Vie in Riding Hood Wall

Climb the large varnished corner on the left side.

Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall.

The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti.

P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts.

P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts.

P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts.

Descent:

Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully.

Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m!

Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels.

P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.

A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.

About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.