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Boxcar Rocks

Interesting conglomerate area characterised by technical face climbing on embedded pebbles, with good trad protection to be found in cracks. A couple of routes are bolted, and most can be top-roped.

5.6 Moby Neil

Start at the flake, move up through some jugs to a ledge (5.4), then into an left facing dihedral/corner to the top.

5.5 Russell's Ruin

First splitter crack on the Main Wall. Climb the crack straight to the top.

5.11c/d Cobblestoned

Climb the thin crimpy face straight up to the top.

5.11b The Great Train Robbery

Crimpy, exciting face climbing. Look for 2 bolts on the wall to the right of Russell's Ruin.

5.10a Pebbles and Bam Bam

A near vertical face with some fun crimps and pinches. Climb the thin face straight up. 1.5m left of Curt's Crack.

5.7 Curt's Crack

Classic (for the area) crack that goes from fingers, to thin hands, to hands, then to fists and/or offwidth above the horizontal.

You can climb the fingers to hands crack to the horizontal then instead of continuing onto the fist/offwidth above, crawl (an average size human can fit) through the passage/tunnel and build an anchor.

5.10a/b Snap Crackle Plop

Climb a bouldery right facing flake to a bolt and a rest. Delicately climb the face above past 2 more bolts to a horizontal. Clip a 4th bolt and pull the small roof using nice finger pockets. Finish on the fun face past a 5th bolt to a 2 ring anchor.

5.11+ Silver Streak

Climb the crimpy delicate face to the right of Snap Crackle Plop. Use SCP's anchor to set up the toprope.

5.9 Manhattan Limited

Toprope this route using the anchors of Please Don't Pop. Follows a black water streak.

5.9 Please Don't Pop

Start on a shallow, red, right facing flake. Climb past 5 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.

5.9 The Apprentice

Classic bolted line just to the right of Please Don't Pop. Crimpy with a few, various, small features to use on the way up.

5.10a Autumn's Child

Crimpy mixed line just to the right of The Apprentice. Requires solid footwork.

5.6 Margies Curves

Fine, fun crack. Third splitter on the Main Wall.

Above the horizontal at 35 feet, you can finish up the offwidth (5.6) or climb the face to the right of the crack (5.4R), to reach a 2 ring anchor at 50 feet.

Well protected with plenty of options for feet outside the crack as well.

5.9 Headstone

Climb up the Margies Curves crack but instead of following the crack left or right, go straight up onto the face and to the top.

5.10 Vertigo

Up the face. The hard part is the first 10 feet off the ground - (could try starting close to the Margies Curves crack, or farther away right). Above that sustained 5.9. Top rope from Margies Curves anchor, though difficult to set up given the lack of gear for directionals.

5.7 Birthday Girl

Fun face climb through 2 bolts. Start in the left facing corner, move up to the horizontal and diagonal left to the first bolt; straight up from there. Hunt for the amazing finger tube above the small roof.

Two bolts for a top anchor. Note, however, that as of March 2020 the bolts did not have hangers on them.

This is the easiest bolted/mixed route here.

5.6 Keneissiology

Nice introduction to Boxcar.

Up the obvious crack. Interesting crux sequence mid-way. Fun moves below and above.

The obvious bottom-to-top crack at the far right (east) end of the wall. Just left of a narrow gully rising gently up right-ward.

No bolts at top or along the way. Trad gear for the crack. Top-Rope straightforward to set up with long slings.

Tutti 18 nodi visualizzati.

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