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Routes as trad in Iskra Crag

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Showing all 65 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Western Crags Flower Power Block
14 Cornflake

Because it‘s good in the morning? The flake towards the right end of the yellow face. Climb the flake then mantle shelf to gain the corner. Up this to the top.

FA: 1989

Trad 15m
17 Light Of Day

Start about 1m right of left edge of the yellow wall. Go straight the line of least resistance. Top roped FA.

FA: 1989

Trad 15m
7 Continuar Sonriendo

On the grey face near where the boulders form a cave. Go up the short obvious corner, then walk up the easy slab and onto the right hand edge of the face by which you gain the summit.

FA: 1989

Trad 22m
17 House Of Cards

Start 4m L of Continuar Sonriendo. Off boulder and straight up face, finishing L of the thin shallow crack.

FA: Steven Barnett & Anthony Wregg, 1991

Trad 20m
15 One Flake, No Chips

Start as for House of Cards. Step L and climb the flake leading diagonally L. Jug out to the top.

FA: Steve Barnett & Anthony Wregg, 1991

Trad 18m
Western Crags Shadow Buttress
6 Pick a Number

Start at the obvious cleft at the left end. Bridge up and follow the weakness through to the top.

FA: 1985

Trad 25m
6 Super 66

Start as for Shadow Streak. Go left up the easy ramp and through the overhang to the top.

FA: 1985

Trad 28m
13 Shadow Streak

Start 8m left of Sunlight And Shadow. Up the crack to the overhangs. Step right and follow the black streak to the top.

FA: 1985

Trad 25m
15 This Is Not Funny

In the middle of the face at the initials. The obvious line.

FA: 1985

Trad 30m
12 This Is Not Funny Variant Start

Start 3m right of the initials. Up the slab and over the overhang to the orange scoop. Walk left to finish up the regular route.

FA: 1985

Trad
15 Sunlight and Shadow

Start 1m left of This is Not Funny. Move more or less straight up the wall to the top. Possibly under-graded.

FA: 1985

Trad 30m
12 Superjug

As for THIS IS NOT FUNNY VARIANT START. Go right up the jugs to a ledge. Move 2m R then straight up.

FA: 1985

Trad 20m
Western Crags Sunstroke Area
6 V.F.L.

Val's First Lead. The obvious narrow chimney on the north facing wall of the cliff.

FA: Val Cheffings & Chris Boylen, 1991

Trad 15m
14 Boys Of Summer

Prominent nose at the very L end of the crag. Up the face and through the bulge at the top.

FA: 1986

Trad 18m
8 Blue Light

The corner line L of the prominent chimney.

Trad 18m
8 Coccyx Corner

The easy corner immediately R of the narrow chimney, moving L at the top for an easy exit.

FA: 1985

Trad 18m
14 Bums Rush

Most attractive line on the crag - vertical crack / seam 1m R of Coccyx Corner.

FA: 1985

Trad 18m
13 Turn The Other Cheek

The next line 3m R of Bums Rush. Keep in the line at the top.

FA: 1985

Trad 18m
15 Scorched Cheeks
Trad 18m
18 Twenty Dollar Brick

L of Sunstroke, line of overhangs rise from R to top L. This climb takes the middle of the three breaks in the overhangs. Originally climbed by finishing up the twin shallow corners on the terrace above (add 10m).

FA: 1986

Trad 18m
4 High Rise Dunnies

Start at the orange and grey rock just L of Sunstroke at the 'cheating stones'. Head diagonally L finishing as for Coccyx Corner.

FA: 1988

Trad 23m
18 Sunstroke

Roof system with L leading diagonal. Good unlikely moves, follow the line all the way. Finishing easily - or surmount final roof.

FA: 1985

Trad 20m
13 Summa's A Bumma

At the R end of cliff, R of Sunstroke, straight up to arete, then diagonally L and across the face immediately above lip of the overhang.

FA: 1985

Trad 25m
13 Summa's A Bumma Direct

Spectacular. The arete, then up and over the square roof.

FA: 1985

Trad 17m
19 Angry Ant

Small north facing steep wall on terrace opposite Summa's a Bummer. X cracks on left side of wall.

FA: Hywel Rowlands, 2014

Trad 12m
10 Gypsy

2m right of the west buttress’s left arete.

Trad 22m
Western Crags Pigs in Space Buttress
14 Cheval

A few m L of Quantum Sufficit is small black hole in the rock. Start 1m R of this and go straight up to the ledge. Climb the overhang at the arete and up.

FA: 1985

Trad 18m
12 Quantum Sufficit

Up the corner / arete 3m L of Pigs in Space, to finish up wall just left of that climb.

FA: 1985

Trad 20m
13 Pigs in Space

Start in the middle of the face. Line leading to the L end of the square cut roof and up the corner.

FA: 1985

Trad 20m
16 The Righteous Remnant

3m R of Pigs in Space. Climb to the RHS of the square roof, and up.

FA: 1985

Trad 20m
16 Human Sacrifice

1m R of TRR. Up to the L leaning orange roof, up this to break out R onto the delicate face, then back L.

FA: 1985

Trad 20m
Western Crags Main West Face
20 Dereks Dyno

First pitch is sustained quality at about 16. However, the second pitch is 20+ depending on your height (can be bypassed). Start at the grey arete immediately right of the 'hole' in the cliff. 1) 30m. Straight up to large ledge below overhangs. 2) 10m. Lunge or boulder straight up to jugs on lip of roof and continue to top.

FA: Derek Visser, Wayne Maher & Heather Philips, 1985

Trad 40m
13 Cheap And Nasty

Supposedly this climb is on an outcrop above Pigs in Space buttress, below the main wall (more or less between DD and EP. Takes the obvious corner line.

FA: 1985

Trad 15m
13 Monkey Grip

The short corner then the easy angled corner right of DD. (Could be a repeat of Cheap and Nasty).

FA: 1986

Trad 20m
7 Election Promise

“Guarantees not to tax you, but it‘s a bit suss". Back on the main cliff, the large flake / chimney about one third of the way along the wall.

FA: 1985

Trad 44m
12 Brass Bound Buggery Box

Enjoyable airy climbing. Starts below a crack which runs up to a big roof. 1) 35m. Climb the first overhang directly to the crack and follow it to the overlap. Traverse up L under the overlap to a recessed corner. Up the arete and traverse L under the roof to a small ledge. 2) 10m. Move left and straight up.

FA: 1985

Trad 45m
12 Hickory Handled Hogshit Hamper

Excellent value. Surprisingly easy for such steep rock. Starts as for BBBB. Climb the crack all the way to the big roof, step L and straight up.

FA: 1985

Trad 40m
7 Sparklet

Starts from the RH end of the long overlap - scramble up slab to a ledge to start. Move L above the overlap and climb the corner until it breaks up. Move L above roof, and up.

FA: 1985

Trad 23m
Western Crags North Western Outcrop
16 Digit Removal

The corner / slab bordering the L side of the sandy overhangs.

FA: 1985

Trad 15m
Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers
8 Rostislav

Start: 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct on the W facing part of the buttress. Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off.

FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray & Geoff Brian, 2004

Trad 14m
12 Dolgoruki Direct

Start at the edge of the rib at the foot of the main buttress. 1) 43m. Ascend the rib to a ledge at 4m, up overhanging chimney then follow the edge of the rib to the obvious overhang. 2) 15m. Climb through the slight break in the overhang (one of those height dependent gradings - you have been warned). Immediately above the lip traverse R for 3m to the rib then continue vertically to a large ledge. 3) 36m. Keeping as close to the edge of the rib as possible, but actually on the R wall, continue on to the summit and glory.

FA: 1968

Trad 94m
22 Mandela

On the lowest tier of the orange wall. Steep flake / crack in the middle of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985

Trad 35m
21 Where The Green Ants Dream

The RH crack above, and to the L of Mandela. Good holds on deceptively steep face.

FA: 1985

FFA: Louise Shepherd, 1986

Trad 30m
23 R Panic Stations

Starts a few m left of WTGAD and climbs the face via the flakes (with care) to the top. Poor rock and pro.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1989

Trad 20m
20 Game Plan

Start behind (now burnt) pine trees at the far L end of the 3rd tier (at the head of a minor gully). Up R to a blunt arete and past a bolt to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1988

Trad 15m
15 Technique

The obvious wide, leaning, corner crack.

FA: Wayne Maher, 1985

Trad 15m
18 Radio Tehran

Starts from the LH end of the main ledge (6m R of the wide crack). Up wall trending L then up to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1988

Trad 15m
13 Cheek To Cheek

L leading line / corners at the R end of the 3rd Terrace - more or less directly above WTGAD. Can also be more easily approached by climbing the first 2 pitches of DD and up this, rather than traversing off R.

FA: Wayne Maher, 1985

Trad 15m
Interpretation Wall
17 Differing view

Nothing to write home about, but nice trad / inconsistent crack line just L of roof/cave. Bolts on Pulled Out to start.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2017

Trad 12m
Eastern Walls
20 Batmans Revenge

Looks totally worthless, but has an intense section of climbing that's much better than it looks. Up easy ramp just L of chimney, awkward moves around roof into thin slanting crack, which is followed to easier ground. Quite independent of KOFTSW until the last 10m or so.

FA: Goshen Watts & Riley Nicholson, 29 Jul 2017

Trad 30m
22 Kiss Of The Spider Woman

Crack-line in the recess left of Matt's Corner, start easily up into deep chimney. Then short crack "steeping requires a bit of effort, but it is worth it".

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986

Trad 30m
18 No Rest Fot The Wicked

Climb the line 5m L of WR (8m L of major chimney / corner line) and about 15m R of the projects on the blank wall. Finish up R.

FA: 1985

Trad 15m
21 Weenie Roast

This is the L curving crack in the orange wall 3m L of the corner / chimney line. Follow the line to the ridge.

FA: 1985

FFA: 1986

Trad 15m
19 Angel Dust

Finger / corner crack immediately on the R side of the chimney corner.

FA: 1985

Trad 29m
22 Rainbow Warrior

Line about 3-4 R of DO. Awkward moves past the two main ledges to a bolt runner higher up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986

Trad 15m
20 Take Me To Cuba

Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top.

Trad 10m
25 Beyond Dave's Black Stump

10m L of BTBB on the same wall. Desperate climbing with spaced pro.

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

Trad 20m
20 Beyond The Black Stump

On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall.

FA: Louise Shephard, 1986

Trad 23m
17 Bright Spark

Good, but slightly contrived climbing on an independent grey buttress below and N of the Eastern Walls. Up short diagonal crack, then up the nice grey wall, keeping to the L for the best climbing. At the top is a nice surprise mini 2nd pitch (and topping out is a better way to descend).

FA: Goshen Watts & Riley Nicholson, 29 Jul 2017

Trad 28m, 2
Emu Crag
21 Jumping Spider

At undercut rounded northwest arête, on the terrace.

Trad 10m
16 Lizards Like Black Eggs
Trad 17m
23 Sly Boots
Trad 20m
13 Red Herring
Trad 20m
22 How Much Can A Koala Bear?
Trad 15m
14 Wild Goose Chase
Trad 16m

Showing all 65 routes.

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