Routes as trad in North Grampians

The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies.

Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks.

Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top.

6m right of Automatic Runway. Through the overhang and up the corner. Marke dby high white square.

Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.

Easy start of the climb to smoothish round overhang, climb directly up, placing climb just left of Casper. Placements are scarce til high so the risk of a deck fall is high temporarily. Was originally done with only nuts and slings, hence the name. The last few metres are made a lot less risky with cams, but it's also an easy top out.

The hardest route here. Climb up just right of south arête to thin crack.

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête.

Don't know the original name.

Start left of the cave and climb over it to the right. Get into the overhanging bit and get through it using jugs on the left. Topping out is a bit tricky.

Getting full value from limited resources! Circumnavigate the outcrop starting up Automatic Runway and following the break at mid-height going anticlockwise to the south arête (belay possible here) and continuing around to the start. Going clockwise looks feasible too and may be better.

Route with single FH right of Spirits in the Sky.

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

Easy line just left of Crimps of Doom, starts under flake feature a few metres left of arete. Straight up to prominent flake then up on jugs, finishing at highest point on wall. Good pro.

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top.

Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face.

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique.

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

The right hand rib of the chimney.

A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.

A contrived left varient of 'Fot as Huck'. Start slightly left of 'Fot as Huck'. Up to thread then stick left as you climb the jugs out to the left avoiding the bolted line. Watch for explodo jugs.

Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from 'Sunraysia'. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay.

Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of 'Tatiana'. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay.

Crack between the two sport routes to 10am anchor. Fiddly.

Sandy grey face and the arête left of Cherub. Head straight up over multiple horizontal breaks skipping the second pitch to finish at Cherub's anchor. Could do with a retro/ rename, any takers?

Crack addiction. Follow the major splitter to the convenient anchor above WtB. Shuffle some cams not larger than a #4.

Finger crack 15m r of Sega, shares anchor with ROC.

A singular brain cell. Classic R facing dihedral. Starts from the ledge and goes direct up brilliant finger and hand jams, now meticulously scrubbed for your consumption! Worth bringing in a single rack of cams and some wires for. Belay/ lower from Beefeater anchor or top rope it after.

You'd have to be. In the cool cave R of Monosynaptic is a large suspect broken flake. Climb the R side beginning at an undercling before traversing left to the other side, horizontal at feet. Continue up to the big ledge to belay off the flat boulder. Walk to FPA anchors to descend.

Scramble to the top of the big boulder to access the left of the two big cracks. Climb up to the good belay ledge on the right. Descend via TFC lower offs, may need to stay roped up to access them.

Nice finger jamming with good pro. Follow the small crack left of the bolted route. Rap off TFG anchor.

The crack between the two ring bolted routes, finishing at SG101 anchor.

And the Lord said thou shalt install only the finest grade of steel. Starts off the top of the block.

. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach).

Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

Hanging start to gain crack and up.

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

1m. right of Free Hanging. Take shallow cracks right of FH's to pocket, move to orange rock and straight up, finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

About 2m. left of FH. Obvious corner line with over hang. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner, then the line up the arête.

In memory of my Mother who passed late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Start as for H.V., traverse right into crack past bolt plate. Follow crack line into roof, move left under roof following crack to top

The corner starting at the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

Single FH with red tag.

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

The big trench that cuts across the wall- uses many weird techniques, doesn't need any gear bigger than a number 3 Camalot Finishes at the anchors for Deborah Triangle around the corner.

A good line done in cold, wet conditions. Find the major diagonal line in the gully on the north face of the outcrop. Traverse right across gentle slab to major corner. Up corner to top of block. Left below overhang then corner to next overhang. Go left to arete and up airily.

More intimidating than the grade suggests. Start as for 'Olive of My Eye'.

1. 35m (10) Traverse right across slab and pull around right arete.

2. 25m (10) Take attractive left line.

Good old-fashioned stuff, negotiating a series of substantial overhangs. Take some extra-large gear.

1. 40m (19) Major crack just left of NW arete of peak to exit right around final roof. Up 3m to cave.

2. 50m (19) Straight up easily, then veer up right to right of two major lines in headwall and finish up this.

Take cams to #4.

1. 25m (19) (crux) Slabby rib immediately R of 'Desperate Measures', then short, vertical crack to sloping, horizontal traverse-line (save me from non-horizontal traverse!) heading R between two roofs. R on this (? traverse, presumably) to nose.

2. 40m (-) Juggy NW arete of peak to belay immediatley L of enormous ceiling.

3. 45m (-) Straight up steep wall easing to falcons' cave. easy ramp up R to NW arete. Easily up arete.

This atmospheric climb finishes up a landmark notch in the summit ceilings R of exit gully of The 'Sermon'. At the foot of the west face, right of The 'Sermon' is a long ceiling. The base of the cliff then drops down right to where there is another long ceiling. Between these two ceilings is a short, broken, L-facing corner. Start here (where are topos when you need them?) 1. 45m Up and right then straight up to grassy terrace. Up this (up a terrace?) to foot of wall above two blocks on grass. 2. 40m 'Small', right-facing corner crack. Step up left and climb up and left on mossy face, then straight up to ledge. Short walls lead to narrow ledge below huge overhanging wall. Move left on ledge to guano-stained corner. 3. 20m (crux) Take seam, moving right and up under ceilings to exposed stance in notch. 4. 30m The line above.

The only line at anything like the grade through bands of overhangs right of 'The Narrow Door'. Exposed. Start at foot of R side of main (W) face, right of ND. 1. 50m Ramp then broken ground to ledge 4m below small but prominent guano-stained cave (landmark). 2. 30m Step up L on to lip of overhang, then traverse up and left above ceiling until you can go steeply up to diagonal break leading L to ledge almost at L arete. 3. 40m (crux) "The only way out" appears to be the seam above, which leads to steep flake-crack then easy ground.

Climb out across the step in the roof about 15m left of 'The Volcano Lover' and pull around lip. Traverse left across the juggy wall then finish up crack.

Juggy looking line 8m left of 'Lake Wobegon'.

Good. Would be better if the third bolt was moved so the cam isn't needed.

Start: Start below turret towards left side of face 3m left of 'Harnessing Peacocks'.

This starts below the large roof left of Venus.

1. 15m Head up the corner to the roof, then head right to belay.

2. 30m Climb diagonally left to the corner-line above the roof then climb this and the steepenings to the top.

1. 15m Start 1m left of Venus. Head diagonally left up the wall to a stance on the left arete that is level with the huge ceiling on the left, and belay as for Elle’s Belles.

2. 45m (Crux) Head up the line above to an overhang past the bulge. Traverse right under this, then go back diagonally left above it to a position 3m below the summit ceiling and join Elle’s Belles at the top.

This starts just left of the corner that is around left of Sweet Sue. Go up the line that heads to a break in the roof at the very top. Finish up the exposed, but easy, chimney.

Climb the line 1m left of the arete between Venus and Sweet Sue.

This starts 6m right of Keith’s Route and 2m left of Sweet Sue. Head up the overhanging crack until a ledge is reached, step left and climb the wall above until it’s necessary to move onto the arete, then continue up.

Start at Hobson Undertakers. On the right of the cubic block is a crack. Climb it then go up the centre of the face above. Take plenty of small wires for protection.

This is the corner capped with a broken orange roof at two thirds height.

1. 30m Climb the corner until able to go right 10m to the next line.

2. 15m Head up to the top.

Head up the face to the left of Strumpet.

This is the prominent corner 30m right of Sweet Sue. Bridge up the corner to the top, go up the chimney, and then climb the right-hand line to finish.