Showing all 65 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Western Crags Flower Power Block | |||||
14 | ★ Cornflake
Because it‘s good in the morning? The flake towards the right end of the yellow face. Climb the flake then mantle shelf to gain the corner. Up this to the top. FA: 1989 | 15m | |||
17 | Light Of Day
Start about 1m right of left edge of the yellow wall. Go straight the line of least resistance. Top roped FA. FA: 1989 | 15m | |||
7 | Continuar Sonriendo
On the grey face near where the boulders form a cave. Go up the short obvious corner, then walk up the easy slab and onto the right hand edge of the face by which you gain the summit. FA: 1989 | 22m | |||
17 | House Of Cards
Start 4m L of Continuar Sonriendo. Off boulder and straight up face, finishing L of the thin shallow crack. FA: Steven Barnett & Anthony Wregg, 1991 | 20m | |||
15 | One Flake, No Chips
Start as for House of Cards. Step L and climb the flake leading diagonally L. Jug out to the top. FA: Steve Barnett & Anthony Wregg, 1991 | 18m | |||
Western Crags Shadow Buttress | |||||
6 | Pick a Number
Start at the obvious cleft at the left end. Bridge up and follow the weakness through to the top. FA: 1985 | 25m | |||
6 | Super 66
Start as for Shadow Streak. Go left up the easy ramp and through the overhang to the top. FA: 1985 | 28m | |||
13 | Shadow Streak
Start 8m left of Sunlight And Shadow. Up the crack to the overhangs. Step right and follow the black streak to the top. FA: 1985 | 25m | |||
15 | This Is Not Funny
In the middle of the face at the initials. The obvious line. FA: 1985 | 30m | |||
12 | This Is Not Funny Variant Start
Start 3m right of the initials. Up the slab and over the overhang to the orange scoop. Walk left to finish up the regular route. FA: 1985 | ||||
15 | Sunlight and Shadow
Start 1m left of This is Not Funny. Move more or less straight up the wall to the top. Possibly under-graded. FA: 1985 | 30m | |||
12 | Superjug
As for THIS IS NOT FUNNY VARIANT START. Go right up the jugs to a ledge. Move 2m R then straight up. FA: 1985 | 20m | |||
Western Crags Sunstroke Area | |||||
6 | V.F.L.
Val's First Lead. The obvious narrow chimney on the north facing wall of the cliff. FA: Val Cheffings & Chris Boylen, 1991 | 15m | |||
14 | Boys Of Summer
Prominent nose at the very L end of the crag. Up the face and through the bulge at the top. FA: 1986 | 18m | |||
8 | Blue Light
The corner line L of the prominent chimney. | 18m | |||
8 | Coccyx Corner
The easy corner immediately R of the narrow chimney, moving L at the top for an easy exit. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Bums Rush
Most attractive line on the crag - vertical crack / seam 1m R of Coccyx Corner. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
13 | Turn The Other Cheek
The next line 3m R of Bums Rush. Keep in the line at the top. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
15 | Scorched Cheeks
| 18m | |||
18 | Twenty Dollar Brick
L of Sunstroke, line of overhangs rise from R to top L. This climb takes the middle of the three breaks in the overhangs. Originally climbed by finishing up the twin shallow corners on the terrace above (add 10m). FA: 1986 | 18m | |||
4 | High Rise Dunnies
Start at the orange and grey rock just L of Sunstroke at the 'cheating stones'. Head diagonally L finishing as for Coccyx Corner. FA: 1988 | 23m | |||
18 | ★ Sunstroke
Roof system with L leading diagonal. Good unlikely moves, follow the line all the way. Finishing easily - or surmount final roof. FA: 1985 | 20m | |||
13 | Summa's A Bumma
At the R end of cliff, R of Sunstroke, straight up to arete, then diagonally L and across the face immediately above lip of the overhang. FA: 1985 | 25m | |||
13 | Summa's A Bumma Direct
Spectacular. The arete, then up and over the square roof. FA: 1985 | 17m | |||
19 | ★ Angry Ant
Small north facing steep wall on terrace opposite Summa's a Bummer. X cracks on left side of wall. FA: Hywel Rowlands, 2014 | 12m | |||
10 | Gypsy
2m right of the west buttress’s left arete. FA: Hywel Rowlands | 22m | |||
Western Crags Pigs in Space Buttress | |||||
14 | Cheval
A few m L of Quantum Sufficit is small black hole in the rock. Start 1m R of this and go straight up to the ledge. Climb the overhang at the arete and up. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
12 | Quantum Sufficit
Up the corner / arete 3m L of Pigs in Space, to finish up wall just left of that climb. FA: 1985 | 20m | |||
13 | Pigs in Space
Start in the middle of the face. Line leading to the L end of the square cut roof and up the corner. FA: 1985 | 20m | |||
16 | The Righteous Remnant
3m R of Pigs in Space. Climb to the RHS of the square roof, and up. FA: 1985 | 20m | |||
16 | Human Sacrifice
1m R of TRR. Up to the L leaning orange roof, up this to break out R onto the delicate face, then back L. FA: 1985 | 20m | |||
Western Crags Main West Face | |||||
20 | Dereks Dyno
First pitch is sustained quality at about 16. However, the second pitch is 20+ depending on your height (can be bypassed). Start at the grey arete immediately right of the 'hole' in the cliff. 1) 30m. Straight up to large ledge below overhangs. 2) 10m. Lunge or boulder straight up to jugs on lip of roof and continue to top. FA: Derek Visser, Wayne Maher & Heather Philips, 1985 | 40m | |||
13 | Cheap And Nasty
Supposedly this climb is on an outcrop above Pigs in Space buttress, below the main wall (more or less between DD and EP. Takes the obvious corner line. FA: 1985 | 15m | |||
13 | Monkey Grip
The short corner then the easy angled corner right of DD. (Could be a repeat of Cheap and Nasty). FA: 1986 | 20m | |||
7 | Election Promise
“Guarantees not to tax you, but it‘s a bit suss". Back on the main cliff, the large flake / chimney about one third of the way along the wall. FA: 1985 | 44m | |||
12 | Brass Bound Buggery Box
Enjoyable airy climbing. Starts below a crack which runs up to a big roof. 1) 35m. Climb the first overhang directly to the crack and follow it to the overlap. Traverse up L under the overlap to a recessed corner. Up the arete and traverse L under the roof to a small ledge. 2) 10m. Move left and straight up. FA: 1985 | 45m | |||
12 | ★ Hickory Handled Hogshit Hamper
Excellent value. Surprisingly easy for such steep rock. Starts as for BBBB. Climb the crack all the way to the big roof, step L and straight up. FA: 1985 | 40m | |||
7 | Sparklet
Starts from the RH end of the long overlap - scramble up slab to a ledge to start. Move L above the overlap and climb the corner until it breaks up. Move L above roof, and up. FA: 1985 | 23m | |||
Western Crags North Western Outcrop | |||||
16 | Digit Removal
The corner / slab bordering the L side of the sandy overhangs. FA: 1985 | 15m | |||
Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers | |||||
8 | Rostislav
Start: 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct on the W facing part of the buttress. Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off. FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray & Geoff Brian, 2004 | 14m | |||
12 | Dolgoruki Direct
Start at the edge of the rib at the foot of the main buttress. 1) 43m. Ascend the rib to a ledge at 4m, up overhanging chimney then follow the edge of the rib to the obvious overhang. 2) 15m. Climb through the slight break in the overhang (one of those height dependent gradings - you have been warned). Immediately above the lip traverse R for 3m to the rib then continue vertically to a large ledge. 3) 36m. Keeping as close to the edge of the rib as possible, but actually on the R wall, continue on to the summit and glory. FA: 1968 | 94m | |||
22 | Mandela
On the lowest tier of the orange wall. Steep flake / crack in the middle of the wall. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985 | 35m | |||
21 | Where The Green Ants Dream
The RH crack above, and to the L of Mandela. Good holds on deceptively steep face. FA: 1985 FFA: Louise Shepherd, 1986 | 30m | |||
23 R | Panic Stations
Starts a few m left of WTGAD and climbs the face via the flakes (with care) to the top. Poor rock and pro. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1989 | 20m | |||
20 | Game Plan
Start behind (now burnt) pine trees at the far L end of the 3rd tier (at the head of a minor gully). Up R to a blunt arete and past a bolt to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1988 | 15m | |||
15 | Technique
The obvious wide, leaning, corner crack. FA: Wayne Maher, 1985 | 15m | |||
18 | Radio Tehran
Starts from the LH end of the main ledge (6m R of the wide crack). Up wall trending L then up to top. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1988 | 15m | |||
13 | Cheek To Cheek
L leading line / corners at the R end of the 3rd Terrace - more or less directly above WTGAD. Can also be more easily approached by climbing the first 2 pitches of DD and up this, rather than traversing off R. FA: Wayne Maher, 1985 | 15m | |||
Interpretation Wall | |||||
17 | Differing view
Nothing to write home about, but nice trad / inconsistent crack line just L of roof/cave. Bolts on Pulled Out to start. FA: Goshen Watts, 2017 | 12m | |||
Eastern Walls | |||||
20 | Batmans Revenge
Looks totally worthless, but has an intense section of climbing that's much better than it looks. Up easy ramp just L of chimney, awkward moves around roof into thin slanting crack, which is followed to easier ground. Quite independent of KOFTSW until the last 10m or so. FA: Goshen Watts & Riley Nicholson, 29 Jul 2017 | 30m | |||
22 | Kiss Of The Spider Woman
Crack-line in the recess left of Matt's Corner, start easily up into deep chimney. Then short crack "steeping requires a bit of effort, but it is worth it". FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986 | 30m | |||
18 | No Rest Fot The Wicked
Climb the line 5m L of WR (8m L of major chimney / corner line) and about 15m R of the projects on the blank wall. Finish up R. FA: 1985 | 15m | |||
21 | Weenie Roast
This is the L curving crack in the orange wall 3m L of the corner / chimney line. Follow the line to the ridge. FA: 1985 FFA: 1986 | 15m | |||
19 | Angel Dust
Finger / corner crack immediately on the R side of the chimney corner. FA: 1985 | 29m | |||
22 | Rainbow Warrior
Line about 3-4 R of DO. Awkward moves past the two main ledges to a bolt runner higher up. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986 | 15m | |||
20 | Take Me To Cuba
Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top. | 10m | |||
25 | Beyond Dave's Black Stump
10m L of BTBB on the same wall. Desperate climbing with spaced pro. FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986 | 20m | |||
20 | Beyond The Black Stump
On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall. FA: Louise Shephard, 1986 | 23m | |||
17 | ★ Bright Spark
Good, but slightly contrived climbing on an independent grey buttress below and N of the Eastern Walls. Up short diagonal crack, then up the nice grey wall, keeping to the L for the best climbing. At the top is a nice surprise mini 2nd pitch (and topping out is a better way to descend). FA: Goshen Watts & Riley Nicholson, 29 Jul 2017 | 28m, 2 | |||
Emu Crag | |||||
21 | Jumping Spider
At undercut rounded northwest arête, on the terrace. | 10m | |||
16 | Lizards Like Black Eggs
| 17m | |||
23 | Sly Boots
| 20m | |||
13 | Red Herring
| 20m | |||
22 | How Much Can A Koala Bear?
| 15m | |||
14 | Wild Goose Chase
| 16m |
Showing all 65 routes.