Showing all 14 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
19 | ★ Sausage Of The Century
Bouldery start then move rightwards into the line. Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall. FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981 | 12m | |||
21 | ★ Oogie Boogie
A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century. FA: Mark Barnett & Rod Young, 1981 | 10m | |||
22 | Boogie Boogie
A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2 Nov 2015 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ Limp
In the same vein as Je Suis Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star. Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff). FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 7 Oct 2015 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ The Wizard of Id
Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge. FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Popeye
Start in V corner, soon moving left until under large jammed blocks. Pull through the bulge, then up vertical seam, then step up and left. Soon after, traverse left to the ledge with rap station. FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Asteroids
Starts at the same corner as for Popeye, then steps up and right to a higher V-corner. Pass the bulge using the big pockets, then higher to where the angle eases. From here you can either traverse far left (to 'The Wizard of Id' abseil station), or veer right up the dirty weakness (to 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' abseil station). FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Vogon Destructor Fleet
Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct 2015 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Hyperspace Bypass
Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 2015 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Hyperspace
Shallow corner then R through bulges. Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981 | 20m | |||
Letting Go (variant)
The orange flake start, bolted by peter stebbins. Doubtful it's been done. | 20m, 1 | ||||
26 | ★★ Letting Go
The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes. Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 15m, 1 | |||
25 | ★ Failing New Romantic
The original start climbed a tree, which has since fallen down. Following this you needed to batman to a the bolt and start at the flake. An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground was later bolted and climbed. Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Climb the edges up the face to the R, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade. FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982 FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Hywel Rowlands, 2018 | 15m, 2 | |||
28 | ★ Slime Time
Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach. Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires. FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982 | 15m, 2 |
Showing all 14 routes.