Routes as sport in Kazakhstan

Starts 10-15 m right of Ot vinta.

P1: Small overhang followed by tricky face climbing. 6c, 27m, 14 bolts. P2: Climb the arete and then join the second pitch of Ot vinta. 8a+, 20m, 14 bolts.

8а if you completely eliminate arête on the left and climb on the face without crossing over to neighboring 7a.

Starts just right of Gnyozda, near the right end of the imposing roof.

P1: 6a+ 30m, 14 bolts. Access pitch P2: Climb the face and traverse right to the slab to avoid the roof. 7c+, 20m, 14 bolts.

The classic of the sector. Long and mostly hard. There are some drilled holds and old bolts (which are very solid).

Start is to the right of the bolts, beneath obvious small flake. Traverse to the first bolt and then continue up to the right. Spotter or stick clip is a very good idea for the first bolt. The direct start has also been climbed.

1. 6c+, 15 bolts

2. 7a, 9 bolts,

3. 6b, 9 bolts,

4. 7a+, 9 bolts,

5. 7b, 11 bolts,

6. 7c, 14 bolts,

7. 5b, 6 bolts

7b+ if climbed along the bolts, 7a if you use the arete on the left.

The best route of the grade. Easy crack start leads to pockets and then exposed climbing with safe falls.

Starts on the slab right of the wide corner, which is right of Lomovaya shel. Old bolts were replaced in October 2020.

1. Slab to vertical wall. 7+/b, 25m, 9 bolts

2. 7b, 25m, 10 bolts.

Climb the overhanging corner and then move to the right. Probably a sandbag? The first bolt is difficult to clip, so consider climbing to the big ledge on the left to clip it before starting. Originally graded 6c!

The gentle blank slab.

Big cornice.

Leftmost route.

1. 5c, 12 bolts,

2. 7b, 17 bolts,

3. 6b, 13 bolts,

4. 6c, 14 bolts,

5. Project, 17 bolts,

6. 6c+, 13 bolts,

7. 6a, 6 bolts.

Easy climbing up a crack followed by a pull over the bulge and a delicate face at the top. Some old, but solid bolts.

Excellent climbing on small crimps.

7b if you climb directly over the overlap. Around 6b if you climb the crack.

Sustained climbing on nice pockets and crimps.

Start a few metres right of Mescalito and follow bolts to the open-book corner.

1. 6b, 9 bolts,

2. 7a+, 12 bolts,

3. 6c, 14 bolts,

4. 7a+, 15 bolts,

5. 6a, 10 bolts,

6. 6b, 15 bolts,

7. 5a, 10 bolts

1. Climb the slab. 6c, 30m, 10 bolts

2. Vertical wall and slabs 7a/+, 25m, 9 bolts.

Starts on a gentle slab 10-15m right of Surpriz.

Sustained crux on crimps followed by easier climbing to the top.

1. 6a+, 7 bolts,

2. 7a, 9 bolts

The first bolted route right of Shel s ptitsami.

P1: 6b, 23m, 10 bolts. P2: 7a, 25m, 13 bolts. Beware of potential ledge fall in the middle of this pitch.

The rooflet is the crux.

The crag classic, with interesting moves on the first pitch (7a) and adventurous, sparsely bolted, loose second pitch (6a)

Fun moves through the overlap. There is a hollow-sounding block at the top which seems stable.

Interesting crux.

Another partially bolted sport route, requiring occasional trad gear in some places.

1. 6b+, 8 bolts,

2. 6a, 7 bolts,

3. 6b+, 4 bolts,

4. 5c, 5 bolts,

5. 6b+, 9 bolts,

6. 6c, 9 bolts,

7. 7a, 8 bolts.

1. 6b+, 14 bolts,

2. 5b, 4 bolts,

3. 6a+, 7 bolts,

4. 6b+, 8 bolts,

5. 7a, 9 bolts,

6. 7a, 10 bolts.

1. 5c, 6 bolts

2. 6c+, 10 bolts

The corner. First bolts are right of the corner.

Steep start followed by delicate slab.

Starts just right of Poezd. Slippery corner to overlap followed by easier climbing.

The rightmost bolted line. Spike belay on top of the ridge. Be careful of rope length when descending.

The first bolted line. Starts a underneath the corner/flake feature and finishes 2/3 of the way up the cliff.

1. 5b, 7 bolts,

2. 6c. 11 bolts

1. 6a, 6 bolts,

2. 6c, 9 bolts - shared 2nd pitch with Kukol'nik

1. 6a, 7 bolts,

2. 6c, 9 bolts

Starts a few metres right of Sila bezmolviya.

P1: 6a, 27m, 19 bolts. P2: Hard start followed by nice corner. 6c, 25m, 12 bolts.

Just left of Razminka.

One or two hard moves to test your finger strength. For the grade, avoid the large pocket, and start on the right.

Common start with Бесимся

Starts on the ledge right of Howl.

Starts on the ledge. Wise to clip the second bolt from the ground if you can.

6c if you climb left of the bolts. Hasn't been climbed along the bolts yet.

Starts on the small boulder.

For the send you need to tackle the slab at the top rather than wussing out.

Follow the bolted line for intricate moves

Starts just above a boulder about 10-15m right of Cherez karniz. Climb right of the bolts for 6c, left for 6b.

Stay right of the overlap/flake for the grade.

1. 5с, 7 bolts,

2. 6b+, 10 bolts

Starts in the dihedral right of Skazki o sile.

P1: Climb Dihedral to ledge (use a long draw on the first bolt). 6b+, 25m 11 bolts. P2: Continue to top. 6b, 20m, 11 bolts.

5c if you stop at the first set of anchors (after 8 bolts).

Clip the first two draws by walking up the ledge a little.

The overhanging crack feature just right of Sinyaya Gusenitsa.

The chimney.

Starts on the ledge.

Starts on the ledge.

Starts on the larger boulder.