases in difficulty the higher you get. Mantle onto a block and pull some face moves to access the P1 ledge (can stop here).

2. From there climb through a bulge via a short hand crack (crux)to another ledge. Move to climbers right and high step up over the bulge. Trend up and left to a good ledge with tat slung around a hollow flake.

Location: From the standard South Face approach, cut to climbers right following a trail that drops down and back up along the rock. Pass a large chimney and belay at the base of the slab.

2 ropes to get down. As of October 8th 2011 there is some tat around a hollow flake with two 'biners. Bring some webbing and a knife to switch out for fresh tat.

Protection: standard NC rack, #2 and #3 for belay at top of P2

Popular beginner climb. Many parties do only the first pitch.

1. (90', 5.5) Head up the ramp/corner, and then continue up the face, trending left a bit, to bolt anchors.

2. (100', 5.5) Head up and slightly right toward a big tree at the top.

Descent: Use two ropes to rappel to the P1 anchors from slings around the tree. One 60m rope will get you from the P1 anchors to the ground.

Location: From where the approach trail meets the South Face beneath the Stage Ledge, head about 100 feet to the right. Look for a right-facing corner/ramp with a crack in it.

Protection: standard rack, bolts at top of P1, slings and rings on tree at top of P2

Climb the face past horizontals to a big ledge.

Location: Close to where the approach trail meets the right side of the South Face, beneath the middle of Stage Ledge.

Descent: To get down, either rappel off the dead, fallen tree on Stage Ledge or do the "North Carolina 3rd class" down-climb off the climber's right side of the ledge.

Protection: light rack, hands to fingers, no anchors

Left Up climbs a great finger and hand size crack just left of Stage Ledge. This climb serves as a great introduction to Looking Glass granite. Be careful the feet on the beginning of this climb are polished.

Location: Left up is located just left of Stage Ledge, Bloody Crack, etc. Look for the obvious finger/hand crack that climbs to a ledge

Protection: Standard NC rack (finger/hand sized), runners, single rope. Slings on the tree.

A slightly harder version of Left Up. Can be a quick fun route if things are busy at the South Face area.

Location: Located just to the right of Left Up and just left of Stage Ledge, etc.

Protection: Standard NC rack, runners, 1 rope. Slings on tree for rappel.

Possibly one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.

1. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear.

2. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.

Location: Scramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rats Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.

Protection: The gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Nuts are not really needed, but double tcu's #1 and #2 and double Camalots from .5 purple up to a number 2 gold are what you need. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes. Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.

This could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.

The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but it can be done in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.

Location: Left side of the South Side. This route is located up on the ledge with Dinkus Dog and Unfinished Concerto. Locate the obvious twin water grooves located to the right of Dinkus Dog and Parachute Woman.

Protection: You might need a large hand size (#2 or #3) piece down low. Lots of TCU's, a few bolts, tri cams are always helpful at the Glass.

This is probably the worst of the three routes of Dinkus Dog and Chaos Out of Control. Lots of hollow gear placement on the first pitch (including the belay) and there is only one bolt on the first pitch instead of two as the guide book suggests Location: In between Dinkus Dog and Chaos Out Of Control. Rap Chaos with 2 60s to descend.

Protection: Standard Looking Glass rack. One bolt on P.1

Name comes from a Bat encounter on the First Ascent.

1. Clip bolt for crux. Thin crisp edges lead to lower angle terrain. Trend up and right to 2 bolt anchor. 80ft. 5.10+

2. Climb straight up into minor right facing corner. Great climbing and great gear lead to a 2 bolt anchor. 90ft. 5.9. Rap with one rope.

Location:On the wall between "Rat's Ass" and "Unfinished". More specifically between the routes "Integration By Parts" and "Child Prodigy"

Protection: Gear to #1 camalot. extra TCU's

This line blasts through the steep bulge to the right of Second Coming. It is a sustained and heady climb that links up to the second pitch of Second Coming. A spicy alternative if you have done most of the stuff at the S. Face.

1. Start the same as Second Coming. Instead of moving left to Second Coming's crack, stay on the right most crack until you reach the base of the steep section directly below a white splotch. Traverse right at the base of the steepness, plug the horizontal for pro. This is the last pro before reaching the horizontal at the end of bulge and is the R section, DON'T BLOW IT. Falling before getting the difficult pro at the roof will result in a nasty slab splash. Climb up directly below a left facing crescent shaped jug. Plug the gear at the end of the bulge using the difficult hands and make the long move over the bulge to gain the face above. Climb short broken cracks until you can traverse left on top of the flakes that end P1 of Second Coming. Belay on gear.

2. Finish P2 of Second Coming.

Location: Rap from belay station to the left of Gemini Tree with 2 60m ropes.

Protection: Standard multi-pitch rack. Doubles of .75 Camalot and smaller, tri-cams.

1. (5.5/5.6) Easy climbing to get up to the double bolt anchor from the ledge.

2. Aim for the crack, cams can go into some shallow placements. Fire through the early moves and don't get too pumped - - this is probably the crux of the climb and I'd say it does feel 5.10a - - the crack is super fun and backs off in hardness as you go up - about 50' up trend left onto the face and then up another 40' or so of easier slabby face climbing to get to the belay spot - save some medium wired stoppers and a couple of cams for the gear belay.

3. You can go right or left but most go (climber's) left. You can protect right below "the move" - this move probably is 5.9 but it does feel hard. Be sure to protect your second so if they fall they don't cheese grater the rope across the rock - this is important. Trend up and right to a great belay spot.

4. Keep going out to your right to gain the obvious water groove about 40' right of the belay - it's a one step move into the groove (5.7?) and then things get easy. Go up the groove for about 40' and then go right to another good belay spot - - all the hard climbing is now over.

5. This isn't really a "pitch" but it avoids Southender Gully which is a PITA. - traverse right about a full rope length - don't go up too much - aim for what looks like a totally loose bolder sitting on a ledge (it might be - don't mess with it) go under it to a giant ledge and find two shiny stainless rap anchors (these are roughly on top of Irish Jig and Ruby Tuesday) - - one rappel (2 ropes) gets you on the ground with plenty to spare. If you can't find the aformentioned bolts you can go up and right and eventually hit trees - this is Southender Gully - - a bungle in the jungle for sure but you'll make it down.

This section of the Sun Wall is quite intimidating with some intense hand jamming. Aerospace Cadet is one of the easier routes up through the bulges.

Weird climbing on the second pitch. Big bulgy slopers moves and mantles. Good pro when you need it.

Location: Starts about 50 left of Out to Lunch, right side of an apron.

Protection: Typical Glass Rack

Climbs a sustained crimpy face past a bolt and piton. Then breaks out left under a roof heading towards fixed gear. Then heads up and gently right from bashy past more gear to a two bolt anchor.

Location: 20 feet right of Out To Lunch.

Protection: Small and mid size cams. A small (grey or purple) C3 may be used to back up the bashy above the roof.

Best route name ever. This is a beautiful piece of stone and one of the coolest routes in North Carolina. This climb requires a nice mix of power, finesse, and a bit of boldness. MUCH harder to lead than toprope, fall above the crux and its pretty much a mandatory 20 footer with slab smacking potential. The top eases off technically but pro is scant and thin.

Location: Located on the Sun Wall, down and right from the Nose area, this climb is the obvious arching right facing corner. NOTE: This is the first pitch of Psychedelic Delusions of the Digital Man done free.

Protection: Lots of RP's, small tcu's up to .75 camalot

Steep 'brows with techy gear and good holds make this a worthy outing on the far right of the Sun Wall.

1. Head up Southender and get gear high and right of the eyebrow infested wall. Drop back down and blast left over the bulge with good holds and some TCUs. Follow the path of least resistance to a large ledge with a belay on the left side.

2. Crank a bulge to a horizontal and climb great holds to a the bolt belay. Probably will be dirty so bring a brush.

Location: Right of Ruby Tuesday at Southender. One Rap with two ropes.

Protection: Standard Looking Glass stuff. Med. cams in the belay. Extra TCU's in smaller sizes helpful. Double ropes.

This route shares the first pitch with Aerospace Cadet. If I recall correctly it was done in 81/82 . It starts about 50 feet left of Out to Lunch.

1. Climb up a light-colored streak of rock. Mantel up and right over a bulge to a gear belay. Rating was around 9+.

2. Second pitch traverses up and left across orange rock to a bolt, backed up with natural gear for a belay below a multi-tiered overhanging water groove. Which is left of the Aerospace water groove. Rating was about 10-.

3. Third pitch goes straight up the overhanging tiered water groove which is juggy initially. However getting over the lip into the water groove above is cruxy. It then climbs about 50 feet on up the water groove to a natural belay. 4. Last pitch finishes up easy ground to the top.

Location: On the Sun Wall left of Out to Lunch

Protection: Standard Looking Glass Trad rack. Cams and Stainless Steel Testicles...

Much steeper than it looks; the pump is good the moves are better! The route climbs up and left through steep eyebrows with good pro and a couple of bolts to ease the mind. The crux comes after the second bolt. After these moves you head out right to the anchors of Out To Lunch.

Location: This route is on the Sun wall 150' left of Tits and Beer. It is 10' to the left of a broken crack (Out to Lunch).

Protection: 2 bolts; micro cams to .75. Rap rings at the top.

The best water groove ever. With TCU's (which they didn't have on the first ascent) the route may or may not deserve a solid R rating depending on how brittle your bones are / how lucky you are, but for all the cruxes you are a above your pro making for commiting climbing. The final crux bulge is a potential ankle breaker due to the fall onto a 65 or 70 degree slab from a vertical bulge when your feet are about 6 feet above gear.

1. (5.10d) Climb steep groove past numerous horizontals to an easy roof, then climb groove past 3 bolts to a gear belay with hand sized cams in a horizontal - The crux of this pitch is potentially the hardest single move on the climb.

2. (5.11a) Climb groove and then the face left of the groove past 3 bolts. After the 3rd bolt a small hybrid alien or probably a small TCU in a horizontal in the groove protects what used to have been a runout to the 2 bolt anchor.

3. (5.11b) Climb sustained laurel knob style stemming groove past 2 bolts until the terrain eases. Continue up to a steep bulge protected by gear in a horizontal at the base. Though you are not especially far above your gear, this bulge might be the most dangerous part of the climb due to the slick rock and potential ankle breaking / ankle spraining fall. The bomb flake is no longer there. Continue up to 2 bolt anchor to the left atop which is part of prey (the route you rappel to get down) (5.11b)

4. Continue up easy groove to top (5.8)

Location: Obvious steep water groove just left of the Odyssey

Protection: Doubles of cams to #2, one #3 including hybrids if you have them. may want some tricams too though I don't recall any key placements that only take tricams. many of the horizontals take bomber nuts too.

Not actually dangerous except for one or two heady moves at the start of P1.

1. (5.10a, 70'). Spicy moves lead to a pin and a bolt. Trend up and right on "eyebrows" to a deep horizontal 15" below a bulge system and belay on 1 to 2" gear. (or link P1 and P2).

2. (5.10, 120'). Crank straight off the belay into the bulge system with a #1 camalot for pro. Pull the bulge with a sloper or two to great incuts and great pro. Fight the pump and head for stacked pins. As the angle changes slab up to horizontal and belay with small to med gear.

3. (5.8, 100'). Climb off the belay heading up and right for bolted anchors on Irish Jig.

Rejoyce in your send of this Sun Wall Classic.

Location: 100 yds rock right of Tits and Beer. 100 Yds rock left of Southender. Start at a low angle slab look for a slight left facing corner looking for a pin and a bolt. Rap from Irish Jig with two 60m ropes.

Protection: Doubles in #1 and #2 cams are helpful. Double sets TCU's very helpful as well. Tri-cams are a great bet as well. P1 and P2 anchors are gear. Bolts at the top of P3. This is the rap station. 2 60m ropes to descend.

This route is an Odyssey, and seems right on par for what a Sun Wall route should be. This is probably one of the easier routes on this wall to start out on.

1. The Shull/Lambert topo shows a gradual rightward rising traverse to get to the crack. Don't do this. From the rack-up spot below Prey traverse straight right on a 3rd class slab until you are directly below the crack, then go straight up on eyebrows. You'll have to make a couple committing slab moves with gear at your feet, but you shouldn't hit the slab if you fall. If it seems dangerous, you're in the wrong spot.

2. Climb the obvious and well protected crack. It takes lots of hand sized pieces. When the crack ends, exit to the right (a little spicey) to a bolted belay on a sloping ramp.

3. Traverse left back to the crack from the belay. Do a hard high-step/layback to get back in the crack (harder for short folks)...this was a little scary with gear at your feet and a slab below. There are 2 hammered hexes in the crack you can use for pro once established in the crack. Clip a bolt then traverse left into the water groove. This is the crux if you're tall, I thought the move right at the start of the pitch (liebacking up to the crack) was harder than this section. Once in the water groove, climb up and then to the right to belay in an obvious scoop.

4. (5.7) Climb easy eyebrows on the right until the rope runs out. The topo calls this "5.9", but it's much easier.

Descent: Rap down Prey with 2 ropes. At the top, look for two bolts to the left of the Odyssey near two dead trees. I can't remember if it was 2 or 3 raps...it seems like 2, but I could be wrong.

Location: On the Sun Wall. Take the Sun Wall trail, branching left off of the Nose trail at the appropriate time. The trail will hit the wall at a large apron, go left through a tree tunnel up to a nice little ledge under the "raven's roost" that the hard route "Prey" climbs over. This is a nice spot to rack up, but we saw a timber rattler here once, and another large snake. Take note of where Prey is (locate a line of bolts) then Odyssey is the second water streak to the right with a long crack starting about 50' up.

Protection: Standard rack. I find extra .5's and .75's to be especially useful in the eyebrows, which there are a lot of on this route.

Great crack climbing up a steep wall. 3rd pitch may be sandbagged at 5.10d.

Location:20ft Right of Le Pump

Protection: Standard NC Rack

1. (5.10, 80') Slab up to a right leaning hand crack. Jam crack to it's end and climb face past two bolts. At the 2nd bolt, place gear out left and crux hard left to a great belay ledge with #1/#2 Camalots.

2. (80') From the belay, move back right 10 feet to a slick/featured grove. Place gear at your feet and climb straight up the groove to more gear and better holds. Continue up the groove for 20 more feet and move 10/15 feet left under the bulge into a clean groove aiming for a bolt at the top of the groove. Crux up the steep groove to the bolt and climb 40 feet to a belay under a bulge. 5.10. 80 feet. (I promise its not 150' as mentioned in the guide.)

3. (5.9, 150') Traverse right 30 feet to a deep water groove. Stem up the groove until the terrain backs off and move right 100 feet until you can belay from two bolts above Irish Jig.

Location: Third route left of Southender on the Sun wall. Start at obvious hand crack. Approach from South Face parking area or Nose area. Former is easier.

Descent: One two rope rap with 60s from P3 anchors gets you down.

Protection: Singles from 00 to 0. Doubles from .1 to #2 Camalots. Single set stoppers. Long runners or double ropes. All belays are gear except for end of P3.

A super testpiece of "brow" climbing. The crux is down low pulling a move off the "spoon" hold but things stay exciting all the way to the top as each hard move comes just before clipping the next bolt.

Beautiful moves but may need a bit of brushing off before a send can take place since its rarely climbed and the water streak may be a little dirty.

Location: Park as for the Nose. Down and right from the Nose. Immediately right of the Psych Delusions/Acid Test corner is a black water streak with bolts.

Protection: Bolts and maybe a couple of tcu's

Really, really cool water groove/face climbing. This route was originally rated 5.10R. Its still pretty R (P1) but probably PG13 with small gear.

1. (5.10, 60') Business starts pretty soon on this pitch. Not much warming up. Start directly below the obvious, beautiful black water groove. Climb directly up to a stance at a cool, horizontal crack feature. Get a good .3 or .4 C4 here and move directly left below a steep groove. Carefully climb up the groove looking for a yellow TCU out left in an eyebrow. Move up to a right leaning crack with good gear. Wander right to a stance and get more good gear. Step back left into the groove and climb hard 5.10 friction up to the belay. This part is probably PG13. Belay at the obvious horizontal w/.5 to #2 cams below a steep bulge.

2. (5.10, 140')This pitch is positively amazing. Climb the steep water groove left and then back right up in to the groove. Get a good .75 and then dance back and forth across the groove on amazing edges, knobs and slopers searching for gear. Its all there. Exit on to a lower angled slab under a bulge. Fire the bulge with good gear to a large sloping ledge and climb some of the coolest holds on the glass for 80 or 90 feet to a big horizontal belay. Belay here with .5 to #2 cams.

3. Climb up and right 40'to the bolt anchor on Irish Jig and rap with two 60s to the ground.

Location: First route left of Southender on the Sun Wall. Approach from South Face. Rap Irish Jig with two 60s from bolts. One rap will get you down. Beautiful black water groove.

A var. of Patrick Ewing. Belay at the base of the P. Ewing hand crack. Climb the hand crack to the 2nd bolt of PE. For Scotty Pippen, go straight up past the 2nd bolt to a 3rd bolt at very crisp positive crimps. Power over the bolt thru shallow bulges and good gear being careful with the "potato chip" hold. Mantle thur another bulge at the base of a final bulge. Clip the bolt and make a long reach to an eyebrow and step over on the low angled face. Climb 5.6 'brows to a good .4 C4 and traverse back left to the gear belay at the top of PE P2. Two #2 camalots are nice at the belay. Finish on PE.

Location: In between Pat Ewing and Nick Danger. Rap the Ruby Tuesday anchors with two 60s.

Protection: Two bolts and gear. 4 bolts total counting the two on PE. Gear belays.